Hey guys, first of all, I'm new to hardware modding and pretty new to soldering stuff so please don't be to hard on me... I bought a SuperCIC chip for my SNES some time ago and my brother was going to solder the thing in my SNES. He did solder it in my SNES but for some reason the chip had issues with switching modes, but as i was only a short time at his place and he lives far away, he took the chip out and made the SNES back in it original state ( sort of, with the connections as they were before). That went fine and i was able to play my original PAL games again, but yesterday I was sick at home and wanted to get the damn thing working myself. So i started to solder everything in it again. Afterwards i tested the mod and it worked, for the better part. But still I had issues with the LED color and the switching between modes. The LED color was dimmed red and bright red when reset was pressed. I mailed the guy i bought the SuperCIC from and asked what could be wrong. He said it might be that it was one of the LED's he got from retail that wasn't a common cathode, but a common anode and i needed to connect the LED type wire to 5v instead of gnd. So i did. This resulted in a bright red LED all the time with no changing colors... After that i tried switching the sides of the colors as i might have gone wrong there... This resulted in no LED color at all when powered on, and bright blue when reset was pressed (just like it was with the red one). I suspect that when power was on, there was a little blue coloring, but as it was during the day, it might have been hard to see the color. The switching problem was the following. When a game inserted it was most of the times giving me a no signal input screen (both PAL en NTSC-U). when pressing reset to switch the modes it sometimes switches between the modes, but most of the times it didn't. resulting in many time stuck in a mode that gave image and sound but bad colors (wrong hertz). But as the LED wasn't working, it was pretty hard to know in which mode it was in. I couldn't find auto mode either. And sometimes it takes more then 10 minutes of pressing reset to get to the mode the game needs or stays at the mode that displays the game but in wrong hz (50hz/60hz). My brother asked me to check the voltage with my multimeter, which i did and that resulted in weird readings... I checked everything at the superCIC, not at the end of the wires, just to be sure that the output was right at the chip itself. The results were the following: the red part of the LED was at v1.25 unless i pressed reset which made it go up to v2,5 (which explains the part of the LED becoming brighter, but is pretty strange as it should be getting 5v depending on the mode it is in) The blue part of the LED was at v0.05 (almost nothing) and when reset was pressed it was at v0.35 (still almost nothing). pressing the reset butting many times to try to switch the modes didn't change anything for the LED voltages (which it should) Then i checked the voltages for the PPU's. That gave me a v1.57 to v4.93 when reset is hold down. But the moment i released the reset button it goes back to v1.57. According to my brother the modes are switching with the voltage going to the PPU's with high (5v) to low (gnd). This explained the difficulty with switching between the modes. So i checked the incoming v5 at pin 1 and pin 4 of the superCIC and both have v5.01 coming in, so that isn't why the chip is giving out the wrong voltages. Now the question remains... What could be wrong and how can i fix this? All the wires are at place and i still have the original CIC chip on board so there was no need for a 10k placed between pin 8 and gnd. the main idea of the issue is that i might be the wiring, any ideas on that? Again, I know i'm pretty bad at soldering, so please don't be to hard on me... https://fgod1983.stackstorage.com/index.php/s/gA39fwHDrLX0RoI
I haven't done this mod myself but I would suggest testing continuity on all the pins, and check for any shorts
will do a recheck on that today, thanks. the guy i bought the superCIC from pointed out today that i should check pins 1,2,10 and 11 from the original CIC. I asked my broether and he said he might have resoldered some pins of the CIC back to the PCB so the SNES would work normally again. So that is something i'm going to check today too...