And the Aladdin XT became a decent modchip!

where are you uploading CPLD code? Also can you still solder a wire from BT to GND to get the Aladdin to be always on like normal? Thank you for this!

 

The CPLD code is written to the Lattice LC4032V. There's a newer file than that listed in bennydiamond's first post on this thread.

Work continued in a different thread - [MOD] Aladdin XBlast.

rso posted a new link to the Aladdin_XBlast.zip archive as the dropbox URL bennydiamond posted only returns a 404 error - File Not Found.

A JTAG programmer connects to 3.3V, TDO, TMS, TCK, TDI and GND. PC software, urJTAG, sends the new SVF file via the modchip's JTAG port to update the control code of the Lattice CPLD, part number LC4032V, seen on the Aladdin XT plus 2 modchip. Three signals pads are on the component side and three more on the back side of the Aladdin chip. See the docs in the archive, AladdinXT_Newcode_v2.zip, in the first post of this thread.

There's a second piece to this update. The Aladdin XT plus 2's SST 49LF020A (256KB x 8) flash memory chip is replaced with an SST 49LF080A (1MB x 8) flash memory chip pre-programmed with the XBlast_OS v0.50 or recently released XBlast_OS v0.55 BIOS.

IIRC, BT to GND, always on, still works with the updated CPLD code.

 

It's always on anyway. BT and LT pads force the bank that gets loaded for recovery mode, don't add those

 

I went to the electronic shop and the guy said how many volts does the capacitors(loopf) need and how many watts does the resistors(100 ohms) need? if he gave me wrong parts, it might burn up the PCB board. can you give me a full list of schematics for lattice_parallel_cable_sch.pdf?

 

6V3 or 16V capacitors should work fine. Anything with a higher voltage is fine as well. They are just bigger and they cost more.
The smallest wattage resistors are fine. Usually this is 0.10W or 0.25W
Anything with a higher wattage will also work, but again, they are bigger and are more expensive.

 

Small correction. Maybe it's best to use at least 0.25W for the 100 ohm resistors.

 

What obcd said (was writing my own reply). 0.25W is also called 1/4W and for the caps you might like to keep them close but ABOVE the voltage that they are gonna see. so cheap, but above 5volt is best (we hope to see 3.3, but if something goes wrong, the caps dont blow when you choose higher.) 100volts is overkill (that dont even work I gues).

Show the guy the schematic he should understand it. I asume vcc is at 3.3volts

 

I already showed him the schematic. he told me find out how many watts and volts those electronic components (parts) on the lattice parallel cable. thanks in advance.

 

The lattice_parallel_cable_sch.pdf is the complete schematic. I think you are looking for the BOM - bill of materials listing all the components used to build the circuit. You'll have to make a list of components from those shown in the schematic. Print out a copy and create a BOM from it.

Component Ratings: Resistor Wattage and Capacitor Working Voltage

Watts rating of a resistor is the maximum power it is rated to dissipate. The value is based upon the voltage drop across it and current running through it. Using a larger wattage rated resistor than required will not burn up a board. Larger wattage resistors will be more expensive.

It's not the quite the same rating as a heating device - soldering iron. The soldering iron is made to give off heat. In a circuit, a resistor is used to limit the current (i.e., LED current limiter) and heat is generated by doing so.

Value / Symbols / Units
Power / P / Watts
Voltage / V / Volts
Current / I / Amperes (amps)

Ohm's Law V (volts) = I * R, I (amperes) = V / R and R (Ohms) = V / I

Power (watts) = V * I

substitute V = I * R or I = V / R from Ohm's law to get

P = (I * R) * I = I^2 * R, or
P = V * ( V / R) = V^2 / R

A capacitor's working voltage rating (dielectric breakdown voltage) is the maximum voltage to be applied across the plates.

-||- (capacitor symbol)

Some capacitors are polarity sensitive (electrolytic and tantalum caps) and must be installed correctly or be damaged - worst case scenario they blow up when power is applied to the circuit.

-|(- (electrolytic capacitor symbol)

The flat plate is connected to the positive (+) higher voltage level in the circuit. A + symbol next to it.
Can't easily place a + there with ASCII text that looks right: ±|(- The other terminal (curved plate) connects to the negative (-) lower voltage level in the circuit. Not all schematics show the negative terminal with a curved plate. The + symbol next to one plate for electrolytic or tantalum capacitor will always be indicated since they are polarity sensitive devices.

Not all capacitors are polarity sensitive and will have no polarity indicator.

If the circuit's supply voltage is 3.3V (3V3) then a 6.3V rated dielectric breakdown voltage (WV - working voltage) capacitor will work as will a 16V capacitor. A 1000V rated cap will work too but will probably not fit on the circuit board as it's much larger than a 6.3V rated cap and more expensive.

 

There are 5 100pF capacitors and 1 100nF capacitor. None of those should be polarised, and I doubt you will find some with a maximum voltage lower than 50V. The guy in the shop obviously doesn't know shit about electronics if he couldn't figure out those values himself looking at the schematics. VCC isn't filled in, but as they use 2 TTL circuits, the VCC voltage likely won't exceed 12V. Knowing that the CPLD normally runs at 3V3, it's the most logical VCC. 5V might work as well, but you should carefully check and read the CPLD datasheet to see if the chip can be powered and programmed with 5V. Maybe the voltage is even already specified as being 3V3 in the JTAG description.

 

I will buy the electronic components and show you a picture soon and make sure if you give me the right parts.

 

He said he will order 2n74als02, sn74vhc244, and holes copper board So I will put on his face.

 

They shouldn't be that expensive. You probably want trough hole components and not smd types.
Those resistors look fine. You can't see the capacitors well on the picture.

 

74VHC244 Vcc supply voltage min 2.0, typical 5.0, maximum 5.5 volts
74ALS02 Vcc supply voltage min 4.5, typical 5.0, maximum 5.5 volts
VCC for the main portion of the programmer = 5.0Vdc

The 100pF caps look good - 50V ceramic discs. The 100 Ohm 1/4Watt resistors shown will work. I don't think 2% tolerance resistors are necessary but if that's all they have available... I think 10% even 20% tolerance value resistors will work. Price and availability are more of the determining factor which to use to build this programmer. Same goes for the 5 - 10KOhm and 1 - 220Ohm resistors.

And, I thought the VCC (programming voltage) of the JTAG/ispDownload connector on the right was split, separate from the rest of the circuit's VCC rail. I know they are all labeled VCC in the PDF. The CPLD's VCC can be at a different voltage level than the other components of the programmer. In this case, 3.3Vdc for the Lattice LC4032V.

I'm not sure if the 3.3V pad on the Aladdin XT plus 2 ties to the 3.3V line, pin 9, of the LPC debug port.


Source: http://icode4.coffee/?p=22

If so, the Xbox can be used to power the CPLD installed on the pin header without requiring a separate power supply to power the CPLD while programming.


Note: Ground (GND) of the PC and Xbox need to be tied together before powering on the Xbox to reprogram the CPLD. (The Xbox's shielding cage is tied to ground - alligator clip terminated jumper wire.)

Update: There are a couple of items not shown in the schematic. These are the Vcc and ground pins of the two integrated circuits (ICs): 74VHC244 and 74ALS02.

74VHC244: Vcc - pin 20 and GND - pin 10

74ALS02: Vcc = pin 18 and GND - pin 9


Pin 1 is marked with a circlular indent next to it and/or a groove/notch in the middle of the plastic housing on the end with pin 1.

The number of pins depends on the particular logic chip. (14, 16, 18, 20, and 24 pins are typical for logic ICs)

 

I agree.
The right side VCC on the pdf schematic should be VCCJTAG. For the LC4032V, it's indeed 3V3.
The parallel port output voltages are 5V, so the left VCC supply should be 5V since that's the minimum operating voltage of the 74ALS02.
And, the voltage at the input's of a 74HC244 should not exceed VCC + 0.6V. This again points into the direction of a 5V VCC.

 

What should we do? I got this at the electronic shop and this is a long 25ft cable. Should cut the top Db25 Parallel port or bottom part.

 

The DB25 looks like a type of which you can't open the shells. If you cut it off, it's trash.
I would keep the db25 together with the needed end of the cable.
The other centronics connector is not that usefull anymore.
It will take a bit of measuring to figure out which wire is connected to which pin.
A DB25 female connector can help as it's easier to measure on the solder lips of such.

 

i agree, the centronics connector that has 18 each side which time it by 2 is 36metals if i should solder those metals or pins when trying to build a JTAG programmer cable not usb. need some tips what we sould do? dont cut it. i have a digital multimeter. so if connect male db25 into the female db25 port on pc while on, use the multimeter and probes/lead which have two wires red and black and put the tip or pokey part on the centronics connector pin.

 

Don't leave the cable full length. The wires running parallel to each other will form capacitors that will disturb the signals during programming.
I was thinking about plugging a free female db25 into the male db 25 cable plug. It's much easier to hold your meter probe on the solder lips of a free connector than to hold them against the round pins of the DB25 connector. You just have to figure out which wires are connected to the pins used by the programmer. I assume you have a meter with a continuity tester. (Something to measure resistors.)

 

I don't understand what you mean in your quote.