PS1 SCPH-1001 Ressurection

Discussion in 'Repair, Restoration, Conservation and Preservation' started by stupidhead, Nov 22, 2014.

  1. stupidhead

    stupidhead Member

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2014
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    1
    Ok, then when replacing the other chip, I assume just tacking it via the heatsink on both sides first would be easiest.

    Just to make sure this chip is no good, what voltage should the chip be getting on the VCC pins?

    I'm getting ~1.16v on each vcc pin.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2014
  2. master991

    master991 Enthusiastic Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    597
    Likes Received:
    28
    Hmm that's no good. According to the datasheed VCC should be >6V (or 5.5 in low V mode)
    But honestly i don't remember on the psx at wich V operates... Sure not 1.16V, assuming you're misuring the right pins (PIN 21 and 22)...
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2014
  3. stupidhead

    stupidhead Member

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2014
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    1
    Yeah, I double checked that I am measuring pins 21 and 22, and still getting 1.16v on both. hmmm.
     
  4. TriMesh

    TriMesh Site Supporter 2013-2017

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2008
    Messages:
    2,324
    Likes Received:
    750
    They should have about 7.5V on them - but this is confusing, since you earlier mentioned that the focus actuator was working, and that's run off the same chip (and the same supply). Try checking the fuses again and seeing if one of the 7.5V ones is blown - also check if the focus actuator is still working (I suspect it isn't).
     
  5. stupidhead

    stupidhead Member

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2014
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    1
    You were right, this fuse right here is also blown. It also explains why BAxxxxxx chip is only getting 1.16v, the left side of this fuse reads 7.8xV and the right side reads 1.16v

    this is the fuse in question (not my original picture)
    http://i.imgur.com/FuMkcjl.jpg

    Also, that's a pu-7, and mine is a pu-8, but the layout in that area is pretty much the same between them.

    I replaced the fuse with another "20" from the 7501 and it blew immediately, i know it was good because i tested beforehand.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2014
  6. master991

    master991 Enthusiastic Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    597
    Likes Received:
    28
    OK,
    if the fuse have the correct value (replace 1A fuse with 1A) you have short somewhere or bad psu...
     
  7. TriMesh

    TriMesh Site Supporter 2013-2017

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2008
    Messages:
    2,324
    Likes Received:
    750
    OK, there are basically three possibilities - the first one is that you have a bad motor, the second is that you have a bad driver chip and the third is that both are bad.

    The first thing to do is to check the motor - set your meter to ohms and measure across the motor while slowly rotating the output shaft - it's normally about 10 ohms, but what you are really looking for is intermittent shorts, since they will blow up the driver chip.

    If the motor is good, then you can be pretty sure that the BTL chip is the fault, so try removing it, cleaning up the board and putting a new fuse in - the fuse shouldn't blow.

    If the motor is bad, then it's possible it took the chip out with it - you could just solder a new fuse in and see, but you can also do a quick test using your meter set to the 10A DC range and bridging the fuse with the test leads - it will either take several amps, in which case you should immediately disconnect the leads and replace both the BTL driver and the fuse, or a few mA, which suggests that the chip is good, and you should replace the fuse.
     
  8. stupidhead

    stupidhead Member

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2014
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    1
    When the fuse that I replaced blew, it blew without the cd assembly being plugged into the board at all, so that kind of rules that out I guess.

    I'll just remove the BTL chip and order a few extra replacements and some of them fuses and try replacing it all.

    Does anyone know where I can get some of them fuses? I remember finding them in a google search on some site listed as "PS2 fuses" but I can't find them again.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2014
  9. TriMesh

    TriMesh Site Supporter 2013-2017

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2008
    Messages:
    2,324
    Likes Received:
    750
    Right, so you know the driver chip is bad - but you still need to check the motor in case that was what damaged it in the first place, since otherwise you could replace the chip and then blow it up again.

    Getting replacement fuses might be a bit of a problem now - that form factor isn't common anymore, although the manufacturers are still listing it as a current product.

    http://www.koaproducts.com/ccp_en.php

    Later on they used a Rohm part (ICP-S series), but I can't seem to find that on the Rohm website now.

    If you can't find them, then you can use any 1210 or 1206 SMT fuse in place of them - they just won't look original.
     
  10. stupidhead

    stupidhead Member

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2014
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    1
    Ok, I got the BLT chip off and I did it pretty well despite the fact that my soldering iron tip is completely trashed.

    Now, I just need to order replacements and some new fuses.

    I ended up finding some replacements like the original fuses here:
    http://www.tt-store.com/smd-fuse-for-ps2-10-pcs-pack-p-1222.html

    The only thing is, it's pretty expensive for 10 little fuses that for all you know were pulled from junk ps2 motherboards and also because they don't state anywhere what value fuses you're going to be getting in the 10 pack are.

    So I think I'll just be going with 1210 or 1206 SMT fuses like you said.

    I'm going to be testing the spindle motor and the motor for the laser tonight.
     
sonicdude10
Draft saved Draft deleted
Insert every image as a...
  1.  0%

Share This Page