Hey guys, I have decided to try to RGB Mod my Snes Jr to try to get the best possible image quality out of this thing, I have been doing quite a bit of research but I still have a few questions that I cannot find answers to: 1) I am ultimately planning to use a RGB SCART to Component converter box to play my SNES on my Panasonic ST50 Plasma TV. The only converter box I can find (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1389517282&pf_rd_i=507846) does not carry audio unfortunately. Is there any sort of cable or splitter I can use to get the red/white audio leads directly to my TV separately? 2) I have seen in the guides for this mod that some people solder the composite sync and some do not - is this necessary? What does it do and why do some people not solder it? 3) In one video I have seen someone solder up capacitors as well as the 75 ohm resistors to the wires, what is the benefit to doing so? and what type of capacitors are recommended? (are they recommended at all?) Finally I have a question/concern about my motherboard in particular - when I removed the board and turned it over to the other side to take a look at the AV out solder points I noticed that two of the points (5 and 6) have been bridged together with solder (I'm guessing it was like this from the factory - I know I have not done anything to the board as of yet). I looked on a video of another person doing this same mod and his solder points are not bridged. My SNES plays fine via composite right now with these points bridge - but was this done intentionally or is this a manufacturing error? Should I try to unbridge the points while I have the board out? here is a photo: any advice/information is appreciated!
5 and 6 are both ground. They should be connected on the board anyway, so if the solder is there - its not making any difference. If the board was made wrong, then the solder needs to be there. There is no benefit to remove it.
I have this same box that I use for my spare/second TV. It works great, but yes, you will need either a breakout adapter (they're like $10 on eBay) that will plug into the SCART side and provide jacks for composite/l-audio/r-audio. Or you can do what I did--get a panelmount headphone jack or 2 RCA jacks from RadioShack or online, dremel holes in the side of the adapter, and solder the jacks to the SCART connector internally. Takes a minute or two of soldering which you should be OK with since you're doing the RGB mod, same level of difficulty, and it will look cleaner than getting a breakout adapter. Keep in mind that the colors on that box tend to be a bit off when you first purchase it. However, you can open the box up and adjust potentiometers for the R, G, and B to get the colors just right. I did this by booting up Super Mario World on the Virtual Console on my Wii hooked up via Component on one input and the SNES via RGB->Component with this box on the other input and then toggling the inputs until the colors looked just right to me.
thanks for the replies - I'm also considering getting a framemeister to hook the RGB cable into - I have heard great things about it!
I have a Framemeister that I use for my primary TV. Yes, it is worth it. I bought mine from SolarisJapan and was very pleased with their service, but this forum's very own Yakumo sells them to the USA in the AssemblerGames Marketplace with lots of pleased buyers.
They're completely different. framemeister has various adjustments and settings. Be sure to use the right cable, its included RGB adapter is Japanese. SCART to component converter is more minimalist. With it the TV needs to accept a console's output resolution.
this is the one i have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Ninte...ideo_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2ec97da25a is this the correct one to use for framemeister?
You need one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200884285845 That allows you to plug a SCART cable into the Framemeister's RGB-in port. The Framemeister comes with a cable that looks just like that, but it is wired for JP21, not SCART. JP21 uses the exact same connector as SCART, but it has a different pinout, and plugging SCART cables into a JP21 connector can cause damage to the receiving device. Always make sure you are using the correct pinout!
thanks for the advice. by the way does anyone know any place / way to get a framemeister for cheaper? I see on amazon.co.jp they are selling for about 29,000 yen (which comes out to about $300 USD) but the cheapest I can find them being sold to the US is $400+
As I said in my previous post, the best places to get them are SolarisJapan ($390 before shipping) or Yakumo in the AssemblerGames Marketplace (39'800 yen, roughly $400, shipped). You won't find them cheaper than that new with shipping available to the USA.
alright so quick update on the framemeister - I managed to import one from amazon.co.jp (total cost came out to $347.62 delivered to my door). does anyone know how to change the language to english on it though?
I just did the rgb mod to my snes Jr this week and can pipe in with my findings. I didn't bother soldering the composite sync wire because I figured I'd try it without and solder it in if it didn't work. I have a rgb scart cable that draws composite sync and it worked fine without soldering that wire. Some people solder in the capacitors to remove the 1v DC offset in the signal, which can harm less tolerant displays. However, the official Nintendo cable has these capacitors built in, as does the scart cable I use. As such, I didn't solder these in as they would be redundant. One other thing worth mentioning is that some people say that 75ohm resistors result in an image that's too bright. I used 100ohm resistors and am quite pleased with the results.
No need to buy another SCART adapter for the Framemeister, just re-wire the JAP21 cable that comes with it.
ok so I soldered everything up and it seems to be working! Picture quality is amazing compared to composite. I just have 1 problem: sometimes the screen begins to flicker green non-stop. it happens while im adjusting settings and resetting the consolee does not fix it (I need to power off the framemeister and then power it back on). sometimes it will stop by itself if i dont do anything though... anyone know what can cause this?
hm I think this happened once before I did the rgb mod though (I was testing the console with composite first), also I played the console for about an hour and had no issues, this only seems to happen when I'm adjusting settings with the framemeister
