SuperCIC mod gone wrong (apparently)

Hi there everyone! Glad to see there's an active forum for this topic.

So, my friends ordered the SuperCIC kits from eurasia.nu and asked me to mod it for them. After doing the Gamecube xeno chip mod I thought "How hard can it be". Well, apparently harder than what I anticipated.

I have 1 SFC and 2 PAL SNESes, of which I have modified the SFC and one SNES. Now, the results are as following:

• SFC: PAL games seem to start normally but colors don't work and the sounds are buggy.
• SNES: Most of the PAL games say that the console region is wrong (which it actually isn't). Also the LED doesn't change color when holding the RESET-button.

Where did I go wrong with this? I did manage to rip out the pad for PIN 10 of the old CIC, but I found a schematic and managed to connect the wire to PPU2 PIN 34.

Also, is there an alternative contact point for SuperCIC PIN 02? I tried to solder it to the old CIC PIN 7 but it's hard as f*ck, and for the SFC there was an alternative point on HCU04. Any idea which point it would be on a chip called S-CLK?

Anyway, here's some pics of the mod for your viewing pleasure.
PAL SNES:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i6gc6cso7g5u6qc/20160811_194640.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/72z7bihlj8q80x5/20160811_194650.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/24cbyfij2fxctpk/20160811_194659.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xytw9l4pr7c3fb1/20160811_194706.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hh2wbhgn5hojyy2/20160811_194734.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/stm0v6jwm71t0fn/20160811_194816.jpg?dl=0
SFC:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oqzqughqy4ieeua/20160811_214859.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/72x5eiiboto9vl2/20160811_214906.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ktttswdskvhukni/20160811_214913.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kruvon9ckwbu071/20160811_214922.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f3n3pzfovukt6il/20160811_214939.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wja2fpraw0h8m9w/20160811_214949.jpg?dl=0

 

I am currently doing my first sCIC+uIGR+D4 mod on a 1-chip PAL SNES.

Do you have a digital multi-meter to check your connections?
Check there are no shorts between adjacent pins on the PIC and snes pins.

Prehaps fully remove the CIC for easier access to the board pads.

Not my picture

 

I thought SuperCIC is not a color encoding mod. NTSC consoles ordinarily need an RGB cable for 50Hz.

 

SFC:
Did I see it correctly that you haven't lifted CIC Pins 1, 2 and 11?

SNES:
Without clock input (pin 2 S-CIC) the micro controller cannot run at all. An alternative point to cic7 is the S-CLK pin 6.

 

That's actually a really good point. I've tried to check the connections with continuity-meter (the beeping thing) and there seems to be no issues.

Is it okay to just butcher the old CIC and detach all the legs straight from the chip instead of warming the pads and trying to lift the legs intact? I'm a bit cautious because I managed to lift the pad for PIN 10 on both consoles. Should I use some other method than soldering iron for chip removal, for example hot air gun?

Ah okay, well that might explain the black and white picture, I'm after all in Europe and the SFC is an NTSC console. But that doesn't explain the sounds bugging. Could it be that the connector for the sound chip is just loose or can it be something in the PPUs?

Ah yeah, my bad, the picture of the old CIC solder points was quite crappy. I'll try to take a better one whenever I have time. But no, I do have CIC pins 1, 2, 10 and 11 lifted as it says in the mmmonkey tutorial page for modding it.

AND THANK YOU FOR THE REPLYS!!!!! DEEPLY APPRECIATED!!

 

Yes the beepy thing is good

"Should I use some other method than soldering iron for chip removal, for example hot air gun?"

For IC removal I use a hot air gun similar to the one in the image above ( please don't be hateing ! )
The switch has two settings for air flow and heat;
- I use the lower setting
- heat for 20-30 seconds
- move heat away from IC ( otherwise a burnt hand )
- check with tweasers every 5 seconds until IC can be lifted
( usualy slides away and re-solders to something else Doh! )

https://www.amazon.co.uk/1500W-HEAT-nozzles-Paint-Stripper/dp/B003JH4VL0
£15.90 Free UK delivery.

Or
SMD Removal using a Chip Quik kit - YouTube


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/131671806985
£25.49 excluding postage?

 

for the price of chip quik at £25, you can put the extra few quid and buy a hot air rework station