What's the best PU-8 board?

Notice any differences between the PU-8-11 (Early US 1995 PU-8 with old GPU) and PU-8-21?
Because i did notice a difference. On the PU-8-11, The SCEA screen will instantly disappear as a Incomplete Startup and when was at the white Sony Logo, It instantly started going to 2x. On the PU-8-21 like i have and up and running, The SCEA is extended. Probably a change of chips from the production line? What was the differences between the -11 and the -21. The -11 PU-8 board was the one you could do the Audio Swap Method on the CD Player.

 

Must be the really old first revision BIOS. It only checks for the copy protection once. Later versions check more often.
One check is maybe 3 seconds extra delay until the game starts.
It has nothing to do with the chips though.

 

Man, Can't believe i accidentally zapped a PU-8-11 board by removing a Modchip. Dammit! Ever since i removed the Modchip last night, It wouldn't recongize anymore discs and it would just say Please Insert PlayStation CD-ROM or read them as Audio CD's. Did i damage traces. When i removed the tape, There was black residue everywhere.


UPDATE: The board doesn't boot anymore.

 

Also i installed an SCPH-7501's Power supply into an SCPH-1001 today and let me say, It ran much cooler than the original power supply. Do you think it will last me longer? I made it work by cutting the 1001's power supply cable and the 5501's cable and i attached the purple to the white and it made the rest button work.

 

You must have literally thousands of PS1s by now. Just play your games on whatever system works, instead of worrying about which is gonna last longer. Once they have all failed one way or another you can worry about what parts you should salvage from each system. Your OCD about which is the superior system is completely unnecessary.

 

So if it's not Mega Drive's you're bricking, its Playstations Man some people never learn lol

Also as Bearking pointed out, this OCD you have, will ensure that you are never happy with any system. Just enjoy your systems for what they are. That's what retro gaming is all about. Worrying about the microscopic differences between each revision is a fruitless endevor and will always result in either disappointment or a dead console.

 

If it's not clear why we're suggesting so, it's because you will not find a perfect model. Being a corporation that works for profit, SCEI would have been interested in keeping profit margins high where they can.
The earlier models may have design issues, while the later ones may have more cost-saving measures. Pick your poison!
Thankfully, SCEI's goal was (and still is) to produce PlayStation consoles that are both forward and backward-compatible with all software. So unless you do nit-pick, they function the same.

We're in 2017. So even if they did produce a perfect model, no man-made gaming console will last 20 years without maintenance. Since all these consoles have been out of production for at least 10 years, do not expect them to be in a perfect condition.
If you've got no skills to do hardware repair and/or are not willing to, you could go for a working set.

I would say that unless it is a known issue, you can assume that the console would work fine with its original design. Some hardware engineer had to plan it all, about 25 years ago.

If you did it while the power was on, well....

 

The PSX power supplies are also lethal. Just saying.