And the Aladdin XT became a decent modchip!

Let say I bought this online from
https://www.showmecables.com/36-pin...WRiAPQLdE7zOPcYbz5K9b87fcHFYcd1hoC9ZAQAvD_BwE

And put it on the 36male pin centronic connector and im not sure how to solder that 36 pin female connector if i took the hood off it(please check image I ink it with red) and use that to build a lattice JTAG programmer cable.

I will figure it out somehow

 

If you cut off the Centronics connector or unsolder all the wires you'll need to check the continuity for the 25 wires soldered to the DB25M (male) connector of the cable. Plugging the DB25M into the DB25F connector you showed in your earlier electronics component purchases will make it easier to test.

You'll be able to touch one multimeter probe to the solder cups (obcd's lips) on the back of the DB25F connection easier than the pins and the other probe to each wire that went to the 36-pin Centronics connector.

The wires may be color coded inside the outer jacket and possible stranded shield but they may all be the same color. You'll need to label them to know which wire goes to the DB25M pin 1 to 25 to build the programmer.

You could just get a 25-wire straight through DB-25M to DB-25M cable and a right-angle PC mount DB-25F connector for mounting to the protoboard. Thus, eliminating the destruction of a parallel printer port cable and having to trace the conductivity of all the wires.

Note: this cable is not a serial cable with less than all 25-wires connected inside. Most serial cables only have 9 wires connected between the DB-25M ends not all 25.

 

if you don't mind, can you tell me what are these "-strobe", "-autofeed", "D0", "-Error", "-Init", "-selectIn", "GND(ground)", "-Ack", "Busy", "PaperOut", and "Select".

 

<= in DB25 Cent Name of Reg
=> out pin pin Signal Bit Function Notes
------ ---- ---- -------- --- ------------------------------
=> 17 36 -Select C3- Set Low to select printer
=> 16 31 -Init C2+ Set Low pulse > 50 microSec (uS) to initialize printer
=> 14 14 -AutoFd C1- Set Low to autofeed one line
=> 1 1 -Strobe C0- Set Low pulse > 0.5 uS to send data (D0-D7)

<= 11 11 +Busy S7- High for Busy/Offline/Error
<= 10 10 -Ack S6+ IRQ Low Pulse ~ 5 uS, after accept
<= 12 12 +PaperEnd S5+ High for out of paper
<= 13 13 +SelectIn S4+ High for printer selected
<= 15 32 -Error S3+ Low for Error/Offline/PaperEnd

=> 2 2 Data 0 D0 Set to least significant data
=> 3 3 Data 1 D1 ...
=> 4 4 Data 2 D2 ...
=> 5 5 Data 3 D3 ...
=> 6 6 Data 4 D4 ...
=> 7 7 Data 5 D5 ...
=> 8 8 Data 6 D6 ...
=> 9 9 Data 7 D7 Set to most significant data
(These data lines can be output only for a standard printer port or input/output for a bi-directional printer port.)

A + in front of a signal name indicates an active HIGH control line, and
a - in front of a signal name indicates an active LOW control line.

Source: http://www.janaxelson.com/files/ibmlpt.txt

More parallel printer port links and information at http://www.janaxelson.com/parport.htm

Not sure the printer port control line names have much bearing on their use for the Lattice programmer design. The PC's parallel printer port input/output hardware is controlled by Lattice's programming software to drive the port's control lines as required to program the CPLD via a serial JTAG port.

 

The electronic guy can't find those parts.

 

He must not be much of an electronics guy!

There are lots of sources for these parts

try https://www.mouser.com, https://www.digikey.com, or https://www.jameco.com
All of these sites have a search function to find parts.

https://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=74vhc244
all are surface mount components not DIP (dual in-line package).

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=74vhc244
again surface mount 20pin packaging.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/SN74AHC244N
will probably be a good substitute in a 20-pin DIP through-hole package for the VHC part instead of the smaller 20-pin surface mount package. I can't make out any markings on bennydiamond's DIY programmer for the 74???244 chip. DM74LS02N for the other IC is easy to make out from the image in his detailed procedure.pdf but not the 20-pin chip - 74???244 - just see BLACK no writing on it.

There are so many different logic families anymore -- LS, ALS, AC, HCT, HC, VHC, AHC, VHCT, and on and on.

For the time it's taking and probably money spent thus far, you could have already purchased and received one of the Lattice parallel-port programmers, HW-DLN-3C, off of eBay or one of the many USB JTAG programmers. You might not learn as much as you will be building your own, but... the LC4032V CPLD would already be updated and the Aladdin XBlast modchip installed in your Xbox. Well, maybe as you also need to flash the XBlastOS (v0.55) to a 49LF080A, replacing the 49LF020A shipped with the modchip, using a tl866cs programmer or by other methods listed in the documentation by bennydiamond before installing it.

 

The wires you are using to connect the modchip are way to thick. We don't have a clear view upon the way they are soldered, which is usually where things go wrong. The thicker the wire, the more difficult it is to solder them properly on the pcb testpoints and via's. Did you follow the install instructions for a 1.6 xbox version?
And finally, you should never touch the internals while the power plug is connected. You should even not connect your display video connector. The xbox power cable doesn't have a ground. This makes it's gnd floating, it can carry some voltage on it's chassis. If you touch some of the electronics inside, the voltage finds a current path trough your body to GND. This can damage the electronics. So, you should always connect your power plug last. If you intend to hotswap your harddrive to a pc, you need to properly connect your pc chassis to the xbox chassis with a wire first. Your pc is properly grounded so it's chassis isn't carrying any voltage. Connecting both chassis together with a wire ensures that they are both on the same potential (voltage) so that no unexpected currents flow when you connect the xbox powered harddrive to the pc ide port.
I am just summing up all things that can potentially go wrong with a hotswap and modchip install. I am sure you can figure out which mistakes you made.

 

make sure that the aladdin xt plus 2 is plugged into the 2x6 pin header properly. It is easy to get the header off by a pin or two front-to-back and have it only connected to 8 or 10 of the wrong pins not the 12 correct pins or off by 1 pin left-to-right as well.

Code:

LPC Debug
pin header
12 - 11+=======+
10 - 09|12 S 11|
08 - 07| M o C |
06 - 05| o c h |
04 - 03| d k i |
02 - 01| - e p |
       |02 t 01|
       +=======+

For example, off by a row to the front of the Xbox case and 1 column to the right only connects pins 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 of the LPC Debug port to the wrong pins of the modchip: 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12, respectively.

It is easier to get off 1-row front-to-back than side-to-side when seating (installing) the modchip onto the header. But, I have done both.

Therefore, make sure that the socket is aligned properly above the pin header before seating the modchip. And, double check your work before powering on the console.

 

Resoldered successful: I still need to flash the bios. I hope that electronic guy has those parts already because want to make a jtag programmer already.

 

tried the donate to bennydaimond PayPal. I took a screenshot. lmao it say fuck PayPal.

 

Yeah well Paypal gave me hell when I began selling my modchips. I figured I would leave the "donation" link there just for the fun of it. I might take it off though.

Anyway, I appreciate the kind intention, thank you.