Tool help, please...

I got a PS2 Tool a month or so ago and it was damaged in the post. Since then I've been repairing it slowly, reseating the processor, repairing the DVD drive, case etc and its now fully functioning bar one thing: the clip that holds the controller IC cable in place has come away from the controller memory card pcb.

This means that when a game is played controllers and mem cards don't work - however when pressure is appled with both thumbs on the contacts to the board it does (the analog leds on the controllers light up and the buttons work)

So my problem is reconnecting the clip to the pcb - however there are about 40 pins in the space of 2 CM - my soldering skills are terrible so I couldn't attempt it.

So, is it possible someone on here can supply a spare controller pcb or repair it for me? It seems to me someone skilled could either solder the pins straight to the board, bridge the connections with wires or bridge to the paths on the board maybe?

If someone could help me I'd pay good money, obviously :nod:

Picture:

 

Oli, that is a pain in the ass! Don't even attempt the repair just now. Lay it to one side and let me just send you a spare one from a retail unit. Lets' see whether it is exactly the same or not. ;-)

 

I'm way ahead of you mate, already tried it with the controller pcb from a SCPH-50003 and the DTL-H10000 TEST - no joy in either case :-(

 

Other side of the Tool's controller PCB:



Both the SCPH-50003 and the DTL-H10000 TEST's controller PCBs were different in shape and layout to the Tool's - it may be something to do with the two bridged connections the picture above shows??

I'll get the pcb out of the SCPH-10000 and see if thats any different/works...

 

Ah knackers! Okay, I'll have a look over the weekend. Not got any spare Tool controller ports, but I'll compare side by side.

 

I have a spare one but it might be damaged, I'll take some pictures later.

 

Damaged how? I'm willing to try it anyway!

 

PM sent.

 

Cheers, I appreciate you looking :thumbsup:

 

Did this issue get resolved?

 

Unfortunetly not, uj very kindly sent me a replacement but it has the same problem as mine. Seeing as I have a safety net (Of sorts) I may try to gently bend the pins on one of them.

I'm going to be taking a look at the differences between the tool/test and retail ports tonight to test out a few thoughts I've had. One thing that has been sticking in my mind is the fact that both mine and ujs Tool controller ports have 2 wires bridging symettrical points on the pcb - I guess one for both controller OR mem card layouts.

Also, from what I remember the neither the retail or test pcbs had those black squares (chips of some sort? they look plastic..) that you can (barely) see on the picture above....

 

Can't tell what the pin separation is and what the soldering area looks like. Looks like surface mount, but is the pins straight, or do they flat out to an L shape?

Depending onhow the contact area looks you could:

1. Apply lots of fluss and then just put some blobs of solder on it and let surface tension take care of it. Very quick if you know what you are doing, but can and up in a big mess if you don't get it right.

2. Put a very thin layer of solder on both the pads and the pins. Then tack it in on one end by using a clean iron. After that move the iron slowly over all pads/pins to finish the soldering. Never add more solder. Has the advantage that you can abort after a few pads and just redo it if you don't like how it turns out.

3. Some electorics shops sells* tape with small amounts of solder built in. Buy some with the correct separation and just tape it over the pins if they are L shaped. Never tried that one, and I suspect (2) above is the better way anyway.

* Or at least used to sell. Haven't checked in a few years.


Whichever method you use, make sure to practise on something first.

 

Solder Skills ok, but this is like no chance to fix it.
When someone have an Function Replacement Part, please contact me.

First you have no chance to Solder it directly on the board because there is no space.
And the Pins are L Form so when you make an conection with wire you musst push pin for pin up.

 

Those are ZENER diodes meant to protect the IOP from short circuits (remember that there is a 8V wire on the controller cable, for the rumble motors). On retail controller boards these are on the other side so to replace them, you need to remove the board from the plasic piece and that takes a lot of solder pumping ><

Usually when only one of the ports (be it MC or controller) stops working, one of the zeners got zapped with 8v and shorted. I suggest replacing with one from a retail PS2. Burning an IOP controller serial port is not fun at all because then the TOOL would be like half useless.

Oh and sorry about jumping in out of nowhere into this conversation...

 

thread necromancy commence!

so...
This poor unit landed on my loving hands as for today, and with that i got quite a wall of questions

lets start from the broken controller port for now. I will attempt to solder it after i've gotten the unit dissected, but what am i excatly dealing with here?

is it actually impossible to obtain a working spare part at all, from sony or where ever ? or am i just gonna have to trust my horrible soldering iron on this ?

another one concerns the PSU of it.
it's a JPN unit and states AC100V 3,8A 50/60Hz on the label that has the serial on it. so i obviously can't plug it to 240V since it would just kill the thing.

the actual question is that is the PSU on these units just a normal one that are seen on PC's ?
i could always buy a stepdown converter, but i'd just rather have a PSU on it that accepts the 240V input.

it kills me to see it sitting there and i can't even fire it up for now. :crying:

thanks in advance


edit: opened it up now and the PSU itself has a sticker stating: AC INPUT: 100-240V ~ 3.8-1.6A 50/60Hz

so which one do i believe ? the PSU or the typelabel that's at the back of the unit

 

The PSU label is correct.

 

thanks,
I thought so too but with a device like this I wasn't gonna take any chances

was just about to come and edit the post tho. It doesn't make a difference as for now.

the PCI card didn't survive the shipping and the unit is dead.
the CPU fell from the card, has 6 bent pins and it damaged the socket while falling off.

so, anyone in need of a PCI 815VE (blue VGA port) that has damaged cpu socket ?

 

Can you take a picture of the damages?

 

i tried, but unfortunately i only have this total joke of a cellphone camera.

further examination however revealed that it's not quite as bad as it looks.

what happened is that the CPU and it's heatsink fell off, and bent 6 pins from the cpu itself.
this wasn't too bad aside one pin so i managed to salvage the cpu itself.

now the thing is that 2 of the coil things that are inside the pinholes on the socket itself are damaged too. One has been pushed deep in the socket so it most likely doesn't give contact even if the CPU is placed back.

the other coil was on a pin of the cpu itself so with a little care im now placing it back.

...i've worked on this for a hour now and already spent an antagonizing amount of coffee

about selling the card, that was obviously a joke (just to be sure ), im hoping to get the card fixed as soon as tonight and since the PSU isn't an issue, even run the machine before tomorrow.

edit: here's the best i can provide as for picture.
600dpi scan of th card, it's a bit blurry but you'll get the idea.

(10Mb picture) click me

edit again: so the questions continue.

I noticed that one wire on the cable that plugs ot the PCI card has been cut.
does it belong there or is the cable damaged ?
I was thinking of replacing these old cables with brand new ones but if the cut that's in the picture belongs there, I guess I'll stick to using the old cable.

sorry for the questions already, noobs are always noobs I suppose

 

Don't worry, I have no intention to buy it!
(Already got 2 Tools)

If you can't fix it by yourself, you could buy another one or try to get it fixed by the manufacturer http://www.neatek.com