Yet another RGB modded PAL N64

Just finished RGB modding my PAL N64, so now it's time for some bragging

Based the mod on this design. Got my own take on it though, designed a perfboard layout as I didn't like the messy "floating resistor" variant suggested on the linked page. The documentation also left out some pretty important stuff I had to figure out myself, for instance how to connect the N64 to the TV. It wasn't too hard though

As expected, picture looks really great compared to S-video. There seems to be some kind of problem with the PSU though, the transformer in it emits a barely noticeable random clicking, almost arcing sound (haven't really dug into it yet, so I don't know the reason), which results in image disturbances. Filtering the power supply to the CPLD might help, but probably its best to just get a new PSU if I can't repair it. I believe the problem has been there since before, but I've just not heard it until now as the N64's been tucked away in my media bench (or whatever it's called in english). It doesn't affect S-video output, which explains why I didn't notice it before.

I also made a custom cable. Used a VGA cable, basically just put a scart connector on it. Using the KEY, RES, SDA and so on leads for the scart switch pins, common ground, audio, etc.

Here are a few pics. The last three ones shows the finished mod, the rest are just random building pics:

 

Congratulations!

Now you own one of very few RGB modded PAL N64 consoles!

 

Nice! I don't get why the original had such a messy DAC! Quite lazy really!

Incidentally, it DOES tell you how to connect it to the TV. It assumes that you know you'll need RGB + ground + C Sync (or different sync for a monitor). As the project isn't really for the novice electronics enthusiast, it assumes you know how to get an RGB device into a monitor, basically

How about some screen shots? A comparison with S-Video from the same console would be nice!

Incidentally, we generally use the IMG tag on here for images. Imageshack has a forum thumbnail code all ready for you, that'll give thumbnails that are clickable. That's probably the best way.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Oh, and the album doesn't let you access it unless you sign up - if you want to link something as an album, you're probably better off with Photobucket or Flickr.

 

You're absolutely right, "the documentation assumed knowledge I didn't have" would be a better description. I am pretty much a novice in this area of electronics

I'll post some screenshots, once I've given fixing the interference I talked about a try. I'll also swap out the analog signal cable from the DAC to the VGA connector and use a shielded one instead, I think I see some signs of signal bleeding.

Ah, thanks for the tips! Tried the [ IMG] tag first, but I couldn't get it to work. Perhaps there's some post count requirement to attach inline images? I'll give it another shot though, just in case it's a user related issue

[edit] There we go! It was user related after all.

 

Very very nice. And is also cheap, the ic is 3-4 pounds on ebay. My opinion is that it's nicer to use the original connector for RGB.
It will be cool if someone makes a custom PIF so you'll have a region free n64.

 

Thanks!

Yeah, of course you could disconnect the original DAC and use the A/V connector, but installing another connector gives me the option to use the original signal types too if I want to for some strange reason. Also, installing a D-sub is probably a lot easier than disconnecting the original DAC without damaging anything

The console in itself isn't worth all that much, so I didn't really mind making a hole for the D-sub connector in it either.

 

Swapped out the cables between the DAC and the VGA port for shielded ones. The new cables are parts of an extremely thin coax that used to carry the wlan signal from the antenna in an old laptop, knew it was a keeper when I scavenged that laptop for useful stuff before throwing it away
There's only a small improvement in picture quality, but every little bit of quality enhancement is welcome, so it was definitely worth the trouble.




I promised some screenshots. They really don't do the mod justice in my opinion, when looking at the TV yourself the difference is much more significant, but here they are.

S-video first:






And here are some RGB shots:




If one looks closely, there's some ghosting visible. It's my TV that introduces that on all analog connections, even VGA. It's been doing that since it was new, and I never got around to get myself a new TV on the guarantee.

I might do some work on the cable if I get some time to spare tonight, I did a quite sloppy work with it, I just wanted to hook up the N64 and try it out as soon as possible

 

Very nicely done! I've been meaning to do the same mod to my PAL N64 (just ordered a Xilinx USB programmer), but have been travelling about too much lately to do so.

 

Thanks!

If you want to save a few bucks, cancel that order and build this instead. I used the one I made for programming a few glitch chips for the 360 some time ago, worked perfectly for this CPLD too

 

Already in the post from China. I'd rather just use it than find a USB to LPT adapter that actually works!

Did you use all 560 Ohms resistors or a combination of 560 and 280 Ohms?

 

Ah, you're right, most new motherboards don't even have a parallel port. I'm still on an ancient P4, so I didn't think of that

Used only 560 ohm resistors, the shop I bought them from didn't sell them in smaller numbers than 100. I rather have 40 spare 560 ohm resistors it'll take years to use up than 79 each of 560 and 280 ohm ones. 280 ohm is probably hard to get hold of too, as it's not a standard E12 value.

Also, there's plenty of room in the N64, so it's not really a concern if the R2R ladders takes up some more space. But of course, it's always a good thing to keep the component count down as much as possible

 

OK, I was just wondering, as I was having some trouble finding 280 Ohm ones at a reasonable price anyway.

 

RS Online got them. I'm on their Swedish page though, so I doubt a link will help you a lot, but you can try a search on the article number: 683-3415.

They're 2.5 mm in diameter, so at least in theory you should be able to mount them standing up on perfboard the same way I did (if that's what you're gonna use of course). The distance between the holes is normally 2,54 mm.

 

Hi, I have 2 questions about this programmer:

1- What software did you use with this programmer?

2- The LPT is front view or rear view?

Thank you.

Sorry for my english, I speak a very little

 

Does this method of RGB modding a N64 work on ALL regions and models? As far as I can see the original guide doesn't say that it only works on EU consoles

Have you tried turning down the sharpness on your TV? I don't want to sound like an ass but your screenshots look terrible. It looks like you did a good job modding the console, so I'm sure that's not the problem

 

Works for all n64's from all regions

 

Great! Thank you very much.

 

What does it do????

Hey guys,

Ive owned a n64 for a few years now and have heard about the RGB mod (not trying to sound like a n00b) but what does it do????

 

It gives a MUCH better picture, and prevents eye-cancer.

http://www.disgruntleddesigner.com/chrisc/gotRGB/screenshots.html

 

The parts for this mod is starting to arrive. And unfortunately this causes some confusion for me that I hope someone here will be able to clear up.

The ICs I ordered were these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300727477821?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
- It should be the right number, but comparing them to the pictures of the mod in the first post they are TINY. About half the size I would guess. Will they work just as good? I should be able to solder these with no problems.

As for the programmer I got this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xilinx-Plat...772?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2e9a2afc
- Looks like it might be some kind of china knock-off because it varies a little from the ones on Xilinx's webpage. It also doesn't come with any software or informations which is even more annoying for someone like me who never programmed anything
As far as I can understand I need either ISE or WebPACK for this to work. But really, more specific help would be greatly appreciated. I'm running windows 7 64bit.

I also got a socket for the ICs today but appart from being the wrong size it's also the wrong shape. This one fits 9 by 7 ICs. Not really important, but it would have made the programming part easier.

Speaking of programming. It looks like I'm now resolved to soldering the wires on the chip when programming. Shouldn't be a problem, just time consuming. The programmer comes with various wires and adaptors. One of these has 7 loose wires labeled:
VREF, GND, INIT, TCK, TDO, TDI and TMS.

Am I correct in assuming that I just wire the VREF to all the VCC, GND to all the GND and the rest to the according pins in this pinout?:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/n64rgb/cpldpinout.txt

That would leave INIT unused. Would that be the correct way to hook up the chip to the programmer?

Thanks