I got a Doctor V64 off eBay for around $100, sold as untested. When I got it, it was missing screws, which is not a good sign. When I turn it on all I get is a black screen. I can open the CD drive, but only if the IDE cable is unplugged. There is a resister soldered on to the back of the board: I'm not sure why they put that here, or what it would do to fix it. Also the main board is glued in place. Is this normal or was this the previous owner? How would I go about removing the board? If anyone knows more about these things and can help me out it would be highly appreciated, thanks in advance.
Wow, that's a lot - especially for an untested one! The resistor is probably meant to be there - either because it wouldn't fit on the board, or to correct a design error. It's common. How are you hooking it up? You know that the Doctor V64 connects via composite, you select a game to load, then it sends that to the N64 and lets the console take over (switch channels) - right? And you have installed the emulation adapter with a cartridge in it? Beyond all that, is it a unit with a Bung-supplied CD drive, or one shipped without? User-installed drives often required too much power. Check the PSU under load, check chips are getting the right supply and be prepared for a custom chip to have blown, rendering it useless.
I think the CD drive is the one that came with it, It looks very generic and has no branding at all on the front. I am currently borrowing a PSU from a guy who runs a game store near me, at some point I am going to make my own. I was powering up the V64 without an N64 attached with just video connected out of the video out on the back, I have noticed that I can get video to go from the input to the output even without power going to the V64. I saw a picture of the back of a board that did not have the resistor here: http://www.nightfallcrew.com/wp-content/gallery/doctor-v64-bung-enterprises-limited/IMG_2180.jpg Currently I'm not sure how to get to the board and look at it, because it is glued in at the screw points. How much do Doctor V64 systems usually go for working? I haven't seen them that often and they were always upwards of $200.
Leave the resistor alone! It could well be a different version with that issue corrected. The system passes video through - it's so you can connect the N64 and not have to switch channels. You have to put up with composite, though. My last one I got for £30 boxed. Yes, sometimes people pay crazy (£150-200) buy it now prices, but there have been a few of late sell with a console, multiple controllers and several boxed games at the lower end of that, too. So sure, fully working they can fetch a fair bit. The point is, there have been a few dead units and it's often a custom chip, which renders it useless. I wouldn't want to pay $100 for an untested unit. And you can get an Everdrive now, of course, which is easier.
Ok, so I just got the board out: It has been worked on a lot. There are pictures of boards with the same modification here: http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?52925-Strange-Doctor-V64-mod-needing-explanation and http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?45297-Doctor-V64-no-video-out Does anyone know what this mod is trying to fix?
As I keep saying, wires, resistors etc. are often found on a retail, sealed product due to either an error in the layout or simply not being able to run a trace between two points. It was done by Bung - stop worrying about it!