Snes mini power scematic

Discussion in 'Repair, Restoration, Conservation and Preservation' started by retronerd, Dec 28, 2015.

  1. retronerd

    retronerd Spirited Member

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    I have an snes mini i bought on ebay! It was sold as is.

    When i plug it in and turn it on i get nothing.

    I was testing if it got any power and on the Voltage regulator it only gets 0v on the left pad and on the right pad 0v.
    I changed voltage regulator from a working unit but i get the same results?
    Im using an working original powersupply.


    I dont even get power to the regulator?

    There is no Continuity between these spots.http://www.ladda-upp.se/bilder/tulhofrnqqntjk/

    So where is the rail broken? anyone who knows the way the power goes?
     
  2. Bad_Ad84

    Bad_Ad84 The Tick

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    Test the fuse

    [​IMG]
     
  3. retronerd

    retronerd Spirited Member

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    i got Continuity at the fuse
     
  4. Bad_Ad84

    Bad_Ad84 The Tick

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    When you took continuity measurement in your picture, was the power switch on?

    If yes, you could have a faulty power switch.
     
  5. retronerd

    retronerd Spirited Member

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    no the power wasnt on when i tested the fuse
     
  6. retronerd

    retronerd Spirited Member

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    Ofcourse the power was on!
     
  7. retronerd

    retronerd Spirited Member

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    when i got the unit there was rust around the power switsh so i bridged it so its always on but the power comes in bto the regulator efore it reach the power switsh right?
     
  8. Bad_Ad84

    Bad_Ad84 The Tick

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    No, power goes into regulator when switch is on. With switch off you have no continuity between points on your first pic.

    Sounds like your switch is the issue.
     
  9. retronerd

    retronerd Spirited Member

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    thats correct but i have the power on, and i have power thru the fuse and the black little chip between the fuse, i mean the on off switsh is faar fron this right?
     
  10. Bad_Ad84

    Bad_Ad84 The Tick

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    I dont know if its a language issue or something, but you are not listening to what I say.

    The fuse comes before the switch. It sounds like the switch itself, your bypass of the switch or traces/components in the switch area are your problem.
     
  11. retronerd

    retronerd Spirited Member

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    Here is a photo of the switch http://www.ladda-upp.se/bilder/ushexiyjwqgomo/
     
  12. Bad_Ad84

    Bad_Ad84 The Tick

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  13. retronerd

    retronerd Spirited Member

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  14. Bad_Ad84

    Bad_Ad84 The Tick

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    I did not say to do that. Obviously you will get continuity there.

    Those holes go through the PCB to the otherside. That is where you are missing continuity
     
  15. retronerd

    retronerd Spirited Member

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    can you mark where i shall solder it please?
     
  16. Bad_Ad84

    Bad_Ad84 The Tick

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    The points I circled, look on back of the PCB. Will also be 6 holes (2x 3 holes). You need to put wire down the holes and solder to both sides of the PCB.
     
  17. retronerd

    retronerd Spirited Member

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    I think i understand, so i just make a new route from upside holes to underside holes on same spot on the motherboard?
     
  18. Bad_Ad84

    Bad_Ad84 The Tick

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    correct
     
  19. retronerd

    retronerd Spirited Member

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    I have tested with multimeter it seems like one row with holes have a broken trace:) How did you suspect that this was the problem?
    Thanks
     
  20. Bad_Ad84

    Bad_Ad84 The Tick

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    You need to repair both rows. They have 3 how's to allow more current to flow. Both rows are damaged, even if you have continuity they both still need repairing to allow enough current to flow. You can just put wire into all 6 holes and solder both sides of the pcb to repair it.
     
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