Building an AV switchbox - electronic or analogue switching?

That's right, the top board is the output bus.

That looks right, yup.

I noticed that the green lines are drawn over the top of the resistors? They represent electrical connections, so they should finish on one side of the resistor, and continue on the other side.

Otherwise, it looks like you're off to a good start!

There are a number of good Eagle tutorials on Youtube, you should check them out some time!

 

Cool, I thought that was how you built the boards

Thanks as well for confirming the circuit - I threw it together quickly which is why the resistors were plonked on top of the lines and the dodgy IC I indicated with a wire frame With everything confirmed I'll create the object/package/etc and insert it into the master schematic, as I had to do the same thing for a couple of components for my project.

As you pointed out, there are some great tutes on YouTube for Eagle - I watched a handful of them to learn some of the basics and how to create new components, but I know I'm only scratching the surface of the software though.

So with your boards wired up how far away are you from adding some sockets into the mix? Looks like it's making some excellent progress!

Edit: Stupid question (yes, another one ) - should I use two 4511s to drive a 2-digit 7 segment display (i.e. 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10) or utilise something like a DS8669 (datasheet) that's specifically designed for this purpose? I've seen the former used elsewhere so I'm happy to go down that road, but wanted to pursue best practice where possible.

 

Ah, good stuff re: Eagle.

For mine, I am making the backplane at the moment. Just a piece of sheet metal with holes for the SCART sockets. I'd say it's a week or two away yet, I only get to work on it properly on weekends.

For all intents and purposes, DS8669 is just two 4511's in a single package. Just get whatever's cheaper or more convenient. If you need to save space on your PCB, maybe get the dual one, otherwise it doesn't really matter.

 

Sounds like progress is coming along nicely for yours by the sounds of it. Out of interest, where are you sourcing your SCART sockets from?

Thanks again for confirming the details around the 4511s - I reckon I'll just use two of them since they're easy to come by and I don't think space on the PCB will be too much of an issue either.

 

Element14:

http://au.element14.com/pro-signal/psg01600/pcb-mounting-scart-right-angle/dp/1280722

 

Hadn't heard of Element 14 before, though it looks like that's where Calpis was pointing me towards for the relays! Always meant to go back to that link to see what other stuff they had. Will go and have a look at the other stuff they have available too!

 

They'll always be Farnell to me!

 

Move to the UK then: http://uk.farnell.com/?CMP=ffp-sm-flag-uk

Element14 has mountains of stuff. $12 flat postage for orders under $45, free postage for orders $45 or over.

Double-check though, RS Components are cheaper on some items, but not usually by much.

 

The backplane has been cut to size. Next step is to make some holes for the SCART sockets.

 

Awesome, in addition to the traditional stalwarts (Jaycar and Futurlec) I now have RS Components and Element 14 to take my money

Will be keen to hear how you cut the holes for your SCART sockets, as I'm a little unsure how I'll go with that part of the build!!

 

I'll be using a nibbler. Easiest way to make square holes in sheet metal.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TH1768

 

Ooooh, I need to get me one of those!

 

Second coat of paint is on!

One more coat with a brush, then fine-grain said, then last coat with a roller.

 

Nice to see it taking shape!

I've actually gone back to my original circuit and am re-doing it. After getting more familiar with Eagle and switching my display setup to use a combination of 14- and 7-segment displays, I figure I'd leave the original circuit and start fresh. So far the layout is looking much better than my first version - better spacing and less confusing use of connections and what-not. Have also introduced some better ways to handle +5v and +12v buses. Gotta love being anally retentive!

 

I'm now using my Sony PVM-2950QM for my console setup. So instead of a SCART-out on my switch box, I'm going to have BNC connectors for RGB and C-Sync, and RCA for audio. I'll also need to add an LM1881 sync stripper, since apparently this model doesn't like composite video as a sync source.

As an added bonus, I've just discovered this:

http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php?topic=64875.msg500556#msg500556

I could use the Control-S jack on the back of my PVM to automatically select the correct input. Man, that would be god tier.

 

SCART input sockets added!



Made a slight mis-calculation with the width of the first 3 ports, but they are supposed to be slightly higher than the rest, due to the way the case structure is shaped.

And now, for a shitload more soldering joints. Yay!

 

Intend to do any serial production and take orders?

Lol, only joking, but seriously cool project if you need to swich a crapload of analogue inputs!

 

No, but the design will be open, and all the components are off-the-shelf.

 

Looking fantastic mate!! I'm a little intimidated by the amount of soldering required for yours, and I know mine will be a little more crazy!!

Out of interest are you using shielded cables on your RGB wires? I was planning on using shielded cabling on all my video signals but wasn't sure whether I should do the same for the sync signal. Wasn't going to worry about it for the switch/blanking wires as well (I've decided Im going to be paranoid and have modified my schematic to include relays to carry both of these as well, so that increases the relays on my RGB switching to 8 per input).

It's awesome that you'll be releasing all your work to the community - I'm aiming to do the same for mine as well under a CC-NC license. Well, assuming I can put together a schematic and some board layouts that don't look too embarassing!!

 

I'm using mini-coax cables for R G and B, pilfered from VGA cables, to go between the SCART sockets and the PCB, and from the output PCB to the BNC connectors.

Plain wires for composite and audio though.