SNES Mainboard Repair Corrosion [Serial: UP15971140]

:dejection: that is serious.

if you have a eeprom programmer maybe you could put a better game in lol.

or just buy one my snes library is slightly better a whole 2 carts, Super R-Type and Super Strike Gunners STG

just lacking a SNES lol

 

RetroJunkie has gone about this repair in the only viable (silly joke with vias perhaps ?) way since under all that lacquer there's a layer of shielding copper. Scratching on the underside of a SNES board is out of question.

 

If the hole goes all the way through the board, what I said will work just fine. I never said which side of the board to scratch.

However, it was a general comment about soldering to vias as he said he doesnt like soldering to vias. Putting them through the hole makes it much easier to solder.

i.e.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28488139/IMG_5924.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28488139/IMG_5925.JPG

 

Wow, cool stuff RetroJunkie!
Might give my defect (corroded?) SNES a retry some time!

 

Do you have any photos of what the broken traces look like?

 

I once made photos, but that was a long time ago. Not sure if I can find them back (think there's a topic floating somewhere of GamesX as well XD ). Else I'll make new ones. I recall one of the caps was exploded as well. Should I continu that in here or start a new topic?

 

Actually, that's not true. The Taiwanese capacitors involved in the alleged espionage case were made from 1999 to circa 2007. Therefore, Nintendo couldn't have used them in the early Nineties.

Electrolytic capacitors deteriorate as a matter of course. The electrolyte evaporates, causing a drop in capacitance and the salts become less conductive at low temperature, causing an increase in ESR. They usually have a shelf life of 7 or 8 years (unused), and should last for up to 20 years. All electrolytic capacitors have a design life - a stated expectancy for how long it should last within its working parameters. You get the cheaper capacitors (rated at 85°C) and the long-life capacitors (rated at 105°C). The design life will be in hours. As a general rule, you can double the actual lifespan for every ten degrees below its rated operating temperature. For example, if you ran a capacitor rated 2,000 hours at 85°C next to one rated 2,000 hours at 105°C in an 85°C environment, the 105°C capacitor should last for 8,000 hours.

So, as you can see, it all depends on how often a product has been used, at what temperature and the quality of the capacitors... but I'd say that products made from around 1995 onwards shouldn't need their electrolytics changing just yet... and even quality electrolytics from the early Nineties and even the Eighties can still be fine (I have several Betamax VCRs running perfectly).

I'd say that a lot of capacitors nowadays are cheap and nasty. If you're going to recap something, get a quality brand and the best rated components you can find. I still see loads of cheap Chinese televisions with capacitors failing after only a couple of years, and they're always some nasty brand like Fu Kin Shite. Even Samsung televisions have caps go quite often!

 

Samsung use Capxon, enough said really.

 

Haha, true!

Oh, I forgot to mention, I preferred the game when the text was reversed!

 

Huh i see why i have been staying away from forums of late.

3 weeks later "oh you are wrong".

The leaky caps in both my sega cds, figment of my imagination and awesome photoshop skillz.

Fine

 

He never said you didnt have faulty caps, he said its not just a case of "they are 90s caps and therefore shit" i.e. that all caps from the 90s are a known bad run and then explained why.

You seem quite touchy as of late =/

 

It depends what tone you read people's messages in.

 

It was an extremely informative reply, if I had posted retros post and got a reply like omps, I wouldnt bother being helpful in future.

I like omp, but theres been a few replies like this recently. Seems to take things extremely personally as of late.

 

I got a hit as you know as well. He just needs to chill a bit, but sometimes I understand, I've done the same in the past.

 

Nope you are right i am touchy.

Ever since i did those bloody sega manuals and i copped nothing but grief for it (still get the odd pm about something i didn't do to somebodies "high" standard, "why aren't these in colour?" is a good one). I have lost pretty much all interest in this scene. Wish i never saw the blasted things.

I am aware of the cap thing but didn't go to finite detail which i think is where i went wrong.

 

You don't deserve any grief over those sega manuals. Although I can understand being disheartened or touchy if you are, after no one else did it and you went the extra mile out of the goodness of your heart.

Chin up!

 

Fuck them, you did it out of your own pocket.

 

omp's got the 'ump!

IIRC, there are two points to make here:

1. Most of that grief was on the Sega forum, not here.
2. I seem to recall telling you at the time that they were just being anal retards and their pedantic demands were unnecessary. IIRC, I even suggested a decent way to scan, which was pretty much spot on what you were doing, anyway.

No... not at all. It's true that capacitors cause problems, but there's a surge of people posting "change the caps" as if it's ALWAYS going to be the answer, which it isn't. You suggested that there was a known bad run in the Nineties - that's not so. The bad caps were mostly from 2000 onwards, although there were a few in 1999. Obviously, these aren't going to affect many consoles before PSone and PS2, except a few tail end models perhaps.

I was more explaining that to anyone who cares to listen - that the bad caps are really from 2000 onwards and capacitors from before then were generally better made. And that capacitor failure really comes down to a few major factors - quality of components, how much the device has been used and what temperature it has been used at - all of which basically comes down to the lifespan of the capacitor, which should realistically be somewhere between 7-20 years. I have devices from the Seventies and Eighties that still run fine with many electrolytic capacitors in critical stages, including PSUs.

That said, it is worthwhile at least checking capacitors as part of your faultfinding routine.

 

expose your work to the world and the assholes will flock with their opinions. it's the way of the world and exaggerated on the internet.

just think of it as "constructive criticism" only poorly put forward / worded in a anally retarded kinda way.

 

Definitely do and be sure to post your results! Somehow I managed to miss the damage near the reset button but saw the corrosion near the sound circuits - Make sure you have good lighting! :friendly_wink:

Edit: Sidesteps the rest of the mess in this thread...:suspicion: