US Service: NESRGB installation into top loader

I was shipped a top loader by a fellow member on the boards but I don't have the correct equipment to pull this off confidently and I'd never forgive myself for ruining a top loader.

I've got the NESRGB in my hands as well as the top loader. I'll need to get permission from the owner to forward it along but I'm hoping someone here can help us out.

 

Does the owner have any specifications on video output placement (some sort of DIN connector v.s. the Helder/Buffalowing SNES style)? Cable used? Palette selection switch (none, drill a hole+mount a switch, or borti's IRG+palette select mod)?

 

I also have the Helder SNES style backing plate. My assumption is that it'll be a SCART cable. As for a switch I hadn't discussed that as I wasn't aware a switch was possible but now that I think about it that would be the case.

 

On my personal NES top loader, I've got a Helder SNES back plate and this board from borti4938 that handles console reset and palette selection from the controller. The end result is the perfect RGB NES top loader with no extra holes and completely reversible mods. I have two extra NESRGB-IRG boards built and ready to install to avoid drilling holes for a palette selection switch.

If this is what you're looking for, PM me. If you're looking for someone to cut up the case and install physical switches and output ports, you may want to look for someone else. Drilling holes and using non-standard cable pinouts for a third-party client makes me queasy.

 

What equipment? You just need to remove the PPU. If you're careful, you could probably do it with a solder sucker.

Did you mean to select a different palette in your post there? Half the word palette is black - not good on the dark theme!

 

I have done several of these, if you want me to do it for you I could.

 

You could do it with just solder wick...and a lot of time and patience. Since it's all through hole, it wouldn't even be the end of the world if you lifted a pad or burnt through a trace. However, if you have a Hakko 808/FR-300 (or the like), desoldering long DIP packages takes a few minutes tops. With a powered pump and the correct sized tip, I feel more in control and less likely to burn up the pads trying to wick the solder off. It's totally doable either way, but I could understand why someone would want to outsource a job like this.

As to the text...I use the white theme and couldn't even see that! I probably copy and pasted "palette" to be sure I spelled it right and it took the formatting with it.

 

Yep, anyone doing this on a professional level should have an 808/FR-300.

First NESRGB I ever did I only had solder wick and a cheap Radio Shack pump, after an hour I got it out but ripped a via out and had to repair it. Using my Hakko 808 I can get the PPU out in minutes with no damage. IMO it's essential for anyone working with DIP packages.