Super Famicom - Moving Colors at Startup

Discussion in 'Repair, Restoration, Conservation and Preservation' started by Dan Rank, Aug 11, 2015.

  1. Dan Rank

    Dan Rank TankRank53

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    I received a super famicom yesterday, played for a bit (it worked fine with composite) and then set upon cleaning it and performing a component video mod. I hooked the mod up to regular RCA cables first before adding jacks or case modding and it worked like a charm. I went about the rest of the mod, hooked it up to play after and I get this screen:

    IMG_20150811_142106015-min.jpg

    I got that screen while the component mod was hooked up and have since backtracked, removed the mod (and all traces of it from the board) and I get the same screen from regular composite AV cables and from the RF. I noticed the s-wram chip gets very, very hot within seconds of power-up.

    I have done the following:
    - cleaned the cart slot out very well.
    - replaced the 7805 regulator and the 1000uf cap
    -checked all traces for corrosion and cleaned the hell out of it with alcohol

    My theory at this point is that that large capacitor was on its last legs and worked in the afternoon. Me bopping the board around (I was careful, I've AV modded most of my consoles) perhaps I physically finished it off which caused it to pop which took out other components or traces (no evidence, just a theory I've come up with after some research around here.

    Anyway, any ideas you can help with would be great
     
  2. piplup10036

    piplup10036 Gutsy Member

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    Open it up and start replacing the capacitors sounds like a great start.
     
  3. wilykat

    wilykat Site Supporter 2013

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    check for wayward solder blob. One of my TG-16 was putting out really funny glitched graphic after AV mod, it was a tiny solder blob on one of the 64k ram chip used for video.
     
  4. MonkeyBoyJoey

    MonkeyBoyJoey 70's Robot Anime GEPPY-X (PS1) Fanatic

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    Are you getting RGBS from the Multi-Out or from a spot on the board before the Multi-Out? RGB cables for the NTSC SNES require 220uf caps on the RGB lines. I'm not sure if the component mod needs them too so you could try using them and see if it helps. It could be possible that the RGB lines are damaged somehow.

    As others have suggested, check your solder points and see if you need to redo them or if you accidentally damaged them. A cap replacement is a good option too.

    Hope this helps!


    Also, the component mod isn't needed on an RGB capable console like the SNES. Just simply use an RGB SCART cable and a SCART to component converter. No mods are needed for this. Just make sure the cable is wired for C-Sync and is properly grounded and shielded like this one. Sadly, going from RGB to YPbPr component video creates a loss in quality so a SCART to HDMI converter would be better. The XRGB series are great upscalers but use JP-21 cables and are about $350. The upscaler I use is about $60 and converts it to HDMI.
     
  5. Dan Rank

    Dan Rank TankRank53

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    Checked the board and cleaned up some sloppy solder points to no avail. I was pulling the red and blue component signal straight off the s-enc chip which older SFC systems can supply without any components. The green/sync signal came off a pin on the connector. I have experience with RGB and sync headaches (new/main reason I hate the 32x now) and though it does't look exactly like one, its the closest thing I can think of. But then again, it appears with everything even the RF, and signal off the encoder chip itself. I will start replacing caps when I can get replacements.

    It sounds weird, but I just prefer getting the best possible native output through the console itself and I like to mod all my consoles to use standard AV cables so I can easily switch them out (props to the 3DO for already having this). I have a 14" Ikegami RGB PVM but most of the time I like to hook it up to a bigger CRT in a living room setting.

    But, the mod is less of a concern now as I've disconnected it and now I just want it to live.
     
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