Today, I came accross a 14inch hitachi TV, thrown in the trash. As usual, i browsed through the garbage till I found something nice! (Mind you, Dr.Slump found a perfectly working n64 with games and a megadrive in his trash the other day) Anyway, the TV is quite old. I love it! In its bum, it has RF for antenna, Headphone jack, and a special DIN RGB connector (and the appropriate button to switch modes between TV and RGB). for the kids who don't know what a DIN connector is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_connector for the rest of the old-timers, please let me in on some info, as I myself have never made use of an RGB din. I m not sure, but I think that old computers, including Mac's used the RGB DIN connector. What species of RGB lies in it though? Is it your standard YCrCp RGB? Does it support progressive scan?(I highly doubt it) or is it more like a Euroscart signal RGB? Please give me detailed info and pin-out information, so I can determine what to do with the TV/monitor. Ideally, I d like to hook up some old arcade machine to it. I have no arcade installation experience whatsoever though! Looking forward to your ideas, advice, and any comments
How many pins are there? http://www.epanorama.net/circuits/vga2tv/rgb_pinouts.html I'd guess it's "DIN 45326". I have a monitor of this type although it doesn't accept C-sync over H-sync since it was originally intended for digital RGB computer use, perhaps yours will though.
nope, that's not it. mine is a 7 pin,and it's labelled as RGB MONITOR. it's NOT this as the pins are "flat" not circular
Are you sure the pins aren't round? The female connector often looks like it has flat holes like in this diagram: My monitor also has flat holes, but it does have an 8 pin connector. I have never seen a DIN-7 used for RGB input. Perhaps yours is missing pin 8 because it expects C-sync on the (missing?) DE-9 adapter.
C-sync is usually provided over H-sync if used; if pin 8 is missing which is V-sync, perhaps it must use C-sync. EVery time I've seen a DIN input, it comes with a cable which adapts it to a DE or DB male connector for connecting to computer equipment.
The monitor I have is presumably intended for CGA use only, I also found it trashed but the adapter cable was there too. It adapts the "DIN 45326" standard to the "Philips CM8833-II" DE-9 one, that's what I'd look into first since it was apparently so prevalent.
i could take pictures of the dirty box, but I guess I m just lazy. Oddly, although a standard TV at first glance, the label reads: HITACHI INSTAVISION , RGB COMPUTER DISPLAY. what an amazing hybrid. I ve been excited all day long! They sure don't make 'em like they use to I wonder if this little miracle is multi-system. Hmm.. No chance of hooking up anything current on it, since it only does RF and this obsolete RGB format. Calpis, arcade PCBs like Mortal Kombat II, what kind of RGB monitor would they settle for? What sort of connector do they need to plug to?
Mortal Kombat (probably other Midway games too) have nonstandard monitors. Usually games have 15.x KHz H-sync, ~60 Hz V-sync, MK have ~53 Hz V-sync IIRC. Perhaps if your monitor displays PAL over RF, it will sync to 50 Hz RGB. If the monitor does turn out to display "normal" RGB, I would just buy a DIN connector and hack together a supergun. Most certainly it can display 60Hz video since most computers then refreshed at 60Hz internationally, this will allow you to play at least JAMMA games.
Thanks Calpis. I m a total noob when it comes to arcade installations and supergun. I would need someone to hold my hand in the subject so i dont get robbed or fuck up
I don't think you can do RGB in only 7 pins. It's 11 or 12 minimum if I'm not mistaken. You'd need a 13-pin DINN connector for that to work. I've always had shit luck soldering said connectors b/c the pins are so close together.
Err, where the hell did you get 11 or 12 from? Red Green Blue Sync Ground Done! Exactly what the Commodore 1084 has. 1=Green, 2=HSYNC, 3=GND, 4=Red, 5=Blue, 6 isn't used IIRC. Barc0de, those "flat" connectors are most likely round in the middle, as per the diagram above, although there were totally flat DIN connectors they usually only had 2 or 3 pins. And we can't speculate without the TV model - every TV and monitor is capable of having a different pinout. You could try taking the cover off and examining the connector. Don't worry, there's only 40,000 volts inside there ;-) Yeah, that was a joke - DON'T open it!
It is RGB. Should be video only. It isn't SCART, which is audio AND video. Think S-video, or RGB monitors. You need seperate speakers / audio leads.
The one I was talking about above, was not a SCART either, and the monitor didn't have speakers (RCA jacks out of the RGB input -- ghetto, but worked). Regardless of your monitor, depending on your source, you're going to have to deal w/ audio, no?
Yes and no. Think of the following: S-Video Component PC RGB (15 pin) Composite None of those have audio on the same connector as video - especially S-Video and PC RGB. DIN sockets were usually used on monitors, and some old TVs, not necessarily for connecting home equipment but perhaps surveillance cameras etc. The need for audio wasn't there... and even when it was, as with S-Video, they would carry it on phono usually. SCART is pretty much the only connector to carry audio with the video. It is also why it sucks - cramming too much into a small space, and a lot of cheap leads can suffer interferece as a result.
I'm thinking in terms of hardware though, even though I shouldn't have been. Saturn, DC, my Supergun, SFC, etc.... have all that shit in one spot. And you're right... it is pretty lame. Anyways, kudos to anyone that can solder on a DINN connector. I gave up and just paid someone.
Soldering dinn is not so bad Before you start apply a little solder to each pin on the dinn that you will be using Then stript each wire a little longer then needed, twist the end and apply solder, then cut the prepared ends to the required length (about 3mm) Now hold the wire against the pin and then heat both together for about 1 second, remove the iron and keep the wire in place (needs a steady hand) until the solder is cooled (about 4 seconds should do) edit: if you have the dinn type with hollow pins then fill the pins with solder then heat each pin and instert the prepared wire into the pin, remove the iron from the pin and hold the wire in place for about 6 seconds until the pin is cool Continue until all wires are soldered (did I need that write this line ? ) A pencil tip iron is needed for this kind of job, forget about trying to use a solder gun
