PS2 stops ejecting after it's been running for awhile (something overheating?)

ROFTL what you mean like a boss?

I've haved some problems, and same blinkin blue led with black screen with an install time ago, and i give you the solutions.
All multimeter should be used in the same mode, the only things that change it's the graphics (of the tool, not the simbols )
So it' the proof that you SHOULD learn first how to use your tools! Make pratice and after mod a ps2 (thats not easy and you see with your eyes) and if you have problem ask for help.
HOW we can help you if you even know the differences beetwen AC and DC voltage? (and don't forget that you in the old topic you don't ever know how check a short correctly)

So stop lose time to check things that not the cause of the problem (also Olivera give you a solution, but you...) and lose 10 (yes TEN) minutes and learn\read of use a multimeter and how solder correctly and how reconize cold\fake joint! A good solder iron do a better job but not miracle!
Do not take it as an offense (as I have hinted in the previous answer), but as a suggestion...

 

The Modbo 4.0 will not work correctly in anything lower than a v5 and the 1.99 has compatibility problems, the reason I only carry 1.93.
The best chip for anything lower than a V5 is the M-2 MP-168 modchip. This chip was made just for V0-v5.

 

Wich problem has modbo v4 1.99 jinn?
i've installed 1.99 on a v5 PAL and work without any problem...

 

It's a reference to a Lonely Island song, the internet has started using the song's chorus to refer to doing something with skill, power and boldness

I had read up on how the check voltage with a multimeter prior to now, but I'd never put it into practice, and I'm the type who learns best with hands-on experience. Still kinda weary about sticking metal things into live electricity, but eh, can't be much worse than the other times I've received electric shocks while working on things

The store I brought it from claims it work in PS2s v3-v19, but then again, they said they were using 1.93 firmware, but the chip they sent uses 1.99 :\ I haven't noticed any weird compatibility issues, just this odd ejecting issue which I'm not sure is chip-related or something else... When you say "M-2 MP-168", you're talking about a MarsPro chip right? I can't find reference to a "MP-168" though, did you mean "GM-816"?

Okay, I've got the console running again (one of the wires on the MECHACON chip had come loose, though it still didn't work until I changed back the original SYSCON board, weird.) So to answer kungmidas's questions, here's how it behaves when the drive is refusing to eject:

When there's a disk in the drive and it's on the console's main menu
Pressing eject makes blue light blink once, the tray doesn't eject, the disk spins-up and the laser starts reading the disk. The game can then be played.

When there's a game running and the eject button is pressed
Pressing eject makes the blue light blink (sometimes multiple blinks, sometimes just one as before), the tray doesn't eject and the game complains about not being able to read the disk.

When there's no disk in the drive (from main menu)
Pressing eject makes the blue light blink (sometimes multiple blinks, sometimes just one as before), the laser tries to read a disk (i.e the eye moves up and down and the spindle spins)

I've heard that the 1.99 has issues on Australian PS2s and the v1.93 is suppose to be better, but I haven't been able to find out what these issues are exactly. If it possible to update the firmware so I could install v1.93 to be on the safe side?

*EDIT* I've been able to get the eject to function again after it had stopped by messing around with the switch on the front to make the console think the tray is open/closed as well as manually lowering and raising the drive assembly. For now, the tray has started opening and closing as it's suppose to, but I'll see how long this lasts...

*EDIT* Well, the drive has stopped ejecting again, but it took MUCH MUCH longer this time. Again, I was able to get it to start working normally again by messing around with the tray open/close switch at the front. Any clues what this means guys?

*EDIT* Here's a photo of what the switch looks like when it's fully ejected:

What's got my attention is the switch doesn't seem to be getting fully pushed down, as is what happens if you manually align the tray so it's ejected out further. In this case, the little plastic bit of the tray fully pushes the switch down. I'm not sure this is part of the problem, since the motor doesn't keep running once the tray reaches this point, so the switch has gotta be sending the "fully open" signal, but I'm not sure.

*EDIT* It seems that if the drive it left open, the problem doesn't occour. However, when left running the mainboard is getting really really hot, and that wire keeps de-soldering itself.

 

Just to get concistent results, I think you best try with a DVD movie (some PS2 games can't recover from a missing disc, DVD movies always throw you out to the PS2 "Browser" when the disc is ejected).

1. Did the running game spin down and did the laser home?
2. When you press eject in a running movie, you are thrown out to the browser, and there is NO disc displayed in the browser, right?
3. What happens if you press Eject now, does the movie re-appear in the browser?

If the answer is "yes" to all three, I think the problem may be that the "tray fully open" button always reports "yes!".

To go back to my "listing":
1. eject is pressed
2. blue light starts blinking: yes
3. stop spinning the disc and home the laser
4. start running the tray motor -- yeah, but...
5. the motor will run until the "tray is fully ejected" sensor button under the tray is pressed -- if this is always detected as "pressed", the tray motor would not need to start
6. blue light stops blinking
7. NO read disc -- no, my mistake, this is of course not the case when ejecting the disc

If you press again now in this state the machine starts ignoring the "fully out" sensor and start pulling in the tray again, and since the "fully in" sensor is already pressed (and rightfully so) it is immediatelly detected as inserted, and starts reading the disc again. Is this the case?

Maybe this problem is caused by faulty chip installation etc, and the fact that time or heat seems to trigger the problem that seems maybe a bit more likely, but the sensor would be fairly easy to check. For starters, you could simply unplug the sensor and see if that makes a difference - if it does, there's definitly a problem with the button. (remember to remove the tray too, it's probably not healthy for anything if the tray motor keeps running when the tray actually is fully ejected!)

EDIT: you wrote plenty of other stuff that seems to point at the sensor button simply being broken. I do think it's ok though that the button doesn't seem to be fully pressed (after all, the motor wont stop ejecting the disc until that sensor is triggered so it makes sense that it stops when it's just barely triggered).

 

OMG!
It's the last time i help you!
This is a symptom that there is something wrong with the installation of the modchip, or have you done some mess on the moteherboard (short ecc ecc)

Have fun destroing another innocent PS2

 

Jeez, calm down buddy! :nightmare:

Yes, I've mentioned that there might be an issue with the installation, but it's the other things (i.e console runs perfectly aside from the odd eject issue, the problem resolves itself when you flick the tray open/close switch) that's making me go back and fourth and leaving me unsure what the cause of the issue really is. Naturally, I've checked the connections on the modchip, both visually with a large, lit magnifying glass (checking for bridges or incorrectly soldered wires) as well as with a multimeter.

Yes, the occasionally self-desoldering wire is obviously an installation issue, since none of the other wires on the same chip do this (by no coincidence, this wire was the first one I soldered), which would be resolved by removing the wire and soldering it proper. However, the occasionally self-desoldering wire is not the main thing I'm concerned about. We've discussed that improper installation is a possible problem, but where exactly? Which solder point might be the culprit? I've checked the solder points, and all seems well, and the chip seems to be functioning perfectly. Of course, there's still the lingering issue of the possibility that both the modchip, as well as it's firmware has issues with this model of PS2. Maybe this ejecting issue is one of the issues (not that I've been able to find reference to it)? In which case, that's not an installation issue.

Also, it's completely unnecessary to say that that I'm "destroying another PS2". The first time was my bad, due to a lack of proper tools and knowledge, and I admit that. This PS2 is not "destroyed", it's just not fully functional to the extent that I would like. Maybe this console has always been this way? I never though to see if the drive would eject after it's been running for a while when I first brought it.

 

I think you are underestimating the importance of a "self-desoldering" wire. That is not supposed to happen. Ever. This means that there is something seriously wrong with the installation which could be a variety of things. It could be an issue with the wire you are using (wrong awg), workmanship issue (bad soldering, bridged solder joint), component defect (bad modchip, bad mobo, something else). For instance, if I drain all the oil out of my car's motor and drive around, my engine will work... for a period of time. Then it won't. It would be helpful for you to post pictures of your installation and your soldering. Perhaps someone here will see something that you are missing.

 

LOL, sometimes i'm too rude, but i'm not a meany person...
My answers are brute because you remember me someone ( a person) that consider hisself a master of electronic and , now a professional coder, but he can not even fix a simple broken board XD
But I confess that it is not your case

but those type answers

Make me angry. why?
I do an example:
It's like someone that wan't change the gear of a car but don't know what is and how use the friction.
All this to say to you thath install a chip it's not hard (you don't need necessary a semi-professional tool) but the real difficult is when you don't have a solid basics to know how and where find the problem

Ok now time to help you:
As I wrote few posts go, i've haved some problem. The blue led problem it's a side effect of wrong install
In my case was one of mechacon chip pin was desoldered and make fake contact with the mobo.
The result are the some problem (plus when start, sometimes,appeared the red screen)
But honestly my motherboard don't becomes hot (and it is very serious that it becomes hot to the point of melting the solder!!!)

I've said destroy another ps2 because, using logic, a warm bels, or non working switch don't trasform a ps2 in an oven
And at long try thi useless test, as said olivera in the past post, you are going to bring up some other even more serious problem...
Is a serious mistake to underestimate a cable that warm up to the point of loose!

Sorry for my fuzzy english

 

Not the Mars pro, here is a link to what the chip looks like and it has to be the M2 MP-168 or MP-188 which are the only to that work on V0-V5.

http://www.laser-head.com/index.php?controller=mall&action=show&id=283

 

Fireaza, GH-006 and GH-007 have different syscon boards, because half of the buck converter circuitry is different.

GH-007 has the older GS chip from SCPH-10000 so it's GS runs at 2v instead of 1.8 like the newer GS chip. Perhaps that's why it stopped working.

At least no damage happened. Sorry I thought you had two GH-007 units there.

I have used (but working) original matrix chips that were yanked from consoles when users *UPGRADED* to a preferable softmod solution.

Well they don't care about what disc they're shoving on the console and to be honest most of them aren't even using discs anymore so they just tossed the chips out.

So yes I can send you a working legit Matrix Infinity chip.

 

Yes, that wire is definitely an issue The cause would totally be that I haven't tinned the wire enough, I used the same wire (Kynar) on the other legs and they're sticking to the legs like nobody's business I just need to re-do that wire and that should fix the issue, I just need the time and motivation to do that ;P

Ah, you're a professional electrician? That would explain why my monkeying around annoyed you

When I say "hot" I might be exaggerating, since I don't know how hot the PS2's mainboard is suppose to be (I don't have a hobby of running my electronics for a few hours then pulling them apart and touching them It's certainly not hot enough to melt solder, since none of the other connections de-solder, it's just that one wire, which, as I've mentioned above, probably wasn't tinned enough. It's not "too hot to touch" hot, like the heatsink is, but it's certainly warm.

I've never seen that chip before, I'd probably have a hellva time finding it in Australia :\ What do you think about l_oliveira's suggestion of running a Matrix Infinity chip instead? Are these suited for older PS2s like the chip you linked to?

Ah, that would explain why it refused to work!

It is sounding like this modchip I've installed, both the chip itself and it's firmware might be adding to my troubles, so it would probably be best to use a chip that's actually intended for use in the V3. Are the Matrix Infinity chips fully-compatible with the V4 PS2? One thing I'm worried about is I've heard that the Modbo 4.0 has features that the original Matrix chips didn't have. Stuff like entering sleep mode after boot to prevent the chip from overheating, stealth mode to avoid anti-modchip checks in games, dual layer disk support, PSX disk swapping support, automatic disk type (PS2, PSX etc) detection, keeping signals sent to the laser to a minimum to prevent laser wear, things like that. Any truth to this matter? Also, would the Matrix Infinity's wiring be significantly different from the Modbo 4.0's?

 

Only one wire is different: CX (MI generates it's clock internally)

 

Oh, so I can basically leave my existing wiring (after fixing the aforementioned fussy wire issue) where it is, minus the CX wire? Simple enough.

From what I've read, supposidly, having the CX wire is better, due to an on-board clock "causing clocking issues and a lower boot rate". What's the straight dope here? Also, what's your thoughts on the possible missing features I mentioned above? Oh, and just to be sure, Matrix Infinity chips are designed for use in V3 PS2s right?

 

An "orange dot" matrix chip will work on ANY PS2 ranging from GH-004 motherboard until the very last model.

It does not work on GH-008/009 (It's a PCMCIA type) because of it's bios being similar to the GH-001/002/003 boards.

Blue dot matrix will work on same units as the orange up to 70000. Orange dot was released with updated CPLD code for the newer "universal" BIOS ROM. (the mechacon EEPROM which sets region on these units).

Also, that CX talk is trash talk which only belong on discussions about fake modchips. The matrix has perfect sync with the PS2 and it even "guess" (it puts a trojan on the system ram and actually detects) the kind of disc is on the drive, switching automagically to the PS1/DVD video mode if such disc is inserted.

 

Ah, I see thanks! Do you have any of the "orange dot" ones? The Modbo chips are clones of the Matrix chips aren't they? Why is their compatibility less than the original?