snes with a no-limit chipset double image?

Hello,

i just bought me self an SNES second hand for a few bucks the seller told me it had a 60Hz switch but it gave double images on screen when used.

i got it in just now and on the bottom it states that it has a no-limit chipset installed for larger pictures faster pictures and region unlocking?

i,am not that stupid i know that these things can be done with some youtube video,s and i have done this already to my own snes that works perfect but when i opened the snes up the separate chip that was installed was glued in wist a thick layer of resin so i can,t see whats going on under the resin?

i figure it must have some auto region switching because it only has 1 double throw switch on the back and that's for 50/60hz i think.

can any of you with much more chip knowledge tell me if i can still fix this puppy up so it will only show 1 image instead of double images? and if its possible to know what chip is installed? like with an button combination or something?

i can,t find anything about this no-limit chip!

any help would be appreciated

p.s. i will shoot some pics of the screen and the inside in a few hours!

 

Just remove the chip and solder in a Supercic. Problem solved.

 

Like i stated in my post its glued shut i took a picture of it maybe this will help?

 

Holy crap. I don't even know what to say to that. Looks like someone took a cake-frosting-and-bubblegum diarrhea shit in there.

With a manual-switch 60Hz mod, I'd have expected something like this, but despite your mod being very well glued down in all the right places (and then some) there seem to be too many wires to/from the CIC for that - normaly one's enough. Maybe a SuperCIC(-derivate) mounted inside of the blob to the right, instead of on top of the CIC? That'd explain the four wires.

 

ok thanks for the info but is there a button combination or something that i could try to maybe recall a on screen menu of the super-cic/no-limit chip? or could i use a heat gun to remove the cake-frosting-and-bubblegum diarrhea shit from the board en try to look under it ? or would it just burn the hell out of the cake-frosting-and-bubblegum diarrhea shit?

 

No SNES mod I know of has any kind of on-screen menu or anything like that. The best you can get is a color-changing power LED, with a SuperCIC, but I don't see the necessary wires on your mod. Do you have anything going to the front panel assembly (the bit with the controller ports in it) besides the ribbon cable?

Anyways, if you try to remove that glue, be very careful because there'll be lifted pins underneath (see the link I posted). You do not want to break those off. I'm not sure if going at it with a hot air gun really is a good idea though; I wouldn't want that stuff spreading everywhere. (Mind you, I've never tried anything like that, so maybe it's not as bad as I imagine.) I hear IPA makes hot glue pop right off - but, again, you have tiny fragile legs in there, so that's probably not a good option either.

imho you'd be better off selling this console and modding another one. That, or you try to figure out how your current mod works and just go with the flow - either way I wouldn't try messing with it.

Btw, would you mind putting up a picture of the 'double screen'? Maybe it's not the mod but just sth. like a cable problem (not too likely, but worth a shot).

 

Heat the resin up, either a hair dryer or a hot air gun set to maybe 150c should do the trick. Hold it upside down as you heat it and let gravity do the work, so you don't rip a trace..

 

@ RSO i,am at the office right now but tonight ill post an picture of the double image on screen.
and the front panel (with the controller ports on it) is not soldered with anything so just the plain panel like it should be and the led is as normal red one so i figure changing color is not implemented.

@ Leham if you think it won,t hurt the pcb and or other parts i could try it?

 

I personally would use a soldering iron with an old tip to carefully heat up and remove the hot glue from the two lifted PPU pins and desolder the attached wires.
Then once the PPU pins are save just carefully pry the remaining hot glue off the board.

 

if the hit air gun trick won,t work ill try it with an older soldering iron i already got a new one underway so that would not be a problem here are some pictures of the inside of the snes i saw some rust and some corroding maybe some of you can help me out with this ? and here is the result when i hook it up to my tv hope these pictures help in some way? i would love to get this puppy fixed up

 

The brown stuff on the Fuse and the regulator legs look like just flux not a huge problem.

Use a heatgun first! A soldering iron will just make a mess... just flip the board upside down and gently heat the resin and it should lift off on its own.. Heating from the opposite [non resin] side will work better..

Get some Isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) and wash the board, wet it all over and use a soft brush [toothbrush] and just gently clean the motherboard

on the bigger traces use some fine grit sand paper and brush off the PCB mask and then re tin the copper to make sure there are no cracks. Use jump wire if necessary..

 

Lol, I'm still laughing. I didn't even know you could do that to a game system.

 

That's EPOXY, not hot glue. Who did the mod wanted to MAKE SURE nobody would copy it.

As per RUSTY parts on the SNES, most of the stuff you circled up are just solder flux as mentioned by LeHaM, but the rust around the capacitors is because the capacitors are leaking. (the smaller aluminum looking ones)

They need to be removed, board need to have the basic-ish goo that leaked from the capacitors removed, treated with slightly acid substance to stop the rusting (winegar diluted on water would work fine) and then new caps be mounted in it.

The graphics are broken probably due to a leaky capacitor near the video ram chips (two 62256 chips near the PPU1 and 2 chips).

I helped another guy here the other day with a similar problem. He got his console fixed.

 

i think mine is screwed i just removed the two leaking caps in the picture and now one of the solder points let loose of one of the legs and i can,t for the life of me get any solder to stick to that bear piece of copper underneat just likt some of the other corroded traces i got it down to the bare copper but my solder won,t stick to it no matter what is do.

on some places i could create a bridge wist a small piece of kynar but the holes that are there also won,t take any solder ?

could any of you advice on this?


ps i got most of the epoxy/hotglue/rainbow diaria of of it ill post a picture tommorow i think the chip is visible and the connections a bit also maybe then someone here could tell me what i have in my snes!

here are the pictures a bit faster

on this one i marked all the spots i think are pretty bad and the one pad where a cap should be that is marked is the one i can,t get solder to stick on,



and here is more about the chip under the epoxy.







hope this helps

 

That looks like something else not very pleasant, now! :\

Holes don't adhere solder - tracks do. You need to scrape the non-conductive coating off.

 

It certainly depends on the board design. The one on Nintendo products do solder great on holes because there's no coating inside the said holes, just bare tin.

 

hmmm oke then it must be my crappy ebay soldering iron ill try and get me an better soldering iron before proceding

 

Rusted holes won't take solder though, if that's what you're wondering about ...

 

no its more about the exposed copper trace under the normal trace and the holes at the end that would like to use solder on

 

If they're not rusted, just tin the tip of the wire, insert in the hole and heat up while adding mode melted solder to the wire (already inside the hole) and it will bind to the hole easily.