Sega Saturn JP2 Lifted Pad Disaster - How to Fix this?

Hello.

Alternative title: When old bad mod work comes back to bite you on the arse.

The first mod I ever did was this refresh rate mod to my PAL Version 1 Sega Saturn using pads labelled JP1 and JP2 on the underside of the motherboard soldered to a switch.

The mod was bad in every conceivable way. I applied too much heat and pressure, did not use flux, the solder was cheap and I used 22awg solid core wire. I had no idea what I was doing and just jumped right in with no soldering practice or soldering knowledge. The result was cold solder joints and an ugly mess that somehow stayed in place for the last year and half. Well as you can see it snapped when I did it and I just stuck the wire back down. Unforgivable. But this is all I ever did that was truly bad. After this mod I didn't do another until I had learnt how to do it correctly.



So I am much improved at this now and decided to fix this mess. I've had lots more practice and learnt the principles and procedures for good soldering so this should have been no problem now.

I gently removed everything and cleaned up the old solder. Applied flux and a fresh blob of solder to each pad. 350c heat and held iron with no pressure for no more than a second and half at most.

As soon as I put the wire to JP2 the pad just lifted seemingly from the weight of the wire alone. This brought with it the surrounding copper of the via.

I believe I damaged this when I first did the mod or at least I made it so fragile that it easily came away now.



Does anyone know an alternative point for JP2 or a way to fix this?

I was thinking a small square of copper tape to replace the pad and a resistor leg bent so it goes across the pad and down the via. This then soldered in place. Does that seem viable?

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

I'm pretty sure that end of JP2 just goes to ground - so you should be able to use any other ground point on the board.

 

Ok cheers. The Pal console currently defaults to 60hz with this connection missing. Switching it to what would be 50hz actually does work even with the missing connection, but strange things happen. It jumps back and fourth from 60 to 50 before settling on 60.

Do you know what the other three pads are?

Many thanks

 

Basically, all JP1/JP2 do is switch the NTSC/PAL line between GND and +5V - the two commoned pads at the top of your photo go off to the chips, and the other end of JP1/JP2 wire to +5V and GND respectively.

Without the pulldown, the signal will just float, which is the reason for the behavior you are seeing.

 

Awesome. So not a complete disaster then. I'll just find a new ground point and it should be good to go. Thanks loads.