Okay, this is not old console related, but I didn't know where to post this. I've got a Wii with a missing inductor(is it spell correctly in english?) on the motherboard. Watching this image here http://www.w8not.com/media/catalog/...d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/w/i/wii_motherboard_1.jpg the missing one is the one in the middle between the blue and purple capacitors, anyway it says 4R7 on it. I wanted to buy one and resolder it, but which one do I have to buy? Because there are a lot of these things...
The other day I repaired a couple I had here and I believed unrepairable. All REV1 units are repairable since you can flash bootmii with a nand flasher. I found a unit with toasted video DAC (controller would sync so I knew it was booting) Also I had one with shorted SD slot and another with blown voltage regulator circuitry for the standby circuit (It would light the red led but would not react to the power button being pressed due to the 3.3v being at 2.0v)... Also I facepalmed when I cut the SD slot bit of another board for a project using the SD slot and I figured out it's only fault was a shorted SD slot connector. I could had that one fixed. D:
Faulty video DAC is actually really common. Usually it will work with composite leads and not component or vice versa. ALL of the boards in my broken pile are Boot1c or above (so no bootmii) and are all software bricked. As you know - I posted a nice list with Hollywood date codes and which are compatible etc. Shorted SD slot is also quite common. Found coins in sd slots and the drives loads of times too. I have easily repaired 500 wiis, hence the 100 "completely faulty" I have left
Either someone took the arcade emulators literally and tried to insert coins :highly_amused: or some kids thought it would be fun. Apparently the 2nd case is more likely but it makes me LOL thinking of the first scenario... Once I found cheetos inside the floppy drive of a friend's pc... his young ones wanted to feed the computer :excitement::highly_amused:
Curiously the Hollywood chip is programmed at factory (PROMs or EFUSE whatever they use, it's a one way programming) with a hash of the BOOT1 it will be using so it's not the date code of the chip that matters, but the board revision. I don't know if you're aware of this as it's a minor detail, but you can tell it's motherboard revision without opening the wii, even. If you remove the battery and put a flashlight inside of the compartment you will see a number and a circle with two letters inside. The number is the board revision (20 or more means no bootmii) and the letters are the code for the company which manufactured the board for Nintendo. Most wiis have "FB" which I believe is "Foxconn".
They fixed the boot1 bug at a certain date, as you say the hash is in the hollywood chip and with the date code of the chip you can tell if it has the hash for boot1a or boot1b (which allow the exploit to install bootmii as boot 2) or if its boot1c or boot1d, which do not. There is a period where serial number and board revisions overlap with ones with the boot1b hash and the boot1c hash. The only accurate way to know is check the date code when you are within this region of time. The reason I collected date codes and serial numbers is because when I was buying the consoles, it was much much easier to get then to give you the serial number - from this you can pretty accurately know the date code of the hollywood chip and inturn know which hash is in its OTP rom, which then tells you if its repairable. I was buying bricked consoles for around £15 each, which could be fully repaired (unlike faulty drive consoles - which needed replacement lasers etc). Which gave a full console to strip and sell. I was selling bootmii as boot2 capable boards for around £45 each.... lasers, drive pcbs (that allowed DVDR unlike later ones), bluetooth modules (another common fault - the eeprom gets corrupted and the console wont boot). etc In total I was making around £100 profit per console - hence the high numbers I had go through my hands Boot1 bug was fixed between week 17 and week 20 in 2008, thats as close as I got to nailing it down (never had a console between those weeks to limit it further). Date code 0817 - has hash for boot1b (so can do bootmii as boot2) Date code 0820 - has hash for boot1c (so it cant) I have had no instances of a date code being both compatible with 1 console and incompatible with another. Between those, I would be interested to hear from someone with those!
Check your stash of parts boards and I'm sure you won't find any RVL-CPU-10 board there. But if you do, it is using the vulnerable boot loader on the nand. I had several cases of badly corrupted nand (one even had boot1 missing)... But considering the universe of possible BOOT1 versions to try (A board with corrupted boot1 will appear to be completely dead as it won't init video neither will reset the ODD) and wrong boot1 is as good as nothing there, trying all of them is doable. If it's a -10 board you have only three versions to try. Corrupted BT modules ? I fix them once in a while. It's a simple 4KB I2C eeprom ... I just diff the firmware against a known working one and voila. I aways keep the original MAC ADDRESS of the module, of course.
Yes, I (used to) fix the BT modules too. For a fact none of the boards have boot1a/b - I could check the board revisions, but that would mean unpacking lots of stuff to get to that box. I do plan on having a clean up soon, so I will go through them then and see if I have any in the "cross over" period I was talking about. I wrote a tool that would ID the Boot1 and Boot2 version from a nand dump, I used to check any with a date code very close to date I ID'ed Unfortunately, over here - wiis are worth NOTHING now. When the WiiU was announced all work stopped almost immediately. I do not get many Wiis at all anymore. Shame too, as I said above - it was a nice money earner.
Well I have a pile of working Wii motherboards or half complete systems here ... Nobody want them D: So yeah I know how that's like
So... Bad_Ad84 could you send me one or two of this 4R7 inductor? I don't know yet what is the right model I have to buy...