Component Out - How easy is it to accomplish?

Thats good for consoles that natively output RGB.

But if you are making your own RGB mod and cables for it, might as well put 8-12v down one of the wires.

or just disconnect it completely and manually change channel. It will default to 4:3

 

So that would involve removing the 8th pin from the SCART connector? If so I'd probably just do that then. Haven't tried that.

 

Yes, just desolder the wire in the scart end, so you can reattach it if you ever need to.

Should work just fine then, but you will need to manually switch channel.

 

Hmm, my TV has no "RGB" mode and removing the 8th pin just results in no image.

 

Weird, every TV I've had just works if you put it on AV1 (or 2, which ever it is). Pin 16 is RGB/Composite switching pin.

Options are the DC/DC converter then.

You can send me the lead with the PCE when we get around to it if you want.

 

I've found the 7374 here in Brazil. At least I think this is the one:

http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-434103571-ci-circuito-integrado-tda-7374-_JM

http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-435396211-tda7374-circuito-integrado-tda7374-promoco-_JM

What do you think? This seems legit?

 

How would I change this for use on the PCE, or is it suitable in the same way that it is on the N64 as per the mmmonkey guide?

 

-10 uF is too big for this amp, you only need 100 nF, and ceramic caps don't have polarity issues and are more reliable.
-The inputs *need* pull-up resistors to bias the amp, and if you do use polarized capacitors, + should be at the higher potential which is usually towards the amp. The only time you don't need the pull-up resistor is when you have a DC coupled signal (such as with N64), but with DC coupled signals you don't want to AC couple them with an input capacitor.
-You want the 100 nF cap decoupling the 5 V rail, it should be as close to the power in as possible.
-It's better to put the series output capacitor before the resistor.

 

Necro'ing this thread, has anyone got a nice RGB signal from their PCE or PCE-Duo? Have the THS7314 or 7374 worked out for anyone?

I just built the crude mmmonkey one using NPN transistors and got a blurry mess, simply unplayable.