Soldering kit reccomendations? + extras?

The Atten is a clone of the Hakko, not really sure how it compares. I've heard mixed reports about clones, probably depends on which clone and where it was made. Personally, I'd suggest you get the genuine Hakko FX-888 instead. I've just done a bit of research, and it does sound like the FX-888 is a worthy upgrade for 936. You can find it on ebay for around £100 shipped. This might seem a lot more than £40, but you need to put in perspective that a quality soldering iron will literally last forever. I have an uncle who's an electrical engineer. He bought a proper soldering station with a ceramic element in the early 1970's, and he's still got the same unit today, and he's never had to repair it or replace the heating element.

 

Mine is: http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/bl...ering-station-digital-displ-bk2000-p-208.html

They work very well

 

Yes, a cheap iron really doesn't do you any good. Get a decent temperature controlled station. The Chinese ones are OK but I'd recommend Weller or Metcal. OK sure, my Weller was £650, but it's something I use all the time and I couldn't be without it now. Makes my Antex CS look like a piece of crap!

Other than that, learn how to solder properly. Don't just jump in with a mod if you don't know the basics - practice on something that doesn't matter first. Extras-wise, you shouldn't need much. Obviously a reel of solder and perhaps a dispenser, maybe some of those soldering kits with the scrapers and what have you, helping hands can be useful, a decent desoldering pump is most worthwhile and I prefer one to desolder braid, which is too fiddly. Or a desoldering station, of course. Tip tinner is good to have, obviously a decent iron stand with a sponge. You can have flux if you want but it's not a necessity if you know how to solder properly.

 

Agree with the decent iron, for the most part is parts are easier to find. I got a Jaycar (electronics store in Australia) "their brand" Duratech iron. I got this when I was an apprentice. Whilst it is a great soldering station, digital display with 3 preset temperature and variable temperature control, I recently tried to find a spare tip for it. Jaycar no longer support that iron and can't find any tips to suit it.

Helping hands are the key and if you are keen to carry on a decent de-soldering tool is a great thing to have. I bought a decent one of these, a Hakko 808 and I love the bloody thing!

*Edit if I ever have to replace my soldering station, has anybody had experience with Goot? I know I for sure I would get the decent (sorry should say "known") brand, be it Hakko, Weller or Goot.

 

Flux is a MUST for anything but simple soldering.

Anything with a fine pitch you need flux. DIP or large SMD you can get away without it.

 

So would you reccomend this station? It does look a bit on the cheapo side but if it performs well with zero faults it looks like it would make a good first choice. I'm thinking of just investing in a Hakko or Weller or something for the long term, depends where it ships from can't be bothered with ordering from America, but it's just justifying the price if there are cheaper things out there that perform just as well.

 

I have used that station for years. I cant fault it for the price.

I solder TQFP, TSOP, etc no problem.

Tips are easy to get, as its a hakko clone (so same tips)

Also the build quality is actually pretty good.

 

And it has a UK power supply? I think this is the one I might get, seems the right price range and functionality for what I want it for, not so expensive it breaks the bank but not so cheapo that it breaks lol.

 

Yes, 240v (dont remember what power lead it came with - but its a normal "kettle lead" IEC C13/14).

Which most people have a few of.

Also, it comes with a conical tip - which are pretty useless IMO.

Get a 0.8mm Bevel tip at the very least.

 

I use the X-Tronic Model 4040 , Love the Station tbh. Works like a champ and also comes with a hot air rework station , Good solid station that is great for the everyday solderer.
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Which is "just another Hakko clone"

They are all much of the same to be honest.

 

How is this one for doing mods?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Knight-...lectrical_Equipment_Tools&hash=item336f5c8917

Thanks.

 

I personally wouldn't get it. Look at the temperature stability, quoted at +/-4C (9F), while the Hakko FX-888 will give you stability at +/-1C, which tells you that solder station doesn't have anywhere near as good a temperature sensor. It's also only a 40W iron, compared to 70W for the FX-888, which tells you that once the heat drops, it also won't heat back up nearly as quickly. There's also no actual temperature dial or readout, so you have no way to know what temperature you're actually running with when you're soldering. The unit also looks pretty obscure, and those tips look like they're custom, so you'll probably have trouble finding any tips for it in the future.

 

alright. So its Weller and Hakko then.
I'll look into those.
Thanks.

 

x

 

Is 30awg wire good for most jobs including switches? I got 1m but it's tiny! Super super thin wire, would stranded wire not be better for switch jobs?

 

Kynar wire is fine dude.

 

I use stranded wire where I can.

I find ribbon cable is great for switches - as it keeps the 2/3 wires all together and looks tidy.

 

I have one of those As Seen on TV" cold saudering irons. I have no idea what the rating is. Anyone have experience with those?

 

(Gonna breath some life into this thread )

So guys I've been looking at the BK 2000+ and BK2050+ on the circuitspecialist site, anyway, one's rated 35W, the other 70W.
So the iron reheats a bit faster between each application I gather, does this matter for practical purposes when doing actual jobs?
I mean enough to warrant the pretty large price diff.

I'm tired of my three regular standalone irons with different ratings and tips, it's a chore to do any serious soldering without a station.