Original Xbox Portable / Laptop Build

Hi all,

Here is my build log of the Portable Xbox (original).

Parts to the build so far [will keep updated]

• 1.5v Original Xbox Console with Custom Bios tsop-ed
• Stock HDD [Will replace with either 80gb OR some 2.5" Notebook drive to save power and space]
• Some fans

What has been done:

So Far I have flattened and insulated all the larger capacitors which may get in the way.
[Some Caps are missing (I stole them for another project, more are on the way)]

Here is the whole board..



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The flattened capacitors..



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A close up of the missing capacitors. [They are 3300uf @6.3v]



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I have extended the ethernet, removed the Video jack and added the second fan header [un-tested]



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Removed the ATX PSU connector, ready for direct wire install..


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Ideas for the build [open to suggestions]

• Use only the Player 1 and 2 ports and replace the Player 3 and 4 with a stacked usb header.

*If a controller is built in, still use P1&2 but use a switch on the 5v for player 1 to toggle.

• Replace Original PSU with a DC to DC Picto PSU [ like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-200W...6?pt=AU_Components&hash=item3f224c73ee&_uhb=1 ]

And have transformer external in the form of a wallwart or small AC/DC PSU [ like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-5V-A...7?pt=AU_HardDrives&hash=item2a0fd47c9f&_uhb=1 ]

• Use either Sata (Cheaper per GB) or PATA 2.5" notebook drive to save power and space. [thinking cheap SSD as this will be portable]

[like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mushkin-...l_Hard_Disk_Drives&hash=item1e85c1fd5a&_uhb=1 ]

• For the display maybe a small LCD TV [so I can use the speakers] Only problem if I use the picto psu I will need two power leads :/

[Something like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GVA-GVAL...?pt=AU_Televisions&hash=item19e7d75167&_uhb=1 ]

• Use an old retro suitcase or steel flight case

[Flight case will cost more but will be easier to work with..]

• Maybe run the console with NO DVD OR make it external

• Have external audio [right off board], headphones via tv and just use a simple select for the composite video or use a y adaptor [one going to tv and one going to aux out]....

Anyway let me know what you guys think, all suggestions welcome

 

Video Log:

 

Looks awesome. I will be watching. Just thought I'd say this. Someone was looking for a 1.5 console here. Forgot who. They may want to trade boards.

 

Looks promising mate! Good luck with your progress

 

I Haven't seen the board revision before o_o

In any case. Why don't you try to fit it into an existing laptop frame? Replace the heatsinks of course.

 

As for the revision, this board came out of a "BEAST PACK" bundle.


It may physically fit inside an old laptop, but the display will be too much work to bother with. I am starting to like the idea of a flight case, as it still has that rugged feel, much like the xbox.

For some background on why a laptop will be a little hard ->

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl7rshPe-x4

[I'm going to use composite too so that may be harder]

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Hmmm..... the board is a little too far along for a trade now...

 

I though 1.5's were a myth.

 

im not sure about composite , but you could get one of them china lcd panel drivers , usually have vga/dvi and the yellow video one (cant remember what its called) , i got one for a 32" lcd tv that had killed its driver board

Edit : i wonder how well an xbox would rackmount

 

Hmm interesting ..

 

How common are those revisions? I've opened up a lot and never seen that. I want it.

I have a 19" that im doing nothing with if you want. Only does vga though.

Could you explain how you desoldered the connectors so nicely? I've never been able to do it very well.

 

I have two actually (ill double check) this stock beast unit and a halo LE, They could may be just 1.4's but i don't think so..

I think 19" is too big,15" 16:9 should fit in a flight case fairly easy though..


I worked this out whilst stripping the console what I did was:

Flux all the points and reflow the solder with my iron, then using a hot air reflow station set to 400C with a large-ish square nozzle, I heated the points on the connector (including the ground tabs). One the solder flowed I gently pulled the connector out from the other side..

To clean the holes out I swapped the square nozzle for a small round one, put a little more flux on the board and heated just a few via's at a time, once the solder flowed (went molten) I put the nozzle to the board and used the air flow to blow the solder out from the via..


I can make a how to video if anyone wants.. Also my Reflow set up uses a 'bladder' a lot of really cheap systems use a blower inside the handle, I don't think the blower kind have enough push to do this..

 

I've got a halo le coming to me this week so maybe I will own one after all.
Would you still have that body to the halo le? I know someone looking for one.

You've convinced me that I will finally need to buy a reflow station. Time to save up.

 

Sorry for any confusion. I believe both my consoles to be 1.5's but the Halo LE is still all together (my daily driver)

This is the exact seller and model I have works great. A plus to getting these Chinese ones is that they are HAKKO clones and thus accept all HAKKO parts [irons and tips ect.]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-In-1-S...cal_Test_Equipment&hash=item338bad3433&_uhb=1

 

Got in the missing capacitors today

So I have been pondering the display and have worked out what I'm going to do:

Get an LED15/16" tv and strip it down to the driver board and panel and remove it's PSU, then wire it up to the xboxes PSU (The TV should only need GND, 12v, 5v, maybe 3v) which is what the xbox uses too

I'm also pondering replacing the stock xbox PSU with a strip type one used in rack mount servers...

like this> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EMC-Cent..._Accessories_Parts&hash=item19e8bbfe34&_uhb=1


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OR this one > http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Powerman...1?pt=AU_Components&hash=item27ddea100b&_uhb=1

 

Anything not made by Foxlink would be fine lol

 

Anyone know how to run the xbox off an atx PSU seeing as the PS/on lines are different voltage

 

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in, but in the meantime:
http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1/Power_Supply_Pinouts/
http://pinouts.ru/Power/atxpower_pinout.shtml
Seems to me you need a voltage regulator to drop 5V to 3.3V for PowOK, and you could either do your own thing on the PSU's PowON signal (i.e. extra switch connected to GND, rendering the Xbox' buttons useless) or come up with some method of inverting the Xbox' signal (maybe a relais or w/ever).

 

wouldn't it be easier to just extend the wires from the front panel or trim the board down? It would probably be better.

 

Try this. It should get everything to the proper voltages for the PSOK and 3.3V standby lines.

 

part 2:
Sorry it took a while