Hello; "To begin I am anxious to apologize. I am French and I use a translator. I hope that it will remain understandable." My problem began when it was necessary to know if it was necessary to feed him with 110V or 220 V, according to photos below we confirmed me the 110V (She must not be connected 220V there because no track of burn or others); Unfortunately having connected him in 110 V, the only thing which ignites is the LED (no image, no reader who works only the LED): / On the pictures below we can see that it possesses a circuit at the level of the alim and an other one over the card- mother which I did not see somewhere else. Outside there is this hole with a little rubber. Inside sons are missing. I would like to know if there are things to be checked to help me know from where come the concern ?
That is strange, never seen that before. Are you using a 220v - 110v step down transformer? Did u cut the wires on the motherboard or were they already cut? Do u have anymore pictures of the motherboard, where the green, brown, white and black wires go. The silkscreen on the big circuit board says 'NAPPE1' who is a modder but I can't find any reference to this pcb. With the psu disconnected from the motherboard, what voltages do u get at the connector?
The small board soldered to the PSU looks like a phase control circuit (like a light dimmer), presumably intended to drop the output voltage of the rectifier to a point where it won't blow up the PSU even when run from 220V. The other board looks like a SECAM converter - which would make sense since the OP mentioned he was French. Both boards seem to be of European manufacture, since they have distinctive parts like those Philips caps.
That's what I was thinking regarding psu. Something to allow it to function at 230v without an external step down converter. Is a secam converter necessary or can the console be used in it's native NTSE output over S-Video? Still strange how the wires are cut underneath and no obvious attachment to motherboard.
OK, The more I look at it, the more sure I am that the mod to the PSU is a 220V conversion. I just had a look and one of my FZ-10s has the same power PCB as this one, but in an unmodified state: The most significant thing is the parts that have been removed - the original layout has 2 caps connected across the common mode filter choke - these are 0.1uF, 125V parts it also has a 220V (peak) tranzorb (Z001) wired across the line. These are all parts that would have been likely to blow up when connected to 220V, and they have all been removed from the circuit. The 4 diodes have also been removed, and replaced by the added board, which is wired to the pads previously occupied by D002 and D003. There are also some added components, probably additional filtering. Looking at the main PCB, nothing seems to have been removed, just more wires added. The wires seem to be connected to the parts that act as buffers for the Y/C signal out of the video encoder, but I can't see any thing going to the output sockets. This suggests that my initial idea was wrong - that board isn't a SECAM encoder, but an NTSC->RGB converter, and wires that have been cut off used to connect to a cable wired to an RGB SCART plug. This also explains the hole in the rear panel.
Yes. The threads were already cut. Where is the connector to be checked? I should try to plug it in 220V simply? Thanks a lot for your help.
I was going to suggest removing the white ribbbon cable and testing the connector on the psu side with a multimeter https://www.hostingpics.net/viewer.php?id=688409P20170907123509.jpg If the values were too low, it would confirm that this psu has been modified to work on 220v. But I think Trimesh has pretty much confirmed this so it should work with a standard 220v wall socket. As for the video converter, your new pics confirm this. It somehow takes Luma and chroma from the S-video connector and converts it to RGB. Without the original pinout or an oscilloscope, it would be difficult to work out the wires to solder to a new connector. The original owner must have removed the connector to use for something else.
I removed the ribbon from the motherboard. Is this the PSU, if so how to take action on it? I am really sorry for my ignorance. Will the composite output still work?
If you are unfamiliar with working with psu, I strongly suggest you leave it alone. It has live voltages and there is a big risk of electric shock if you don't know what you are doing. The psu looks like it has already been modified to work with 220v mains voltage so u can remove your step down transformer and test it with mains supply. Yes, composite and s-video will still work.
Thank you so much ! It works very well in 220 v. It reads very well the games, and the composite output also works very well. Well in the end it was not much, but without knowing I wanted to take the risk of grilling it. Once again thank you.
Glad its working. It's always good to be cautious and research before moving forward. All credit goes to Trimesh on this one for identifying the circuitry. If u wanted to reinstall a connector for RGB, it shouldn't be too hard. Just take a multimeter and read the voltages on the grey, purple, blue, green, yellow and orange against ground. These values should tell you which wire solders to which pin on the chosen connector. The values expected should be 5V, 0V, ~0.7v, ~0.7v, ~0.7v and ~0.4v. I would recommend using a 8 pin mini din. U can then purchase a pre made RGB scart cable, available for consoles, to connect to your tv.
That's where I would have taken them from I think the original modder may have wired a 21pin SCART directly to that 'bridge' board. That other bunch of wires would have been all the signal grounds from the SCART. If you choose to wire a 8 pin mini din to the case, u can remove these wires as the ground of the connector will ground the pre made cables.
I don't own a FZ-10 so I can't be sure. I would desolder the bunch of chopped wires and use that point as the GND reference and test all the other wires from that with a multimeter. The wires you want the values of are grey, purple, blue, green, yellow and orange.
That's right. Measure the voltage between each wire and the bundle of wires. It's not necessary to desolder them but if you do decide to install a RGB connector, they will need desoldering. Also it will look tidier
Yes indeed ^^ These are the measures : Ground/Grey -> 0.32 Ground/Purple -> 0.37 Ground/Blue -> 0.33 Ground/Green -> 0.90 Ground/Yellow -> 3.60 Ground/Orange -> 12.10
From your measurements it looks like Grey -> RGB? Purple -> RGB? Blue -> RGB? Green -> CVBS (pin 20) Yellow -> RGB select (pin 16) Orange -> AV select (pin 8) The original modder has used Composite (CVBS) video as their SYNC signal, this is not as clean as using pure sync but still ok for RGB. They have also included 3.6v to switch from Composite to RGB and 12v to switch the tv to AV. This reinforces my theory that the modder wired a SCART cable directly to the board. Without special equipment, there is no way to tell which wire is R, G or B specifically, but this could be worked out through trial and error.
I will try to find someone near me who would be able to fix it with your information. Then at worst it is not so serious, the main thing is that I can play there anyway without worries. Anyway a big thank you to both of you for your help.
