Chrono Trigger Japanese to English

Hey guys and girls,
I've decided to try my luck with another conversion so I bought a Japanese version of Chrono Trigger to use as the donor thinking it would be easiest for a beginner.
Turns out the PCBs differ as can be seen from the scans, Japanese has got an extra Mask ROM
U0 P0 (36 pin)
U1 P1 (32 pin)

Chrono Trigger USA SHVC-1J3M-20
http://www.snescentral.com/pcbboards.php?chip=SHVC-1J3M-20
Chrono Trigger JAP SHVC-BJ3M-20
http://www.snescentral.com/pcbboards.php?chip=SHVC-BJ3M-20

What I've tried so far
1) Removed the Japanese chip and soldered the English version in it's place- U0 P0 while leaving U1 P1 intact
2) Removed Japanese U1 P1 chip

Both have been unsuccessful, all I get is a black screen. I'm hoping there's a way to disable the U1 P1 so I can get this going?
Thank you very much

I am looking and trying to make sense of the following:
http://wiki.superfamicom.org/snes/show/Schematics,+Ports,+and+Pinouts
MAD-1 Pinout

The MAD-1 stands for Memory Address Decoder revision 1. It is used for memory mapping in both HiROM and LoROM. And is used for battery power control on a static RAM.

/HI 01=======================16 /LOW
SRAM /CS 02=================15 A15 (LoROM), A13 (HiROM)
NC 03=======================14 BA4 (LoROM), A14 (HiROM)
ROM /OE 04==================13 BA5
SRAM Vcc 05=================12 Vcc or BA6 (LoROM), A15 or BA6(HiROM)...
Vcc 06=======================11 /CART (pad 49 on cartridge edge)
resistor to +3V of battery 07=======10 GND=LoRom, Vcc=HiROM
GND 08======================09 /RESET (pad 26 on cartridge edge)

/HI <--- if two ROM chips, this selects the upper one
/LOW <--- if two ROM chips, this selects the lower one

Verified & Simplified by kyuusaku
Pin 9 is A
Pin 10 is B
Pin 11 is C
Pin 12 is D
Pin 13 is E
Pin 14 is F
Pin 15 is G

The Logic (Invert Outputs)
==========================
Pin 1 is G E C' A + E C' B A
Pin 2 is G F E D' C B A + G' F E D C' B' A + SRAMVCC'
Pin 3 is G F E' D' C B A + G' F' E D C' B' A
Pin 4 is G C' A + C' B A
Pin 16 is G E' C' A + E' C' B A

The part where pin1 on the MAD-1 selects upper chip looks interesting. Maybe it needs to be connected elsewhere as I don't want it to select the upper ROM chip

 

Wich eeprom are you using?

 

29F032 with the tsop adapter
(Seiken Densetsu 3 worked fine as both USA and JAP carts have one ROM chip)

 

Try this
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/converting-mother-2-cart-to-earthbound/ I did a chrono trigger and I only removed the first mask ROM and I used this guide removed the two pins and soldered directly to the mad 1 chip and it worked.

 

Thank you very much. I've been searching high and low while waiting for a reply and didn't bother to check that great website :$
Will give this a shot tomorrow when I'm home

EDIT: Thanks bochu all good now <3

 

I have a copy of the Japanese Chrono Trigger but my copy looks a lot like this:

Is the procedure basically the same or is there an easier less SMD intensive chip I can use?

 

That one should be easier, no need for rewiring

 

Now I have to look for a seller.

 

Hi guys, I am in the same situation as OP was back in the day. Saw this post, tried the guide from MMonkey's, but it has not worked for me. Now, I have a cart similar to the US chrono trigger on the way, but still, if anyone has any ideas why it's not working for me, I'd be happy to know.
I have tested for continuity on every pin, everything is seemingly fine, so I'm not sure where to go from there.
Could also mention that it is the retranslated version, but that shouldn't matter, or should it?

 

More detail? flash and pcb

 

Sure, it says 29F033C. The pcb is the same adapter board "everyone" uses. https://imgur.com/cwNEd2S

 

It's been a while since I've done this, I ended up cutting the traces and rewiring.
Looks like you've gone with the rewiring but instead of removing the headers from PIN2 and PIN 13 you left them in? Which means PIN 2 will still be connected to ground and PIN 13 to MAD-1 16?? That's all I got, show us the picture of the whole cart - front and back

 

That's not it. As you can see from the pic, I started with cutting traces, or rather, trying to cut traces. In the end I opted for cutting the legs of pins 2 and 33. And as I've said, I've continuity tested everything, pins 2 and 33 are only connected to the mad via the jumper wires. https://imgur.com/JrOpKh7

Perhaps I should mention that when I say I continuity tested everything, I mean that all the pins on the adapter board are connected to something on the main pcb, I haven't found any schematics, so it is possible the fault is somewhere else, but I doubt it.

 

I see, in that case yeah you should probably test continuity from the Mask ROM to the cartridge connectors
For example Mask ROM Pin1 should be connected to edge connector 45
I take it the donor was working fine before you removed the original Mask ROM? In that case maybe there's a problem with one of the solder joins.

 

Yes, I thought about that, but I have no idea of the pinout. Is every mask rom pin connected to the cart connector?
Yes, the donor cart was working fine. I suppose there could be an issue with a joint, but I already reflowed all of them.

 

PIN 33 is connected to MAD-1 but yeah every other should be connected to something
Shouldn't be too hard to find them all yourself.
PIN 1 is connected to 45
PIN 2 is GND
PIN 3 is 42
PIN 18 is GND
PIN 35 is GND
PIN 36 is VCC

 

Spent hours testing for continuity, about to throw the board out the window....
https://imgur.com/a/Zi9ao made this, based on https://wiki.superfamicom.org/snes/show/Schematics,+Ports,+and+Pinouts this, to make it easier.
For pins 19-36, it's mostly good. Except for pin 35 (GND), everything is as in the schematic.
01-18 is another matter....
14-17 is like the schematic.
06-13 goes to pins 2-9 on the sram (does not go anywhere else that I can find).
02 goes to mad-1 and Cart46
01,03-05 is connected to nothing, except their comparable pins on mask rom 2.

 

I think I had mapped these a while back in a most basic non-technical way
Not sure if this is 100 % accurate but here it goes

Note that this is for HiROM games, LoROM pinout will be different

Mask ROM - Cart Edge Connector
01 - 45
02 - VSS, , on 1J3M goes to 46
03 - 42
04 - 43
05 - 40
06 - 37
07 - 10
08 - 11
09 - 12
10 - 13
11 - 14
12 - 15
13 - 16
14 - 17
15 - 19
16 - 20
17 - 21
18 - VSS

19 - 22
20 - 50
21 - 51
22 - 52
23 - 53
24 - 23
25 - 07
26 - 41
27 - 06
28 - 08
29 - 09
30 - 38
31 - 39
32 - 44
33 - MAD1-16, on 1J3M should be MAD1-04
34 - VCC
35 - VSS, on 1J3M goes to 48
36 - VSS

 

Thanks for the help, it's appreciated! Just tried to make some jumper wires according to that pin out, same result.
Spent too much time on it already, so that's it. For all I know there could be an issue with the rom, I have no way to verify it. Will have to wait for another donor board and try my luck with that.

 

No worries, it can be so many things. Have you verified the rom after burning? What's the game in question, did you test the ROM in Higan, does it play?
If you are in PAL territory you also need to worry about the cic. When you removed the original Mask ROM did you lift any pads?
You will find that you can spend hours on some of these but that's how you learn I guess.
It always helps to show photos of the entire cart from back and front