PS2 stops ejecting after it's been running for awhile (something overheating?)

Moved over from HERE since the original purpose of that thread has been fulfilled

I've finished installed a Modbo 4.0 (I thought it was v1.98, but checking it's BIOS, it's actually v1.99, which apparently have issues with Australian PS2, though I'm not sure what issues exactly), into my V3 PS2 and all seems perfect! Except that the tray stops ejecting once the console has been running for awhile. It starts working again if the console has been turned off and left for a while, but then it stops working again after it's been left running. This is making me think something is overheating. I've tried replacing the drive board, but the same results. I'm thinking one of the "BA" chips is overheating, because:
A) One of these chips controls the operation of the disk tray doesn't it?
B) Aside from the CPU and GPU, these chips are the only other part that needs a heatsink

I've noticed that the thermal pad for the BA chips is all brittle and dried out, it's suppose to be soft and rubbery like the thermal pad the CPU uses isn't it? Would replacing the thermal pad solve the issue? I've got some thermal pads from a Dreamcast (the little square ones that stick to the RF shield), they look about the right thickness, however, they wouldn't fully cover the entire surface of each BA chip. Would it be worth trying them? I could also scavenge the CPU thermal pad from another PS2 and cut it to size, but I'm not sure if it would be the right thickness, I'd have to open it up and find out!

*EDIT* Okay, I found a thermal pad that looks to be the right thickness. Swapped out the old pad for the new one. NO DIFFERENCE!

 

It wouldn't just be the belt getting sticky from the heat? - I'm no expert, but I've ran into the same problem with various draw players.

 

Maybe...? Would this be happening this quickly? It takes about 5 mins before it stops ejecting.

 

The thermal pad for that is supposed top be harder and more brittle than the others, it seems to be a different composition from the others. I'd suspect the drive ribbon cable or a cracked trace on the mobo.

 

I've checked the eject-power ribbon cable with a multimeter, it's fine. I've also used 2 different ribbon cables for the one that goes from the drive board to the main board, I don't think they would both have the same issue. I didn't notice any cracked traces when I installing the chip, is that a common problem?

*EDIT* Just now I was able to get the tray to eject when it had stopped doing it, by hammering away at the eject button. It only popped out halfway before closing again though.

*EDIT* Cleaned the drive belt, including doing the warm water soak trick. No change.

*EDIT* Do you think it would be worthwhile trying a different PSU/laser/the little board with the CR2032 battery? I've got spares of those is all.

 

Check the tray in and tray out detect switches.

 

"check" like visually inspect them for damage and dust? They look fine from here, but I've tried two different drive assemblies (including the detect switches) in this console and they both at the same problem. Or is there some known issue that the switches are prone to?

*EDIT* Left the console in standby (red light) instead of switching it off at the power switch. Turned it on and tried to eject it, and it wouldn't. Not sure of the significance of that.

 

Fireaza, try swapping the *SYSCON* board around (the board which has the battery in it) and see if the situation improves.

 

Silly question but have you checked the eject button itself?

 

Check the chip overall install (cold joints, wire short ecc)
Also check if some pin of the chip (mechacon or bios) where you have soldered the wires have cold ol fake contact joint!

 

Just to get some more info, can you confirm what happens when you press Eject? Does the blue light start blinking? Any noise from the motors?

 

Will do! Shall let you know if it improves things!

*EDIT* swapped over the SYSCON board (as well as the PSU and eject/power buttons for good measure) but now I can't even get the PS2 to boot up :\ Just a black screen with a green power light, though it does eject (though it will probably stop doing at if left for a while).

*EDIT* Swapped back the original PSU, still won't boot. Going to try swapping back the original SYSCON board, if that doesn't solve the problem, something else has gone horribly wrong.

Like, if there's something broken on it? It looks fine, but I could swap it for a different one.

I'll take another look at it, but my experience has been if everything's not perfect, the PS2 won't boot up or the modchip won't function What wire on the Modbo 4.0 controls the eject function anyway? There's a wire for reset, I know that much.

It blinks when you press it, an no noise from the moters.

 

It blinks when you press it, an no noise from the moters.[/QUOTE]

Press eject and check for voltage on the pink connector on the drive board, that powers the motor.

 

I'm kinda new to using a multimeter, but I take it doing this would involve unplugging the plug and sticking a probe into each socket? Polarity is important I take it? What selling checks voltage on a multimeter? One of the AC/DC options?

 

I'm sorry if i'm too rude, but how do you expect to solve your problem if you can not even use a multimeter?
Learn, at least the basics.
We can't help you if you do not even know how to use the tools: P

 

i dont bother with multi meters these days, i just lick the contacts and use my senses to gauge the results while pluggin in of course ,

on a serious note *puts on serious face* PS2 drives can be very very assey about working properly. i've not read the whole thread but have you actually tried stripping down the while drive assembly and putting it all back together, cogs and all?

multi meters are easy to use really, just youtube or google it and you'll get plenty of guides and howtos on multi meter use, its not hard, just select the right setting and probe with the probes

 

That's because I've only ever used mine to check continuity. I can do that LIKE A BOSS. Checking voltage is new to me however, since I've never had to do that before.

I have indeed pulled all the mechanical parts apart and cleaned everything. Greased up parts that rub for good measure too. I don't think it's a mechanical problem, since everything in that area seems to be running smoothly (and well-greased).

 

When you press eject, does the disc stop spinning? Does the laser home (move toward center until "laser is home" sensor button is pressed)?

I think the process normally is something like:
1. eject is pressed
2. blue light starts blinking
3. stop spinning the disc and home the laser
4. start running the tray motor
5. the motor will run until the "tray is fully ejected" sensor button under the tray is pressed.
6. blue light stops blinking
7. read disc

in "5", if that "tray is fully ejected" sensor button isn't pressed for a few seconds, the motor will run faster at two higher speeds for a few seconds (maybe to compensate for the motor becoming worn out?). If the button still isn't pressed, the motor will reverse (= pull back the tray if something is blocking it), either until the "tray is fully pulled in" sensor button is pressed or for a few seconds. Not sure if this happens at varying speed as well. If the button is still not pressed, I don't remember what happens: the blue light might or might not keep blinking. I think pressing eject again will try to eject or pull in the tray.

 

just on the off chance that you hadn't or the gears / cogs were slightly off or too loose / too tight. other than that im not very versed on PS2 technology

 

I'll have to check the specifics on what the disk does (gotta get the thing booting again :\) but as I recall when it doesn't want to eject the disk, the blue light doesn't start a blinking cycle. It only blinks once, each time you press it.