Hey, I'm new to this forum, but i've been lurking for a while when looking for informations about hardware and game developement. I'm currently working on a cheap supergun pcb, that you can just plug on any jamma compatible device without any fancy box. I'm new to pcb design so I'm working quite slowly but it's coming along pretty well. The adapter would include the everything on a usual supergun including the video decoding interface (the goal would be to make a cheap to make supergun, that anyone that can solder can build). I already made rgb to composite/svideo converters (using the AD725), but I'm having troubles coming up with a good rgb to component circuit. I'l be posting the updates, pcb designs and prototype pictures here. If you have any ideas about the converter circuit or suggestions you are welcome !
So, would this be a small board plugging directly into the jamma board with connections for a ATX power supply, Video output, two controllers, audio, etc? If you do that, I would suggest making the board use D-Sub 15pin connectors for controllers with an extended NeoGeo pinout. And then have a connector for the extra buttons to be hooked up to a kick harness. Vogatek makes a similar PCB to be a supergun but the controllers are limited in the way that there is no built in handling of up to 6 buttons. I would think RGB to Component would be easier than to S-Video. Good luck with it. Be sure to tell us when you complete this.
Yeah i'm thinking of making an extension for cps2 and other systems that have extended controls. So yeah it would just be a pcb like you say. About the signal component isn't just rgb divided into 3 rcas, but i'm sure it's not too hard. The idea is to have a pcb that evolve, so we can keep on adding optional features as the project is going, some kind of user generated thing. For the psu i'm not sure, i'm trying to find some good 5v/12v switching power supply (laptop style) in Japan. Small atx power supplies are pretty cheap anyways, but a little messy.
without a fancy box? So what will it use then, an ugly box? Or are you just having straight wires coming out of a jamma harness like some people have? And yeah vogatek already sort of beat you to it. Instead of building a pcb myself I just bought a super cheap vogatek off of ebay and modified it to my liking. Only thing vogatek doesn't do is rgb to s-video. But I sort of like having my rgb to s-video encoder being seperate that way I can use it seperately for other things (like home consoles). Be sure to show us some pictures so we can see what you've done. As for the psu....the way I look at it is arcade pcbs are big and messy....so it doesn't hurt for the psu to be a little big and messy too.
I would use no box like the vogatek, the problem is that the vogatek is a little too simple for us/japanese residents that might want advanced video conversion systems (that could be used with anyother device if an rgb input is added to the pcb). Im sure that for 35 quids a better converter could be made, with the decoders and extended joystick pinout support. I'll post the pcbs i'm working on later, i'm just trying to figure out that rgb to component converter, i found a lot of the contrary (YUV --> RGB).
You can find those little red PCB supergun things for about £15 on ebay. They don't support 6 button games/MVS and don't have audio over SCART, though, so they're no use to me.
Nice, i'll get one of those then i guess and just build an extension for it. (and mod them aswell, extended controls etc.. are easy to add). I still can't find much about the RGB to YUV..
http://cgi.ebay.com/NeoGeo-MVS-and-JAMMA-Arcade-supergun-motherboard-MK-III_W0QQitemZ250349406479QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Video_Games_Coin_Operated_MJ?hash=item250349406479&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177 17 pounds shipped worldwide. For "extended joystick support" I simply soldered some usb ports into the extra pins for neo geo. And I soldered my kick harnesses into usb ports as well. And I attached male usb ports onto the end of the kick button wires for my controllers. I got one of the red vogatek boards. And for sound I got myself a stereo headphone jack to rca cable. Like I said earlier. I like having the rgb to s-video circuit on a seperate board so I can use it for other things. But whatever you think would be easier. I purchased a vogatek and modded it. And it works perfectly now with 3, 4, 6 button games. Has stereo or mono sound through my amp and speakers. All the bells and whistles. If you know what you're doing you can make a vogatek do pretty much whatever you want. It's pretty much the same thing as wiring up a jamma harness yourself except it saves me some extra wiring. And it converts signals to conventional cables. Why it doesn't support sound over scart I have no idea. But if I bothered I'm sure I could wire that up as well. For RGB to YUV the only thing I know is the jrok encoder board. But those are expensive. http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGBv4/index.html What chipset it uses I have no idea. I bought the cheapest rgb to s-video board I found and did a little modding to get it running perfectly. I just got one from www.arcademvs.com I had to add some resistors to the colour line of the s-video cable coming out of it because the colour was over saturated. But it now looks perfect.
given that it's outputting to passive speakers, I have a pretty good idea why - it'll fry anything that's expecting line.
Thanx for your infos ! Yeah jrok and the other boards are too pricey, im sure that you can make one for less than 20 bucks. Svideo is fine but i really need a component converter for my hd tv. i made an rgb --> vga adapter for my old tv, but my new one only has D4 (D-terminal / D danshi) , that is a component :crying: .
Hey, sorry to bump an old thread as my first post. But I'm looking to do this exact same thing. I've even found a schematic. But I'm having problems with some of the comments. I've contacted the creator, segasonicfan, and he can't help. He's having some health issues. 1. Says to bypass EACH power by Each IC. This includes VEE signal. Use .1uf ceramic caps. Does this mean i should put bypass caps on both VEE and VCC pins of the ICs. Meaning 2 per IC? 2. Says to bypass initial +5v and VEE (-5v) outputs using .1uf, .o1uf, and 100uf caps. I understand that +5v and ground will be coming from my power supply and -5v will be coming from the ICL7660. But I don't understand where to place what caps. 3. Is there a better option to get -5v from a power supply that only does +12v and +5v. I'm told the ICL7660 is just going to introduce noise. Maybe something with a transformer? Using another power supply isn't an option. Cause like the OP, i plan to put this all on one board, and have it powered by a tabletop power supply which will only provide +5v and +12v 4. I'd need help actually drawing out where to place these things. I'd appreciate any help.
Yes. Connect caps from VCC to GND and VEE to GND (if polarized, + goes to GND). http://www.epanorama.net/zen_schematics/Circuits/Power/dualreg.gif Even better would be to build a single-supply circuit though.
Indeed buying a arcade PSU that has -5V isn't that expensive. Although it is probably going to be easier and cheaper to buy a RGB (SCART) to Component adapter (I picked mine up for around $20). Works with most boards except a few that have an odd refresh rate so the LCD TV doesn't pick up the signal.
I understand this much. But In my question #2, there are 3 different values of caps. That's what I'm having the problems with. That's what I literally need drawn out. Looks like I can swap out the IC's to ones that output +5v and -5v instead of the 15v in the schematic. Now the question is, what transformer. Could you link me to a part? You're missing the point. The goal is to have the entire supergun on one board and only be able to provide it power with a wall wart power supply. Which the most popular and inexpensive ones only supply +12v and +5v
The normal way to do it is to build a switch-mode power supply or use a chip that implements such a supply. Maxim make a few that do what you want, like the MAX774 but you're going to be limited to a few tens of mA output at best unless you use external pass transistors, which sounds like it's going to be out of your skill range. Usually the -5V supply is only used for audio stuff so won't need excessive current but it's still way easier to just get it out of the supply. You could use a pair of supplies (with one hooked up 'backwards') to get another source of DC and then use something like a 7905 negative regulator to take it down to -5V but it's still best left to the pros. If you leave it off many more modern boards will still work fine - it just depends on what you want to run. Stone
I've got no idea what you've said. I'm really needing someone to draw me up or point me to a schematic.
Put simply, we don't know the term wall wart here. If you mean one of these (which is what I got when I googled wall wart): ...you won't find one that will do the job. They're usually single voltage and relatively low current. If you mean one of these: ...then you might find one, but it certainly won't be on the cheaper end. Dont forget that you need a fairly high current on the +5V line, and a reasonable current on +12V. They're going to be well over $100. If you can't follow a circuit diagram, then I'd suggest not tackling a power project - go for something that's ready to go. As for drawing out the PCB/stripboard, you can get software to do that.. some of it is free, even.
Like the Ault SC200 that are quite commonly used in superguns. Specs: Input: 100v - 240v 50/60hz Output: +5v 4.0A, +12v 1.0A
I understand how to read a schematic and can build this circuit. It's just his comments confuse me. Specifically it says to bypass initial +5v and VEE (-5v) outputs using .1uf, .o1uf, and 100uf caps. There are 3 different value of caps there and it's not really specific where to put which.
