SCPH-9002 power board in DTL-H1001

Just a quick one.

I was just wondering if it's safe to put a 9002 power board (PAL/240v) into a DTL-H1001 (NTSC-U/120v)? Just to save me having to use a stepdown.

I know an SCPH-1002 board would probably drop straight in, but just asking on the off-chance. ;-)

 

Well, just opened the two, and found that 9002 have 5 power pins, and H1001 has 7. I guess it won't work at all then.

oops~

 

There is a pin out diagram floating around the web, i think you only need 5 wires, but i dont know which im afraid, i swapped like for like, i took a scph1002 with a dud laser, and put it in my dtl1001. straight swap and now it works on 120v or 240..

edit. found it

7 pin plug

1 +3.5V - reset button pulls to ground
2 Ground
3 +3.5V standby (constantly powered)
4 Ground
5 +3.5V
6 Ground
7 +7.7V


5pin connector

1 +3.5v grounded by reset button
2 Ground
3 +3.5V
4 Ground
5 +7.7V

i have NOT tried this though, so hopefully someone else can confirm this.. according to the guide you connect them like this, but it looks like the older model draws 2 more watts than the new one, so i dont know how long it will last.


Motherboard pin 1 to Power supply Pin 1
Motherboard pin 2 to Power supply Pin 2
Motherboard pin 3 to Power supply Pin 3
Motherboard pin 4 to Power supply Pin 4
Motherboard pin 5 to Power supply Pin 3
Motherboard pin 6 to Left Not connected
Motherboard pin 7 to Power supply Pin 5

 

Ah, that's good information. Although, I'd also like someone to confirm it. Don't want to murder my debug.
I was afraid of the wattage differences, too. I think I'll be better off picking up a cheap 1002.

I didn't know earlier PlayStations had constant power/standby.. Any idea what that was used for, if at all?

 

maybe so some port access, could trigger the playstation to signal the power supply to power on? but was never implemented.. only guessing.

 

I was under the impression that all PS1's had an automatic power switching block built into them? So I would have thought that the de-buggers were the same!

 

if you mean 120/240v switch, then no. US and Japanese playstation 1's need 120volts only and will go bang if you use them on european 240v mains, but since i put a UK power supply in my US DTL, it can use either voltage. I have tried 120v in it with a converter i have, and it works great.

 

If you mean the standby thing, it seems that it was present in the earlier units, including debugs, but isn't in the 900x series. I'm not sure of what series it was removed.

That's with a stepup converter, right? I don't think 120v directly into a 240v device is safe at all. D:

 

All original [non-debug] power boards are region dependent. They do have 3rd party power boards that will work on all model and have automatic power switching. This boards are made rather poorly, but do work.

 

I have plugged stepped down 120v ac into my 240v ac equipped dtl1001 and played (although only a few minutes) games no problems.. Is it Risky? but that was the reason for the swap so i dont have to use my stepdown anymore... i was just curious to see if it would work..lol

 

I've never dared to try it, but I wouldn't recommend it. Someone else here will probably be able to elaborate more.

 

cde, what have you been smoking? :s

 

I wish :nod:. But seriously i think the 240v power supply has no problem accepting the lower 120v, it booted fine and played ok, but of course the other way round and my debug would have been smoking.:lol:

 

I still wouldn't have tried it. Surely 60hz going into a 50hz device can't be good, either.

 

The power supply doesn't dictate the video refresh rate, two separate items. For the PSX, its the games that determine the video mode.

-Disjaukifa

 

That's nothing to do with the refresh rate. AC power varies in hertz (how fast the current alternates), and is typically 50hz in Europe, and 60hz in most other places.

I just can't see the PS1 functioning properly with a 50hz current going into the transformer, with the rest of the power board adjusted for 60hz.

 

Does it really matter if it's 50 HZ or 60 HZ? It all gets converted to DC anyways...

 

I'm not entirely certain, but I wouldn't try it, just in case.

I'd imaging the output (DC) voltage would be okay, but the circuit converting it to DC might struggle a bit.