Hello I bought JAMMA cabinet and I am not quite sure what this is and where it goes? Anyone know? Thanks.:033:
what is it used for? EDIT Just to be clear: Original cabinet is taiwanese, 110volts. 220v PSU changed inside the cabinet. Transformers is used to supply 110v to the monitor? Makes any sense?
I assume the original voltage was 110V and you're in a 240V country? The arcade PSU may be dual voltage, you'd have to check. If it runs off something like 100V-120V and 220-240V, you're fine. However, the monitor will most likely still require 110V. The leads look a bit thin for mains voltage, though. I'm not sure why it was removed, unless someone decided they didn't need the isolation transformer. What cabinet is it, and what monitor?
Cabinet is http://flyers.arcade-museum.com/?page=thumbs&db=videodb&id=6188 The old monitor inside the cabinet was broken (hantarex polo 28") while friend was moving the cabinet. We took apart old 28" Nokia TV (Philips Tube) and it fit perfectly in the cabinet The TV uses 220v which is same Voltage as the current PSU inside the cabinet. Also for the RBG Sync + GRD. Can I just solder them directly to the JAMMA harness like so? Since TV Tube obviously has SCART. http://www.gameland.gr/geoanas/realarcade.htm
What happened to the Polo? Was it the tube or the chassis? I would have fixed the Polo, personally - especially if it was just the chassis. Removing the monitor explains removing the isolation transformer, though. The TV tube doesnt have SCART, but the chassis will. In which case you could rig the loom to end in a SCART connector if you want. You'll have to play around with the signal levels as per usual, and it's not going to be as nice as the Hanty, and I assume you're running a second mains cable which is a bit clumsy, but yes you should get something reasonable out of it.
Hey we got it working with the Philips TUBE. But there is one minor problem: Sega STV service menu works fine etc but when the winter heat boots the TV suddenly goes off and won't turn back on until I have taken power cable off and plugged it back in. Same sort of thing happens with the Marvel Comics Avengers in Galactic Storm. BUT! with this JAMMA board if I go to service menu first, then change TV zoom and go in the game, it actually doesn't shut down. Very strange. Maybe we are missing something in the SCART cable? Used 100 ohm in +5v and 220 ohm in each RGB colors. In sync we used nothing and Audio goes via the cabinet speaks not SCART. The Scart is grounded and all the necessery points in it. I noticed that when the TV shuts down the game has extreme flicker moment (white flicker in Winter Heat main logo for example). I don't use resistor on sync pin, could this be the reason?
Well, you should check that the signals are within the SCART specifications. Sounds like your TV isn't seeing the signal. Some TV's are poor like that. As I said before, I'd really recommend repairing the Polo over using a TV tube. You don't need the extra crap from the TV circuits (multi input, for example... which seems to be causing you problems).
Jackalus, I hope you get the help you so desperatley need here. One re two issues you may want to take note of though. Firstly this isn't a dedicated Arcade board, you could perhaps get better elsewhere, but hopefully the people here are making you feel welcome and your situation is getting better. The other thing is I noticed double posts... not one, two but three sets in this thread page alone! I have merged them but in future if you edit your most recent post you will find you can add more info to it That is all for now and welcome to the forums
I have: Working Philips tube with neckboard and chassis. and Broken Hantarex Polo monitor and neckboard. Chassis should be fine. Wouldn't it be tricky to try to combine these 2 Also would the Philips neckboard be ok for hantarex chassis? I think it would require lot of soldering? Thank you sir, I will try to post properly from now
No, I meant it's better to repair the Hanty (or replace it) than piss around with a TV. It's not going to work combining the two, no... or at least, I'm not going to recommend you do it. Certainly don't bother without the correct knowledge. An arcade monitor is dedicated for the job. As you've found out, televisions often aren't up to the job. One problem is having no-input sleep circuitry, which you seem to have come across. It's a toss-up between cost of a new tube (if you can find one) and making do with the annoying TV feature. I do know someone who's giving away a non-working 28" Polo, though.
Do you guys know any other EU based shops than videotronicsuk.com ? They at least sell tubes but shipping is very expensive from UK to Finland. Here is full story of my TV tube problem: Hello I recently purchased Arcade Cabinet with JAMMA harness ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jamma ) with the Arcade Monitor broken. So we tinkered around and replaced the monitor with nokia sn71q1 TV (took it apart and put the tube+neckbone+chassis inside the cabinet. It is Philips Tube.). It works fine for few games like Ultimate Tennis which has resolution of: 320x256 and 49.764608Hz. This also craps up sometimes, the major problem is with the game Marvel Comics Avengers in Galactic Storm ( 320x240 and 58.000000Hz). If I turn on the TV right away when I start the game the TV will go in to some tilt mode and won't response to any commands (Even If I press shutdown from remote, except if I turn on service switch when turning both on at the same time. I can be in the menus literally infinite time without tilt. This is also the same resolution and hz.). I have to literally take the plug in and wait for 20seconds before I turn it back on, if I turn it back on after just 10 secs it will still be in that tilt mode. But when I turn on the TV after the game has started it will work on sometime but can suddenly in middle of gameplay(when lot of flashing happens in special moves etc) go in the tilt mode. JAMMA doesn't officially have SCART connection but I soldered this thing in it: http://geocities.ws/podernixie/htpc/jamma2euro.gif without speakers. What could be wrong, do I need more resistors ? Also I didn't solder the +12v coz I read that it is only used to change the channel? ALSO friend said that the TV might have some fail safe, that when the flicker happens TV can't sync properly and shuts itself down.
OK... The problem is that the television is a television, not an arcade monitor. It doesn't like what your boards are doing, and gets confused. Pin 8 of SCART will switch to 4:3 mode when given +12V. I wouldn't use fixed resistors on the RGB lines, I'd use potentiometers. I'm pretty sure you said you didn't, but DO NOT wire audio direct to SCART like that. Whoever drew this up is an idiot. Have you checked everything is giving the correct signal as I said? Only that will answer whether you have the right resistors or not. There Polo tube IS found in some TVs... but not that one. And I don't think you have enough TV repair knowledge to switch them, anyway. There are lots of European shops - most are in the UK, sorry. There's that one in Germany but I think they only do small parts. Best bet is probably eBay. That also rules out the free monitor, as you'd have to collect and it's in the UK.
Also remember that JAMMA video signals are generally higher in voltage from 1 to 5Vpp at 1K impendence then the SCART standard which is a a tiny 0.7Vpp at 75ohm impedence. Most TVs can handle a little variation between the two and some can't. As Retro said use pots instead of resistors to find out the levels of the RGB and C-Sync levels and make sure you wire up pins 8 (use a 120 ohm resistor between 5V and 8 and a 200 ohm resister between 8 and ground as this will turn 5V to 3V which is the proper SCART voltage for RGB) and 16 (use a 100 ohm resistor between 12v and pin 16) correctly. Also remember that ground is your friend so make sure you use ground on the audio, video and shield lines.
Ah, I was beginning to wonder whether you were going to chip in lol Did you see the diagram he posted? It was a bit of a facepalm moment, heh!
