Making an 18 pole 16 throw switch

This is entirely relevant to "Modding and Hacking Consoles" as it's part of my major Unity project, as detailed on my forum. Project Unity is going to be the biggest bad-ass multi retro video gaming system ever made or liable to be made; using original hardware not clones or emulation.


Obviously you could make this up with however many poles and throws you need.


This is just part of my Unity project of course, however to all ends and purposes, the bank of switches and slider unit represents a project in itself, and is a self-contained start>end part of the overall project.

The video gives an overview of what work was done, and how to build one yourself, as the video covers techniques and methods too.

Probably took over 50 hours to make the bank of switches and slider unit in total, including various revisions. It is one of the cornerstones of my project.

The system doesn't look "pretty" at this stage, that will follow, it is still bare-bones and partially completed so far after all.

Click for video:



Here are a few static pics of parts covered in the video:

* Wired up slider unit


* The bank of switches in place (lots more systems and work to put in there yet!)


* Pic before assembling onto the Unity system showing the slider working along the bank of switches


* Pic showing base Unity system working with the Master Controller and also the bank of switches

 

That's insane. I've been following this project off-and-on for a while now. This switch design... CRAZY. I thought the 5 pack of triple pole, double throw switches I got off fleaBay for around $10 USD was crazy. You have put me to shame bacteria...

Keep up the good work. This is a neat design. Sure we could use emulators on something like a PC or Xbox (like I'm gonna do with my original Xbox), but then where's the fun in that? I believe that nothing beats having the original hardware to play on. Not even a clone console (like those Sega and Nintendo pirate things), official machines only.

 

While impressive, thats really not the way to do that.

You can just use solid state switches and like 1 button to switch between them all. I assume you dont know much about digital logic and just went with the (impressive) ghetto solution?

 

Its a little bulky but, I'm looking forward to the final product.

 

I'm not into electronics, my understanding of such is limited, my skills are logic, research, and creating.

Yes, this could be done via logic gate chips and some programming, however i'm not into programming, also logic gates need to know the voltages between all lines for switching, fact is they will be variable due to the outputs from the many regulators in the system (a large range from -5v to 15v via one 12v transformer), which system is running and ran previously, etc. I don't know how to do this that way so went with a manual version; at least with manual it is easy to see why something doens't work if it fails and fix it easily.

I've made the unit easy to get to and repair too, if needed.

@ Kaicer - system isn't that bulky, going to be about 34 x 34 x 44 when finished, and will be chock full of wiring and boards, will be quite full when finished.

@ ASSEMbler - yes, a "retro" solution for a retro system, lol

@ Bad_Ad84 - well, it works! The wiring is only an extension of the regular system wiring in place after all, it is fail-safe in that regards. Also with manual method, I don't have to be concerned with the amperages going through each wire, the grounding wires need to work up to around 4 amps for a system, IC chips might have an issue there!

@ sonicdude10 - pleased you're following the project, been over 2 years in the making so far! Indeed, no matter what people try to say, emulators and also clone hardware do not play the same or have the same feel as playing on original hardware. On original hardware you don't get artifacts, slowdowns, incorrect audio or graphics or glitches, or frameskip, etc; you get things working as they were originally designed to. Emulators are pretty good these days but not as good as original hardware.

 

Geez that's a monster switch. I'd have gone with electronics but as you said, you can't do it that way.

The biggest single switch I've seen is 12 throw rotary switch, you could stack on multiple waffers to get more poles. eBay has a bunch of them cheap. I got a few 5p12t rotaries (intended to make a composite + S-video + audio switch box, plus separate component for newer systems) and with little screwdriver tinkering, it'd be one 48p12t switch. Of course it'd take herculean strength to turn that switch. I don't think anyone made rotary switch with more throws than 12.

 

I saw your video about the controller, but like I comment there why you make it a 4 button instead of the 6 like the saturn controller. I find that layout way batter than any other, well that's just me, I love the saturn layout because it makes the fighting games a lot better to play instead of use the shoulder buttons.

 

I can put a screw into wood using a hammer but that doesn't make it a nail.

 

solid state relays + decade counter or similar then?

No programming required.

As I said, I appreciate how awesome this is - but there are better/smaller ways to do it (and wouldnt have taken 50+ hours!)

 

PIC + LCD + I/O + Relays. Problem solved.

@APE, you crack me up sometimes xD

 

He stated he cant program. So offering a solution that requires programming is just pointless.

 

I'm no expert, but lol.

 

Indeed! You'd be surprised how many technical people suggest how easy programming this and that would have been, completely missing the point, lol. In 1983 I could program in BASIC and some Assembly Language, self taught; so i'm no dumbass, however had no desire to continue programming since then.

No, it is still a hammer! (replying a smart reply to a smart reply, haha!)

Anyway, got onto Hack-A-Day:

http://hackaday.com/2012/08/20/making-a-gigantic-18-pole-16-throw-switch/

 

That was a bad idea, you are just going to get pages and pages of comments saying how you should of done it like I said.

 

Bad_Ad: Why does it matter so much now? He's made it, it works, so why are you constantly barraging him with complaints on how he's done it wrong? Telling him to trash it and start again is quite dickish. OK, it may not be the most glamorous or ideal solution, but it works for him.

Bacteria: A lateral solution to a complex problem. I like it!

 

I am not barraging him with complaints. If you dont want contructive critism (which is how you learn, when you dont know how to do something - which is apparent he didnt) - dont post on a public forum.

and ESPECIALLY don't get it posted on hackaday.

There are many many good reasons why this is done badly - most of which you can read in the hackaday comments.

I dont pretend to understand electronics to master level - but if you dont even have a basic understanding as why this is done badly - maybe YOU shouldnt be commenting.

 

I rarely pay attention to comments there. I like some projects that looks ghetto or something that could fit steampunk design. I don't care if there's a $5 chip that can do everything for less work, be much smaller, and looks "better" to minimalists.

 

It's not just about looks, there are real reasons such as degrading picture quality etc doing it like this.

Anyway, if anyone actually reads my posts - I asked if he did it this way due to not understanding the proper way. I then suggested a way, I then said posting to hackaday was probably a bad idea - as anyone who reads their often will know something not done properly just ends in tons of comments pulling apart why you did it that way.

At no point did I say trash it or overly critise. So dunno what got mooseblaster riled up about.

 

The picture quality is pretty perfect actually. I've used shielded cable for the system and both ends are grounded. There is no picture interference at all on video, it is crisp, no interference lines, etc, due to grounding everything fully.

There is rarely ever one way to solve a problem, and simple methods are often the best methods. I built my unit and slider for under £10 complete, and it works fine and reliably.

BTW Bad_Ad84 - I didn't tip Hack-A-Day, they posted the article because clearly they thought it worthy for their well respected news site; the fact you disagree is not relevant ;o) There are no wrong methods, if they work they work and therefore are right; the only wrong methods are ones that don't work: being subjective to what is better than what is subjective and not a negativity to the success of a method used, IMO. Clearly Hack-A-Day thought the method was innovative and worth posting.