Famicom | AV Mod

I was afraid that you were going to say that, guess I'd better get practising with my soldering iron. Would it be better to build the amp on a bread board or mount it on the mobo?

 

Directly on the PCB. The closer everything is together the better (but don't go overboard to miniturize it, the trouble isn't worth it). I would wire the transistor and resistors flat to the PCB, insulating them from the board with tape. The output can then be connected to the capacitor wherever convenient since it may get in the way of closing the case.

 

Closing the case is my main concern as there's not a great deal of room inside there, I've seen people using kapton and foam tape with mods like these would they be okay to use in order to try keep everything flat and tidy?

 

So your saying not to lift pin 21?

I know when I av modded my friends nes toploader only when I lifted pin 21 and soldered there all of the jail bars were gone,wish it was the same for my fami.

 

I think the old cliche "YMMV" applies here. Sometimes lifting pin works, sometime not. And various amp circuit posted earlier varies as well, it may depend on both the TV you're using and the specific NES or Fami board revision.

*YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary for those who don't know

 

Damn I want to buy a Famicom now just to try all these different options... You guys are cruel! :dejection:

 

Not because of jailbars--because soldering directly to the PPU is difficult to mess up and because it's non-invasive to the rest of the system.

 

Are you going to re-mod the one you did before? Jailbar free Spelunker would be very cool!! :encouragement:

So using pin 21 and lifting the leg with my setup could take me from very faint jailbars to no jailbars at all? That would be a pretty good incentive for using pin 21 :victorious:

 

It may or may not, jailbars aren't that simple. I suggest using pin 21, without lifting, because lifting a pin means commitment.

 

Depends on how you do it. If you used diagonal wire cutter and carefully snipped the pin at mid point to separate it, you could bend it back together and solder the bridge to restore it. Still, it's always YMMV

 

Sure you could restore functionality, but snipping is worse than lifting because it's literally irreparable to the chip, which does have innate value.

Lifting the pin doesn't guarantee a jailbar free image either.

 

If you snip it in the right place you can fix it with some solder or with a little wire.

 

I don't think I'm getting my point across. Snipping a leg does irreparable damage to the chip's condition. Since lifting a pin doesn't guarantee a jailbar-free image, I don't see the point in tampering with a 25-29 year old artifact for the sake of it.

 

Whats wrong with following the trace and cutting it in an easily accessible place or is that a no go with a famicom? Please note i have never seen a famicom in the flesh....

 

Because you want as short of a line as possible from pin 21 to get the best signal

 

Cut trace still solder to leg is how i should have put it.

 

Then you're damaging the PCB for no reason. It's not necessary to damage anything, or lose RF output, just solder the new amp in parallel with the existing amp by soldering to the pin -_-

Someday soon there'll be more horrific A/V modded FC than unaltered...

 

This has been my stand point from the very beginning, I don't really want to go around damaging or making extreme alterations to my Famicom for little or no gain, If I can get the best possible result without actually removing, cutting or disabling anything on the board then I'm all for it..

Plus I never got the "You must disable RF" thing, RF is still operational on my Famicom and I get a great (pretty much jailbar free) image from my amp, I am tempted to try soldering to pin 21, but I'm not comfortable lifting or cutting.

 

Hey Matisfaction,which revision is your famicom.

 

HVC-CPU-07, I posted a pic of the underside of the board on the first page of the thread if you want to check it out : )