Fixing a scph-1001

So at a recent trip to the swap meet picked up a launch a scph-1001. Reads audio CDs fine but won't boot any games no matter how much I adjust the drives polarity. Cleaned the whole cd lens completely still nothing. Read swaping drive from slim psone works. Tried it by using the one in my modded psone that works still nothing. So does anyone know where I can get a working cd drive or is there a way to fix the current drive that's in my launch scph-1001.

 

You are saying you fitted the PSone laser into the SCPH-1001 and it still didnt work? Because at that point, you should be realizing its not a drive issue.

Have you checked there isnt a failed modchip install or something on the main board?

 

Board seems fine and there are no traces of mod chip or installation. I have read that psone disc drives have to have their drives adjusted to work with scph-1001. But since that that drive is in my modded psone I don't want mess with the polarity.

 

Also when I put a burned game in it automatcly tells me to insert a ps disc. Only thing I do notice is that while CDs play fine and but right away, game will try to load then after a couple of seconds, drive stops and tries to load again at bios screen.

 

Polarity is incorrect term.

And I have never had to adjust a psone laser to make it work in a scph-1001.

It must be the pots on the motherboard (off the top of my head they are gain and bias)

 

One other possible cause is a problem with the BTL driver chip - I've seen a couple of them now that will work in x1 speed mode, but when the system tries to switch to x2 the disc just stops. This results in an effect just like the one you are describing (Audio CDs work, but no games will boot because when the console tries to read the license data from the disc, it does so in x2 mode, and this fails).

Note that this is a failure right at the start of the boot - if you get the black license screen with the PS logo coming up, then this is not your problem.

 

Never seen that failure state, but at the same time - I never test an audio cd if a game fails. Will keep that in mind for future fault finding though!

 

So there's no modchip? right?

 

MonkeyBoyJoey bought my PS1 with this exact same problem. I spent a few hours with TriMesh before selling it to Joey and we couldn't get it working. I suggest trying the old laser's spindle/motor and worm gear motor, as no others except the original would work on mine.

 

With my 1001 I modded the case a bit and dropped a 101 assembly in there. No adjustment needed.

 

Do you have a multimeter (and ideally...an oscilloscope or access to one)? You may want to check out this page (use your favorite translation resource like Google Translate if needed) - http://www.jonathandupre.fr/articles/articles.php?id=91&cat=13

I am guessing that the pots on the mobo need adjustment as Bad_Ad84 mentioned. They were probably not within range with the original laser, and are still not in proper range (because they are still set the same) with your replacement laser. If you stick with the replacement laser from the PSOne, you can skip boning up on the plastic guide rail issue and pick-up (no pun intended) the information on pot adjustment further down the page.

Be careful leaning over your Playstation with your probes in order to check values - You don't want to bridge something on accident with either your probes or a human appendage. You have mains coming straight into that thing.

 

Have this pdf here with test points and stuff for the Ps1, don't know if it's of any help but thought I'd share anyway..
http://www.slot1gamer.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/PlaystationX-Service-manual.pdf

also there is a raspberry pie prediction in there kinda hahah (this is an old pdf)

tips on adjusting bias and gain:
http://dogbreath.de/PS1/LaserAlignment/Laser.html

 

Don't mean to hijack the thread but THIS is exactly what my DTL-H1001 has!

Is there anything that can be done? Reballing? Replacing?

 

I thought your console was getting the black license screen with original discs and only failing to load with CD-Rs? Or did I misread that?

If it is this chip, you just need to replace it - it's in a wide SO package with heatsink tabs, and normally has a number starting with "BA".

 

I've replaced a few of them, it's not really that hard. Like I said earlier though, never realized it would read audio cds with that fault though.

 

I tried messing with the pots on the board but nothing's doing the trick. I'm afraid to adjust the pots on the board with the slim psone drive in as I don't want to ruin that one (just using it for test). Unfortunately I do not have a multimeter and not quite skilled when it comes to that stuff. Pots would be easy to adjust if it weren't for the fact the cd rests right over them. As for the audio cd's I'm not too surprised as its not as taxing on the laser as much as a game cd.

Again it recognizes when it's a proper US game but eventually just goes to bios menu and keeps attempting to reload after trying for a couple of seconds. Japanese scph-1000 have same issue with disc drive?

 

That's the exact problem I am having!!!!! No it never reaches the black licenses screen just eventually jumps to menu bios. What your describing is exactly what happens with the disc drive when it drives to switch up to 2x speed. Might not be worth the effort to get this chip from another regular ps1. Might end up just searching for another scph-1001 or just get a scph-1000 as it has s-video port and there is a trick for it like a scph-1001 where you can boot a game from another region.

I know I have a slim modded psone that works fine but I'm interested in the scph-1001 for link system support and external plugs for audio/video. I am guessing part of the reason it sounds better is due to this as I do notice the sound isn't quite as loud and clear through using the proprietary playstation a/v cable.

 

No not at all.

 

Yeah. No point replacing the chip unless you set the pots properly, first. Did you mark the starting positions of the pots before tweaking them? It sounds like you might want to return them to their original positions (if possible) and hand that system over to someone else for restoration. I think your idea of just finding another unit instead is a good one.

 

I made a video of the problem I'm having and I believe it's the same problem sayin999 is having.
Don't mind the mess on my working table.



and is that the IC I need to swap?