Neo Geo MVS not turning on?

It's been probably about 9 months since I plugged in my MVS but now it doesn't boot. I'll wiggle the power cable and it started to boot but eventually it went out. Obviously it's the power supply (probably just the cable part actually).

What's a proper power supply for an MVS so I can get this running again?

 

Depends on your board

Earlier ones needed 5V@5 Amps and 12V@1 Amp. Later model boards are a bit less hungry on the 5V line needing 5V@3 Amps and 12V@1 Amp.

 

it's the very first board. http://www.jammaboards.com/store/15a-arcade-switching-power-supply-110w/prod_251.html would this work

 

That would be perfect.

 

Not entirely accurate. It depends on the type of board, most 1 slots only need +5v@2A and +12v@1A, 2 slots are +5v@2A as well, 4 slot is +5v@6A and a 6 slot is +5v@8A. Of course having some head room is always good so a nice +5v@15A supply is perfect.

Check your power supply first if it has any voltage coming out as it might not be the power supply and could be the board itself. Quite possible that the battery leaked and ate some traces.

 

Can someone throw out a rough ballpark figure for how much it would cost to consolise an MVS (RGB SCART)? Board, pads, hookups. I'm kind of curious.

 

Lol, could that be any more off topic? ;-)

1 slot is around £40 (depending how fussy you are on version).

Vogateks (yuck) were what? About £20 when he actually made them? I'd probably allow for that, maybe a bit more, if you're getting the parts and making it yourself.

AES / Neo CD joysticks are about £20-25 a piece. You could get a stick and buttons for that, though.

Case - depends what you go for. Personal preference, really.

If you're not making it yourself, obviously extra cost for labour.

 

About £100, then. Thanks. Looking at those Vogateks I recognise them, I was put off before by the sound not going down the SCART and it looks like that still isn't fixed... ah well.

Didn't seem worth starting a new topic. Apologies Henners! Threadjacking was not my intention. If I need any more info I'll kick open a new thread instead.

 

Since you can run RGB SCART that already knocks off $100 from what someone in the US would have to pay since you don't need an RGB encoder.

The best one to consolize would be a 2 slot since it is very close to an AES except it has an extra slot of course. But it also has the mem card slot, 2 controller ports and headphone jacks.

All you would need is:

+5v@3A power supply ($10-15)
SCART socket (chassis mount) ($1)
RGBS pots 500ohm ($2-3 each x 4)
Power jack for Power supply ($2)
Power Switch ($3)
Control Pad ($30) or Joystick ($40-50)
RGB SCART cable ($10)

And that's it, roughly $65-85.

 

Shit, I forgot the PSU lol! Umm, surely if you don't have 12v, you won't get sound?!

He said WITH board, though, so I'd say your quote might be a little on the low side.

If you didn't care about memory card, there's the MV-1F.

Going back to the current, didn't one of the 1 slots require 7A on the +5v?

 

On all the MVS boards you can do a mod to run it with only +5v. It's just a matter of joining the main and secondary +5v rails.

2 slots can be found for $50-80 easily on ebay and forums.

As for the 7A on the +5v, that is what was recommended by SNK but the actual current draw was way less. The MV1C calls for 3A on the +5v but actually only uses around 1.3A.

 

Hmm, interesting. So it runs as normal, and will last?

What exactly required 12v, then? I always thought it was sound, as per certain other arcade boards.

 

the board looked ok to me but I'll double check. Like I said, i think the cord on the PSU went out because it started to boot when I gave it a wiggle. And the unit would reset once in a while and iirc that's a power supply issue.

 

The +12v line power the sound section of the board. The +12v powers the amplifier directly but also runs through a 7805 which drops the +12v to +5v, that becomes the secondary +5v rail. So with the +5v mod you will have line level audio. The beauty is also that you can still run the board in a cab if you want.

 

I see. So you basically just bypass the 7805, then?

Henners, are you running it in a cab or in a home setup? That could be a cheap way of replacing the PSU for you! ;-)

 

Correct. You can just remove the 7805 and it will still function normally in a cab if you do the mod.

 

It's in a cabinet. I have no idea how to fucking hook this shit up either! Would that PSU work in my cabinet? And can someone explain how to hook it up? I'm missing my Neo

 

was doing some digging around and some how, on the PSU i found a wire that is unplugged...I can't exactly get to the back of my unit right now, I found it by opening the CP. I found two wires that are green...both of them connected to the power supply. one has solder the other has a circle connector...

could this be the culprit?

 

Possibly grounds? What do they connect to on the PSU?

That PSU should work in any cabinet - just replace yours with that one. It should have all the same marked connections. AC L and AC N are obviously mains voltage, the symbol is main ground. The rest are self explanatory - +5v etc.

Do JAMMA boards still work fine in the cab?

 

never even tried Jamma boards.