Katana kit arrived with damage

lol. it really is hard to resist pushing that big red shiny button

 

That resolves that question then, you are NOT the next President of either Russia or USA ;-)

 

lol. but china is still ok? :lol:

 

If you are having great trouble finding that certain switch that may not be made anymore you could try to find other products that used similer componets from that time and destroy those for parts?

 

You can probably salvage the dialed switch since the leads look like they're towards the outside. Attached is an example I drew up for you outlining the steps to add new leads to the component. To cut the plastic, a dremel or file would work best, but if you're careful, a hobby knife could probably work too. One of the thinner paperclips would work well as the extension since it would provide both continuity and rigidity.

 

Hey, nice graphic & cool idea! I did consider it when I was taking it off the pcb and it is definately on the cards if no other alternative rotary switches turn up! But thanks for the very clear graphic

 

So what does the red button do?

 

I think i have some 16 positions in my store,if you dont find one i can check and its not a problem sending you one!:thumbsup:

 

Wow, I would seriously appreciate it mate! Can you check the legs on the underside. It needs to have 5 pins not the more readily available 6.

Thanks! ;-)

 

I'm not sure excactly what you need but I found some here:
http://www.elfa.se/en/
then in the menu on the left pick:
Electromechanics/Pneumatics -> Switches -> Rotary switches

 

Too many legs! But thanks! :thumbsup:

 

You've probably trawled through the switches available at RS, but if not this may be of use.....?

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?N=4294904133&name=SiteStandard&in_dim_search=1&callingPage=/jsp/line/line.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0859882507.1189899671@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccccaddlmlhddfdcefeceeldgkidhgk.0&cacheID=ukie&Nr=avl:uk

The ones towards the bottom of the first page look like they might do the job, but I'm clueless with stuff like this....:shrug:

Woo hoo my 100th post...

 

Having removed the parts and trawled for a few days (instead of studying) to find the particular 16 pole switch in question I decided to hand over the PCB to a friend of mine (James) who is a professional electrical engineer. He gave me a time limit of 3 weeks to find the parts and actually only took a few days!

I shall list the parts when I get the numbers from him. I cannot take credit for this bit of work, he has produced a fine bit of repair work and I've just plonked it (technical term for you there) inside the unit and will test it. The switch positions are slightly different, but I can definately live with that.

I shall post an image if it works - wish me luck! Massive thanks to James!

 

Thats really great news mate, I hope we see the kit up and running very soon.

 

Sadly, I think it's also got another problem as no matter what I try there is no VGA output or audio coming from the L / R. So, it might not be viable.... ho hum! Back to the drawing board.

OH:

 

Okay, when I switch the unit on the green POWER light comes on. Immediately all 3 orange status lights coming on. If I hit the RESET button there is no change. I am hearing the HDD spin up immediately and no clunk, clunk as if it's attempting to read, just a constant spin up noise. If there is data on the HDD I don't think it is making it out lol

Slide SW is to the LEFT, Rotary Switch is to PAL Europe, I have removed however the retail disc and left it to one side as it starts to spin up and NOTHING happens - I am not going to wear out the motor. It keeps spinning.

Dip Sw 1 & 2 are ON and 3 & 4 are OFF - in accordance with VGA output.

 

I'm not experienced with the Katana at all, but it sounds like the hard drive has been formatted, or one of the boot files are corrupt.

-Gamerfreak1727

 

I had the exact same problem, Parris. It's one of two things: your power supply is bad and / or you need to flash the firmware back onto the unit. Both of which I had to do.

You can tell if the power supply is bad because it won't power the emulation board. There should be no lights on the SCSI terminators indicating that. Also, if you hook it up to a PC through SCSI the emulation board won't appear on the list of attached devices.

You'll hear the hard drive spin up, but other than that, the unit won't work.

 

Many thanks for the input! This is beginning to sound oh so familiar. I began the PS2 Tool thread with the same initial suspicion that only a small step I was taking incorrectly was keeping me from a fully functioning unit. As time passed, further problems presented themselves until I realised the Tool I had purchased was a basketcase lol

It took several months to get it running. Someone please start the Katana clock!

Okay, if it's the firmware I am going to need some advice on how to deal with that. PSU replacement is straight forward.

As for an HDD that's been formatted... oh no, please don't let it be that :crying:

 

The hard drive isn't really an indication. Its purpose is to hold the game contents. It doesn't contain any boot information. You should still see the boot screen even if the hard drive is having problems. But, if you want to be 100% sure, run the HD into an SCSI compatible PC and see if it recognizes it. Go (here) for my guide on using recovery software to recover deleted data on the drive.

First start by getting it hooked up to your PC. Do you have the Adaptec card installed and terminators in place? If not, you'll have to do that before you can reset the firmware. You'll also need a copy of either SDK R9 or SDK R10 because it has the DACheck and DBFlash software you need to flash the firmware and check the hardware for any problems.

If you don't have that ready, you may want to start with the power supply. They're known to cause problems. The airflow inside the unit is terrible. I don't know where the intake on the power supply is supposed to get fresh air from because the GD-ROM unit blocks the path.