Sophia SH-2 CPU Boards - 171-6692B

Discussion in 'Sega Saturn Programming and Development' started by Shane McRetro, Mar 19, 2013.

  1. Shane McRetro

    Shane McRetro Blast Processed Since 199X

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    I was sent these two lovely 171-6692B CPUs from a kind fellow on here who saw I was in need of some SH-2 CPUs.
    However, they seem to be different from the 171-6692D CPU boards that are typically found with Sophia hardware.

    As far as differences are concerned I can physically see;
    - The second power header (CN4) at the top is missing.
    - The two jumpers (JP1) to the left of the SH7095 chip are missing.
    - It says 171-6692B instead of 171-6692D (duh).
    - Marking at the top under SEGA is ADK-7000 instead of HCD63.

    CN3 and CN4 appear to be the same connector.
    Outer pins are both ground and the middle pins have continuity and read as 5V.
    Does anyone know what these 171-6692B might have come out of originally?



    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
  2. Shane McRetro

    Shane McRetro Blast Processed Since 199X

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    Here's some video, I hope it helps identify these cards a little better.

     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 25, 2015
  3. retro

    retro Resigned from mod duty 15 March 2018

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    Just a different revision. Exactly the same, works the same.

    Could be that one was the kind you had to order if you didn't have an ICE. They'll work in a Target Box or Graphics Box.
     
  4. Shane McRetro

    Shane McRetro Blast Processed Since 199X

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    Looks like I've got bigger problems with my Sophia then!
    Guess I'll start with a recap, especially a recap of those SMD type caps right near the 315-5746 chip.
    Anyone know if these things are any good at checking old caps once they are off the board?
     
  5. retro

    retro Resigned from mod duty 15 March 2018

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    Just change them.
     
  6. Shane McRetro

    Shane McRetro Blast Processed Since 199X

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    You know I will! :friendly_wink: (Too bad I can't use my brand spankin' new Hakko 808 for the SMDs...)

    Quick question for you regarding the behaviour of a Sophia.
    Does the LED near the CD drive blink steadily on a functional unit?

    Edit: 42 or so of the finest capacitors on order from Element 14 / Farnell.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2013
  7. pitsunami

    pitsunami 3DO maniac

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    It always blinks steadily till it finds a saturn cd,
    then it blinks when it reads data.
     
  8. Shane McRetro

    Shane McRetro Blast Processed Since 199X

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    Ah! Excellent to hear! :smile-new:
    Hopefully I'll have *most* of the caps tomorrow. Three types of the ten were partially out of stock.
    ETA should be next week for them anyway. Brought my Hakko 808 home today from work as well. :triumphant:
     
  9. omp

    omp Familiar Face

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    fap fap

    Yea SMD's are a pain to remove especially if they have leaked. I cut the cap off just above the base (where the indented ring is) the plastic base slides up and off exposing the legs. Clean around the legs to remove the crap sitting on the solder, then just use a regular iron and a bit of solder to get stuff flowing.
     
  10. Shane McRetro

    Shane McRetro Blast Processed Since 199X

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    That's definitely how I'll be doing it! I learnt my lesson well working on that Apple Macintosh LC 475.
    First one that came off ripped up some pads true and through!
    Everyone after that worked a charm though. Wouldn't want Sophia to get any injuries now! :smile-new:
     
  11. Shane McRetro

    Shane McRetro Blast Processed Since 199X

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    Well Sophia has been repaired (well most of the caps, a few on backorder) and she seems to work.
    I actually used the metal fatigue trick on the SMD caps.
    Lift the metal can up slightly by wedging a flat blade screwdriver in under, remove it and wobble it back and forth and in circles.
    Next thing you know, one free SMD cap! Replace with radial and your broken thing will come to life.

    And I can confirm now that the 171-6692B SH-2 CPU boards are compatible with the Sophia Systems Programming Box!

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Bad_Ad84

    Bad_Ad84 The Tick

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    SMD caps I actually just twist with a pair of pilers. Then you just snip the legs so the plastic can lift off and then desolder whats left with an iron.

    Easiest and fastest way to do it, just need to make sure you dont go all twist crazy and lift pads.
     
  13. Shane McRetro

    Shane McRetro Blast Processed Since 199X

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    The only SMD cap I've destroyed a pad on (and had no vias or traces to reroute to...) was on an LC475!
    First one I did and the last one I broke.
    I need a decent pair of pliers! :topsy_turvy:
     
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