Tips for a clean NESRGB install?

I've picked up a NESRGB kit for my front loader NES and I'm getting ready to install it. However, I don't want to drill holes in the console's shell like the installation instructions suggest. I was thinking the mini DIN connector could be installed where the RF connector is now (because RF can go right to hell) though I think I'd need to get the console opened up to see how this could be accomplished. I'm not sure what to do about the audio though, I've heard you need to keep the audio separate from the video as the NESRGB has issues with noise. I'm not sure where a good place to mount the audio jack would be. I could just skip the palette switch and put the audio jack where the channel switch was, that would also work.

I found a guy on the internet who has done a similar thing already, he also used the channel switch as a palette switcher. I was originally planning not to install the palette switch at all, since I'd be fine with the stock palette. But I could do the same thing, as I've heard the "improved" setting can look better in a few cases. Obviously, the channel switch is only a two pole switch, but I've heard the "garish" setting looks pretty crap, so I'd just skip this one.

 

go with mini DIN like the one you linked and mabye squeeze in a 2.5mm headphone jack next too it.

OR install a 2.5mm jack on the bottom next too the ext port, there is a lot of space there and very easy ways to run the external wiring to the TV. Heck you could even rout the RGB out there too.

This is a front loader yes?

Edit_
Sorry I didn't read correctly, so no drilling?
Hmmm
Is your unit RF only?

You could always desolder the EXT port as it's useless and hide a headphone jack in-between the PCB and bottom housing..

 

The NESRGB kit already comes with a mini DIN connector I think. The RF hole isn't quite large enough for both the mini DIN and an headphone jack though... But I think putting them where the RF port and channel switch is currently would look very tidy.

Yeah, it's a classic front-loader. This means it has the usual RF and composite. Yep, I don't wanna drill any holes in it, at least, not any visible ones. Your mention of the EXT port has given me an idea though, I could hide the palette switch there! Pop the cover on and the switch is now hidden! There's even a hole already in the case that looks to be the right size, and it seems like the switch isn't too tall. And I've just realized my NES is missing it's cover.

 

you could use a SPTT slide switch for the palette switch instead of a big one.
On my GameGear TV mod video I hid the slide switches inside the battery compartment, which looks very clean, so clean I forgot I installed them! haha

So I take it you want stereo sound?
Would you feel comfortable replacing the mono RCA with a 3.5mm?

IIRC the NESRGB uses a 8 pin mini DIN, you could always go with a 10 pin mini DIN..

I say 10 because the 8 pin one in the kit, although has 2 spare pins, means you'll need to share ground..

10 pin means you now have 4 spare, meaning you can now run 2 coax runs inside the console, externally you could use a separate run of shielded audio cable..

Externally cable wise, you are in the same boat, meaning you have two cables to tangle, zip ties will fix that and because the audio cable is shielded, I doubt you will have much problems...

 

I've seen that there are connectors that can be used in the expansion port (or at least be retro fitted) why not cut the traces around the connector and wire up your video/sound and make a custom cable that plugs into the expansion port. Since there're channels under the console it should look tidy as well.

 

The kit comes with a 3.5 jack, so yeah, that's what I'm gonna use. I don't plan to replace the stock RCA jack with it though, I was never a fan of the way the composite connectors were on the side, much prefer all the cables to be connected at the back.

Is that safe? All the stuff I've read said that the NESRGB has bad audio noise issues unless you keep the audio separate at all points.

Ha ha, creating my own cable and retrofitting the expansion port seems like overkill to me! Plus there's the issue that I can't access the connector without flipping the console over, a bit easier to access when it right on the back.

 

Is there any way that we could convince you to drill holes in the case? Haha.

Your options are a bit limited without drilling. While the palette switch seems appealing, I left it off on my second install (Sharp Twin Famicom). Your initial idea of maybe removing the RF channel switch and using the space for the audio seems fine. You could also first run audio to the 8 pin mini din and try it to see if it meets your needs.

So perhaps -
1: Replace the RF out jack with the 8 pin mini-din and run all wires to it and let it be a comprehensive A/V output. Solder the palette switch to the NESRGB, but don't mount it anywhere. This gives you the option to play games, flip the switch, and see how much you like it with the NES's top removed. You can also see what sort of audio quality you get with audio run to the multiout.

2: Now you can decide if you need to run a separate audio output as well as if you still want the switch. If either one of them are drop-worthy, you could drop one in favor of the other and place the appropriate item in the place where the RF channel switch is.

3: If you want all of it, perhaps you could look to do the switchless palette mod that is mentioned in that same thread on shmups.

 

Nah, I want to keep it looking as stock as possible. I think it looks ugly when people drill holes in their consoles and mount switches and jacks everywhere.

Yeah, I'm thinking the RF and channel switch will be the best place to mount the video and audio connectors. The audio can eaisly be attached by screwing it to the metal shield, but the mini DIN doesn't have this design. What would be the best way to attach it? Is glue my only choice?

 

you could hide the switch inside the cart slot on the front if you use a small slide switch.
There is a heap of room to hide a switch above the power socket, you'll need to use a pointy thing to change it though.

I say this because if you can hide the switch anywhere other than the stock RF switch, you'll be able to put the audio out there..

It is separate, because you are using a 10 pin din, everything for the audio (Even both grounds) are electrically separate too the video signal. Thats why I suggested using shielded cable inside and out. You can even run both audio and video together in a multi core cable, so long as the video signals are shielded from the audio.

cable like this but it'll need more cores for RGB and audio>

how often do you plan on changing the palette anyhow? I'd find having the option annoying, like how it's annoying being able to change the graphics in halo MCC haha kinda..

 

Maybe this could be something for you:


The PCB replaces the silver box in the NES and supports Gamecube and SNES MultiAV for the RGB output placed where the old RF jack took place. It also includes a PIC for selecting the palette using the controller or reset button. The selected palette can be indicated using a RG(B)-LED.

I do have one PCB including all parts except the MultiAV left. You just need a MultiAV jack from a defective SNES or GC. PM me if interested!

 

Yeah, I probably won't use the palette switcher much. But, if I can hide the switch somewhere, that doesn't involve drilling up the case, why not install it?

Ooooooh! That is very nice! How much is that? Are there any issues with audio noise? Do you use an NTSC or PAL cable? Do you use the stock NES AC adapter? And wasn't someone working on a 3D printed multi AV connector?

 

@Helder seems to be selling them via this thread http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/f-s-nes-top-loader-snes-style-multi-a-v-socket.50494/

 

At the moment I have version 3 of the PCB design in black (because I wanted to test the color ) The price is ... well, I have to look on my list at home, yet, I'm in vacation at the moment during this week (probably also next week). If I have it correct in my mind, it was something around 22€ - parts are preassembled (except the large 2200uF electrolytic capacitor and the non-included MultiAV jack). I think I do have a MultiAV from a GC still at home. However, I don't know whether the above linked 3D printed jack fits or not!
Also included is a 6-pole ground-shielded cable, and a small jack for the connection to the power-button/reset-button-panel.
(see installation manual: https://github.com/borti4938/NESRGB-IGR/blob/master/NES-IO/NESIO_Installation.pdf)

The audio from the NESRGB is used - at the MultiAV and also at the Cinch jack, which is just for cosmetic reasons there

Personally I use a self-made RGB cable without any components in the RGB lines and Luma sync. However, You could also use a stock RGB cable for NTSC-SNES (you might have to remove tantalum capacitorsin front of the RGB pads from the NESRGB) or a RGB cable for PAL-SNES (you have to replace the 75Ohm resistors on the NESRGB with 39Ohm resistors in front of the RGB pads from the NESRGB).
(I use a self-made cable because my SNES is RGB bypassed.)

You can use the stock AC adapter or a third party AC adapter. The board is based on the NES power circuit design. At the end of the power circuit is a DC/DC converter which don't need an extra cooling solution. You can also put the DC/DC converter from the NESRGB away and just close J3.

 

That is pretty awesome. Do you have photos of what it looks like from the back? It looks like you need to cut away the plastic between the RF and channel switch holes to get one big hole, so I'm curious what this looks like when done.

 

Oh sorry, I forgot to add pictures to my last post. My mechanical works are not the best - so I'm sure you can make it better than I did.

SNES MultiAV


GC MultiAV

 

Ha ha, mine would probably be worse If someone made a version of the AV connector that had a lip that went over the hole, that would be neat. Or even an entire replacement back panel like the AV Famicom, that way you could cut the inner edge and you wouldn't even see the cut once you had the panel installed.

 

filling in the hole is easy, use two pieces of flat grey plastic sandwiched together

 

Getting plastic that matches the NES' color sounds nightmarish.

 

get some paint color matched

 

Then the colour would look off in that area, you would have to paint the bottom half to make it look stock