I have a model 2 SEGA CD that doesn't work. I found it in this condition at a thrift store long ago. When I power on the Genesis, all I get is a black screen. It is my understanding that this is often an issue with fuses. The PCB doesn't look at all like the ones I saw online many years ago at gamesx.com. In particular, there are nothing like the fuses I see on the other versions of the main board. Mine has a small black box that I assume has the fuse but the arrangement is a bit different. Also, the silk-screened PCB doesn't mark the component locations as simply "F" like I would expect fuses to be marked. Is that the fuse? Should I replace it or bypass it? What should I replace them with?
Sega cd Model 2 FUSE LOACTION Here is where it is on a Model 2. This is a PAL one, but my NTSC J is in the same place with the same number.
In this case the tolerance isn't that low. They blow easily but that may be exactly what is needed for a reason.
My PCB is very different. I have a black plastic box near that area labeled "FL301" and it may contain a modular fuse but I don't know how to open it. The only "F301" on the PCB is printed underneath very near that component. All the other "F" components on my board look like black vertically-mounted axial lead components that I would confuse for diodes if I didn't know better (no band on one end). I have FB101, FB501, FB503, FB504, and FB505. In case they are related, I also have L509 and L403 SMT components with what may be an unlabeled one between L403 and IC301 (IC301 looks like a VRM connected to the big heat sink). Pictures here: https://plus.google.com/photos/103592104676205397514/albums/5835741523585193953?banner=pwa My disc drive has a different hub and connects with a single flat cable. The model number is listed as MK4102A.
F301 at photo "IMG_20130120_225235.jpg" (SMD type fuse lol) Edit: FB means Ferrite Bead if you're wondering about that ...
Thanks. In all the PCBs I've seen in the past it was on top so it didn't even occur to me that it might be there. I was sure it was labeling the component above it. Anyway, considering how often these fail, could I install a fuse holder and extend the leads or would that be a bad idea (attenuation and line noise)? What spec should I replace it with? Any 2.5A fuse? Fast blow? Slow blow? Full resolution image: http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p...AAAAaM/ZbXIzwb9OPA/s0/IMG_20130120_225235.jpg
Standard fuse with extended lines will be fine. I did that to my model. I have both the one in image I edited and the one further up. As for fuse, standard 2.5 amp fast blow is best option. Otherwise any 2.5 amp fuse will work.
Thanks. Now I just hope I didn't mess up whatever is under that black plastic cap when I was trying to remove it.
That would be a diode, hence the "D301" designation. It should be fine if the shell didn't get busted. It is important for protecting against reverse current.
That's not the component I was worried about. It says "FL301" and seems to be right there where F301 was supposed to be on the top side. It had four slotted holes that reminded me of the dust cap on a fat Playstation 2 laser, some versions of which required feeling in similar holes to free latches and remove the cap, so I was probing a bit with some wide heavy-duty wood staples.
As long as nothing seems to be broken on the inside it SHOULD be fine. I can't guarantee anything though.
Never hurts to try! Unless you are scared of small house fires? :biggrin-new: (I've only nearly had one, once - thanks Mega PC)
