I just did the superCIC on my SNES and as I didn't have the cutout for the larger game carts I decided to test it with the top shell off well all worked fine and I even had a quick go on super Mario RPG but then all of a sudden the console went dead and now nothing it wont turn on PSU is good showing 10+ volts on the AC Multimeter the regulator is showing nothing and the fuse I cant see how to test it im sooo gutted anyone have any ideas whats happened
It isn't the fuse then. I would say pics are required. If the voltage reg shows no output (it is marked under the board) something may be shorted or reg is dead.
just for reference when power is going into the console should the reg be tested in DC or AC current from what I can see the reg is a 7805
Use the DC volts range on the meter - with the front of the regulator facing you the left pin should the unregulated input and the right pin 5.0V
7805s are pretty common 3 for 99p on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3x-5V-2-2...441?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item51ad9b65a1 just make sure you put the new one in the right way lol
ah so you mean just a bog standard 7805 I have a pack of 100 here I will change and test in the morning
If it's a 7805, use a 7805. Obviously double check it's in spec, but just about any 7805 should work. Going for the same package makes it easy.
It's a 7805. You should already know the relevant specs (look at the PSU). Incidentally, ask yourself how you blew the regulator, if you don't want it to happen again. Did you do something wrong (e.g. a short) that might still be present? As for the short beep, what do you mean? You're testing it on continuity with NO power in the console, right? You should get the same result when testing the fuse as you do when touching the probes together... normally, that's a continuous beep.
Hi thanks every one for your help i temp fixed it The fuse had blown. Hence the short beep it's a temp fix as I only put a 1.5 amp wire on it can some one recommend a good fuse and not eBay seller simplesimon his fuses are duds asi already got some off him that didnt work as for how I did it, I think I touched something What are people's thoughts on using a 1.5amp resettable fuse
Look here at the end of the page under alternative fuse: http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/nintendo/snes-fuse.htm If you modify your SNES in that way you can just use the standard glas fuses.
It's a 1.5 amp picofuse. I really don't understand how he says he can't find any - he obviously didn't look very hard. Any decent electronics supplier should do them.. and there are loads (albeit expensive) on eBay.
No offence RETRO but its a little more than just that Every micro electrician knows that when working with components not always but most of the time specific ratings are needed to be adhered to you cant just grab any 1.5A picofuse and use it it needs to have specific ratings you cant use a 250v AC picofuse and yes they do exist on a 15v DC line etc, etc etc. as for POLYFUSES well I decided to test my theory before I tried this mod its a 1.5A Polyfuse rated to 15V DC and here it is Now for the person that is unsure what a POLYFUSE is, its a resettable fuse, what it does is it blows like any other fuse and this one is 1.5A so will function exactly like the original 1.5A Picofuse but here is the difference when it trips and blows once power is killed from the appliance (console in this case) the fuse will reset itself and can be repowered so now you never need to change the blown fuse just kill the power flick the SNES switch to drain its power and start again connecting the power obviously it will continue to blow over and over if there is an internal short but saves loads of money and time on continual fuse changes
Current blows fuses. Voltage needs to be same or higher. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(electrical)#Rated_voltage
yes I know that but shooting more voltage into a device that cant handle it will not exactly blow it but over heat and melt or burn it that's the point I was making
Might have blown the fuse if you didn't turn the system on/off before handling it, otherwise the capacitors hold enough voltage to fry your board if you handle it the wrong way. As you mentioned about the AC / DC earlier, the SNES inputs 9v AC and then converts to 9V DC to go into the 7805 to generate 5v DC that actually runs the console. Why they didn't use a standard 5v PSU in the first place, no idea.
Fitting a cartridge PCB backwards will cause the fuse to blow. FYI. Shorting a cartridge by mistake, same thing. Maybe the fuse was just old and decided to quit ? I like the polyfuse idea ! lol