How I got my DSP-1 installed and working.

So why doesn't someone become a distributor for the parts needed? Someone who can source the parts and peddle them here.

You could just package it as a Super Everdrive DSP Kit.

I tried forever to get a Super Everdrive with the DSP installed and barely missed the stock every time. I found a non DSP version and jumped on it.

If someone had offered such a kit with the DSP, Clock, 74HCU04 and an instruction card, I would have paid $20 to $25 for it, easy.

 

The problem with that is that there wouldn't be much profit in it when you take in account all the labor involved:

• Hunting down DSP equipped carts at a reasonable price. Say, in the $3 ~ $6 range. A lot of resellers think they can mark-up whatever they want just because something is retro. For example eBay, where you can buy super rare copies of Contra 3.
• De-soldering all the parts, which takes a bit of time specially if you don't have a heat gun and such.
• Printing a manual. $$$ Unless you do a really crappy one.

For $20 ~ $25 it's not worth it. If someone manufactures a DSP clone then it might make sense.

 

You wouldnt print a manual. Make it once and put it online.

But the rest applies. Too much work for too little gain

 

Mario Kart is too much of a shame for me to want to break, especially since I would want the DSP1 mainly for Mario Kart and maybe a little for Pilot Wings. Breaking an original Mario Kart just so I can play it off a ROM and a handful of other games that I don't really care about seems like a bad deal. I recently bought a copy of "Final Stretch" for my DSP1 needs.

I remember seeing somewhere that someone had broken a good Mega Drive game just to gut the case for the EverDrive board. I can't remember exactly which game, but I think it may have been Sonic 3 - in the mean time about 4000 copies of Columns and Ex-Mutants remain unharmed.

Having said all that, thanks to AtariBorn for the pictures all the same!

 

Well, I hope my post helped at least 1 or 2 people. That was my intention from the start. ;-)

 

Definitely helped me out. I wouldn't really know which way everything went and what I needed. Thanks Atariborn!

 

Hey guys

I've soldered things before, but I'm a novice when it comes to desoldering.

I'm trying to desolder the dsp1, quartz, and 74xx chip and I'm using a solder sucker. While heating the solder, I can't get it to suck the solder from the pads, I've tried everything. I think i may have held the iron on the white qurtz for too long also..Is there any techniques someone can share?

 

If you're using a desoldering "bulb", I can understand your frustration. Your best bet would be a spring loaded desoldering device, where you cock the spring back then hit a button to trigger the suction.

Never tried using a desoldering braid although I've heard good things.

You will still have to pry under the chips a little even after you've desoldered the pins. They're in there pretty tight. Just be gentle.

 

best way to desolder is a hot air gun or gas cooker.
edit: here is the some video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pVPg8ZJ_2c

 

Thanks for that. I'm using a spring loaded suction pump thing for desoldering in one hand, and holding the iron in the other hand.
But the sheer frustration of this process! I'm holding the iron on the pad to soften the solder, i then use the suction which gets some of it - but there's still some a tiny bit left in the hole, enough to keep the chip attached to the board. So annoying! The pins are so long on this chip which also doesnt help the suction

Then what else is weird is that i will hold the iron on some pads and the solder doesn't soften, but the chip is still scorching hot?! so the heat isn't melting the solder but is it still frying the chip?

The middle pin of the white quartz thing is impossible for me to desolder - i've tried everything. The solder on this pin just won't soften but the chip still gets hot?!

I just hope I haven't damaged anything with heat? What do you think?

Thanks Krikzz, god i wish i watched this video before i tried the method above. i just hope i haven't damaged anything!

 

Krikzz, the stove trick worked! Thanks.

Questions:
1) I just realised this guide is not for cart rev1.3 I have a v1.3 snes ed...so is there anything I can do with these 3 chips and solder them to the board?

2) can i check with multimeter to see if these chips are faulty?

EDIT: It's okay, forget it, just saw this post: http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showpost.php?p=541456&postcount=154

Apart from the DSP1, it looks like the white crystal and the 74hxx chip are useless for the v1.3.

 

The 1.3 board is made to use the white thing plus a surface mount 74hcu04 (and I think an extra resistor too). But you can save yourself a lot of trouble by just using a 7.6mhz oscillator like Tomy did. For the first method, you would have to order a surface mount 74hcu04 anyways, so you might as well just order an oscillator instead and go with the simpler method.

 

8mhz oscillator also fine. 7.6mhz sometimes hard to find

 

Here's my installation of DSP1 using Pilotwings. I've tried desoldering before using that solder wick stuff and it was painful and crappy. This time I got it all removed from the donor board in about 30 seconds.

1. Put the board, chips face down in a vice.
2. Apply a heat gun with the odd gentle tap from above with a flat screwdriver.
3. Watch the chips effortlessly fall out.

This is perfect for DSP1 salvaging because all the components are on one side, so you won't risk scorching anything.

note: if you see a little red dot drawn on the white box thing, that goes toward the outside of the board when putting it in your everdrive.

 

I agree, plus Ballz 3D is a horrible game. Infact there are a number of terrible DSP1 games. Don't destroy Pilot Wings or Mario Kart which are the best DSP1 games that are likely what you intend to play on your SED cart anyway.

 

Krikzz, is the procedure the same with my SED v1.3 ?
Thx

 

instalation to v1 is more hard and need some extraparts
http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showpost.php?p=494115&postcount=104

 

Hate to say it, but I desolder using those rubber bulb thing you use on babies to get snot out their nose..

Yea, I know, disgusting, but hey it works! And I even see Radioshack selling these kind of thing too..

 

Tutorial worked great, thank you! I used the 3 minute heating up the stove trick to pop all the chips off; much quicker that trying to use a desoldering braid.

 

I have a 1.3 everdrive. I think I messed up when installing DPS because MK or PW wont work, in PW I get the menu etc but when the flying part begin it crashes, MK just shows Nintendo logo.

I think I destroyed the clock when I desoldered it. Where can I find a three legged one or what should I search to find one to replace it with? Seems overkill just to buy another DSP game for the tiny part.

When I search for an 7.6mhz oscillator I get these but they are two legged not three legged: http://www.sky-macau.com/Products/Crystal-Oscillators-C44/Page-1/ItemsPerPage-20.html