How do you connect all your consoles to your TV?

First of all, I use an old CRT TV.


I have two Joytech control boxes that I use. Being in Europe, I prefer to use SCART leads. The problem though, at the moment, is trying to extract the audio from the RGB SCARTs to the Hi-Fi system. It is obviously simple to do with composite cables but not with the RGB SCART cables...unless they happen to have separate breakout audio like my PS2 cable.


The Joytech boxes only pass though the signal from SCART to SCART, composite to composite, S-VIDEO to S-VIDEO and component to component. They won't allow me to INPUT SCART and OUTPUT Composite audio for example. So they are not helping me in this case.


I've looked at some SCART adapters with breakout stereo audio but they never mention if they actually support RGB signal and allow you to extract the audio from that. I've also not found a RGB SCART with breakout audio which I could connect from the Joytech box to TV and then the audio separately to the Amplifier.


Do you have any suggestions how to handle this? Do you know any switch boxes or adapters that will 100% surely do the trick for me?


And how do you connect all your consoles to the TV?

 

I don't know which consoles you've got, but I've got one of these cables which covers my original xbox, PS1/PS2, and N64/gamecube. It has audio inputs so you can send audio directly to your amp, and even works with light gun games! It really is an awesome cable.

For Sega stuff, I just change the cable behind the TV.

 

In recent years video quality has been more important to me. Still need to get a better way of using RGB on this XRGB mini.
It includes a Japanese adapter, but all my RGB cables are SCART.

 

i have a cheap scart switch box that has breakout for audio left right and composite video via rca jacks, it is "fully wired" so supports RGB

this is the one i have http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-way-SCA...ion_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item5d3ee9212e

works great, i have my consoles hooked up to that then to the tv and have the audio going from the scart block to a 5.1 sound system

also if one of the consoles or cables does not have a switching voltage, you can just switch on one of the other consoles and it'll use the voltage from that

eg my ps2 scart cable does not autoswitch so when i want to play it i just turn the saturn on to get the tv to switch to RGB.

 

I use a RCA switch box (I live in the States, and most of the old systems use that), which has another switcher plugged into it, and then the rest of the cables are labeled and hanging out. Usually my PS2, Laserdisc player and Genesis are plugged into the main one, and the rest vie for the second switch.

I'm looking for a 10+ input switch, but I haven't found one that's relatively cheap.

 

Not too bad an idea to get started.

I'd plan ahead. Study up on which systems can do what video.
1986 is a major cutoff point. Master System introduced out of the box RGB output to consoles in the States. (not counting computers)

 

I have a dual monitor setup for pre-last-gen stuff (everything from PS2/GC/Xbox back) and it's a big mess right now. One of the monitors is a 20" PVM, which I use for RGB. The other is a 22" CRT computer monitor, which I use for DC (via VGA) and Xbox, GC, and Model 3 via a scaler.

My setup is pretty complicated. I don't have a switchbox for RGB, so I have to manually switch the SCART cables. Also, I have only one cable for N64, SNES, and SFC, so I have to manually change that as well. I built a cable with female SCART on one end and 6 RCA on the other, which I connect to my PVM via RCA to BNC adapters (I do this because I sometimes use other RCA devices, and also because I couldn't find BNC connectors with soldering points). I have 2 different switchboxes for audio, one of which also switches between component sources. Most of my older consoles output audio through SCART, but some of them output audio through other means, hence the 2 switches. There are also 2 arcade superguns in the middle of all this. That's the PVM side.

On the VGA side, the computer monitor has 2 VGA inputs, one of which is connected to my DC, and the other is connected to a scaler which I use for Xbox, Wii, and Model 3 games. The scaler can switch between RGB (for the Model 3) and component, and both my Wii and Xbox are connected via component. Because I have so many audio sources, and despite my 2 switchboxes for audio, I still sometimes have to manually switch audio cables.

So yeah, it's very complicated at the moment. I don't believe anyone but me could figure how to operate this mess without a lengthy tutorial. It's a bit of a pain - using anything is like operating one of those old-timey telephone switch boards. I also have numerous controllers, so I have to dig through my pile of controllers every time I want to play a game too. I've thought of ways to make it simpler - like getting a SCART switchbox or two (although I'm worried that I might lose some quality this way), or getting an audio amp with multiple inputs (I'm currently using computer speakers). Ideally I'd like to have it set up so that I wouldn't have to manually switch anything, but that's a far off dream at this point. At any rate, it works, and it does its job very well. It's difficult, when you have this many different sources connected to 2 monitors, to have any kind of unity. It is what it is.

 

- Items in green are the ones you must manually switch
- Item in red have an automatic mode that will sense a valid feed and switch to it. You can also disable auto-mode to manually switch inputs.

Inputs still free on TV :
1 * Composite input
1 * HDMI input
1 * Coax input

Inputs still free on Surround sound system:
1 * TOSLINK input
1 * coax digital audio input
1 * RF coax input
4-5 * Stereo RCA inputs (don't remember how much, I don't use any)

The 4:2 automatic TOSLINK switch is a device I created myself. I don't think there is something similar without going into expensive pro equipment.

The device will lock on a valid input for as long as it is valid. Even if other inputs become valid, it'll stay on the same input if the feed validity doesn't timeout (around 100ms).I programmed it with a special rule so that the input coming from the TV as the lowest priority. In auto mode, if a device other than the TV is outputing a valid SP/DIF stream, the switcher will select that input even if the TV also outputs a valid feed. I made this because even if devices directly plugged into the switcher, they still produce an analog audio feed being sent to the TV. The TV repackage this analog feed and sends it on it's TOSLINK output. Now of course I wouldn't want to use the analog stereo feed over the native digital one so TV is the least priority device.

HDMI switch is one of those chinese device you buy on ebay. It have a TOSLINK out port and strip the audio feed from HDMI. It works OK because I have to manually switch input selection on this thing.I think that normal HDMI switches are automatic right? It does support HDMI-CEC, ARC, and Ethernet-in.

EDIT:
Pending systems to be installed:
- SNES (got to RGB mod it)
- PS3 (maybe if I really want to play Last Of Us)

 

Almost all consoles I have hooked up are connected through a SCART switch to a Sony Trinitron CRT TV and a JVC A/V receiver for sound, excluding the Xbox 360 which is connected to my PC monitor via VGA and the receiver via TOSLINK.

The SCART switch is some cheap no-name device (bought years ago at a discount supermarket) with 3 fully wired SCART inputs, one SCART output, a set of RCA inputs (composite + L/R audio), another one for output and some pushbuttons for input selection and RGB en-/disabling. Currently hooked up systems are a Super Famicom (via RGB), Japanese Saturn (in theory via RGB, but the cable is PAL, so... composite?), PS2 (composite) and Wii, with all but the Wii going through the aforementioned switch - the Wii is directly plugged into the TV via composite for a lack of an RGB cable, just like the PS2. The RCA audio output from the switch goes into one of the inputs on the A/V receiver, from where the audio goes into a pair of old stereo speakers.

It's an alright setup - the SFC looks and sounds great -, but the switch isn't of the best quality (ex. SCART cables come loose even more easily than usual with SCART), as mentioned I don't have RGB cables for all the systems, and the Saturn isn't modded for PAL SCART cables, not to mention the cable itself appears to have some loose contacts.

 

That is just crazy. But if it works for you that's great. Do you keep all your systems plugged in to power?

My systems are setup between a HDTV and a Sony PVM. The 360, PS3, and a PC are connected to the HDTV. Everything else to the PVM. I have a switcher for the PVM side audio and composite. For the PVM, it's mainly just switching which SCART cable is plugged in. However the NES, N64, and GameCube are composite video and those get switched between. So the audio switches between NES, N64&GC (shares a the same cable), SCART audio, and JAMMA audio. I don't have a SCART cable for the Supergun. But I suppose one could be fashioned if I cared enough to do so.

 

My setup (on an HDTV): everything goes through an XRGB-Mini except the Wii which only does component so I plug it directly into the TV.
Gamecube via the XRGB's D4 connector
Through the RGB SCART connector I attached a SELECTY-21, and I run the Super NES, Super Famicom, and Sega Genesis through there.
Then in the S/Video connector I have a JVC JX-S1000 which is a 9-way switcher that does composite and S-Video. All the rest of the N64s, Nintendo/Famicom, PC-Engine etc go through there.

EDIT: By the way, another good switcher if you're not interested in S-Video is the Kramer VS-120 which has 20 composite inputs and is electronic, not mechanical like the cheap Radio Shack junk.

 

I use Component for both PS2 and Wii- on a 42inch screen, AV looks horrible but somewhat acceptable only for Original Xbox. My PC screen has Component, AV and S Video sockets that are going to be used but I need an AV audio- 3.5mm Jack before doing so, as my monitor has no sound. Xbox 360 is HDMI, and only just reaches at that.

 

In my case, for every thing older than current gen, i shoved em in the closet and just use emulators, for the most part. There is the occasion where a game wonk work properly through emulation that ill have to pull the actual system out, but for the most part it works perfectly. Better than having tons of clutter everywhere in my living room, imo.

BTW, BennyDiamond.... that setup is quite impressive. That schematic is making my head hurt, lol

 

I built my own 12-way solid state RGB switch box, with SCART inputs, RCA outputs for audio/composite video/composite sync, and BNC outputs for Red, Green and Blue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH5M4Xj5-RY

 

i have multiple Svideo, Composite, and component switch boxes. I have a 2001 Samsung CRT.

The composite boxes are daisy chained together.

NES - composite
Famicom - composite
Super NES - S-Video
N64 - S-video
Gamecube - S-Video
Genesis - composite
Saturn - S-Video
Dreamcast - S-Video
Playstation - S-Video
Playstation 2 - Component
Xbox - Component

...Philllips CD-i - composite

I also have an LED Samsung 22" monitor with my Xbox 360 connected via HDMI, and another Xbox 360 connected to a 22" Viewsonic LCD monitor via VGA.

My family room has the Xbox 360 and PS3 direct into the TV via HDMI, and my Wii directly into the TV with component. All have audio out being fed to my home theater receiver.

 

Yes, everything is plugged to power at the same time. First, not all consoles are powered ON at the same time so circuit overloading is not really an issue. Plus, when I renovated the basement, I added a dedicated electrical circuit breaker only for my AV setup, so I have a full 15 amps breaker with about 2-3 meters of 14AWG copper wiring from the breaker panel to the quad outlets panel. those 4 outlets all have 6-ports power bar (with surge protection). Everything is already connected on the electric side as well as on the AV side. I don't want waste time plugging and unplugging devices. Plus each time you plug/unplug you wear down the connections and reduce life expectancy of those connectors.

Thanks, I know it's a little messy, I made this very quickly using lucidchart. I'll probably optimize it for my girlfriend. She just moved in with me and she'd like to play some retro games but she don't know how to operate it.

 

Even when the consoles aren't powered on, the power supply still sucks power. AC adapter gets warm for a reason. I have all of my consoles plugged into power strips and I leave them strips turned off unless I want to play, then I turn them on. You can google vampire load for more on this. The power draw varies from a few watts to almost 90 watts (PS3 and XBox 360)

Having 15 consoles (for example) plugged in and always powered even when they aren't on draws roughly the same as leaving a few 100 watts light bulbs on 24/7. When I put mine on the strips and started using the power switch to keep them from leeching power, my bill dropped by almost $30 a month

 

this is a good point, a quick bit of planning and some switching power strips is advisable

 

Yeah, I know there is still some power consumed even if consoles are powered off. Not much power for older consoles with mechanical switches that cuts power from the PSU but still a few Watts from the PSU itself. Newer consoles tend to eat more while idle but I really don't mind. Here in Quebec, price of electricity is not that bad : http://www.hydroquebec.com/residential/understanding-your-bill/rates/residential-rates/rate-d/

I just saw the national average for USA and I'm way under 11.92 cent/kilowatthour!

EDIT: You guys made me want to test how much every consumes while it's all OFF. I'm going to dig up muy old Kill-a-Watt clone to check this out!
I must admit that the GBS-8220, HDMI switcher and TOSLINK switcher are always ON. From a rough estimate , they might burn around 15W. VGA switches are mechanical, great devices for Chinese stuff! Oh and the Tritton Headset is OFF while I don't use it. The in-line volume control is just too bright and annoying when watching TV.

 

also i like resting my feet on the megadrive power bricks, nice and warm