Sony DTL-H1000 memory soldering problem

Hello!
I'm new on Assembler forum and I want to say Hello.

I have Sony DTL-H1000 Programmer Tool with broken memory chip:


Someone without soldering skils has desoldered the memory and break soldering field.
I need help with that. May I desolder KV48V514BJ-6 chip from other SCPH-1002 PCB and solder it to DTL-H1000? Or I need program that memory chip first?
That memory stores any data all the time or only if console is running?

 

Yes, you can just desolder the chip from another board and install it - those are RAM chips so they only contain any information while the machine is running.

The missing pad could be a bit of a problem - it's one of the data lines and is only connected to that specific clip, so you can't jumper in from one of the other devices in the array.

 

Thx for fast reply.
I've checked route from that pad to chip and it looks like that:

Will be OK?

 

You can try, I would be more tempted to scrape off the lacquer from the track.

 

Ok, done. New memory soldered.
Console not working.
TV blinks one time after power on PSX but there is no audio or video.
What could be wrong?

 

Could be almost anything - do you know why that RAM was suspected as being the faulty part in the first place?

If you have decent soldering skill, you might find it easier to swap the boot ROM and the mechacon chip onto another working PU-7 board.

 

I don't have another PU-7 board, only PU-8.
I think my skills are not enough to repair it and I need someone to help me with that.
It is very nice PSX version and I don't want to waste it.

 

OK, what have you checked so far?

If I have a dead board like that, the first thing I do is check for the correct voltages coming from the PSU and that all the on-board fuses are intact. Then get the scope out and look at the clock signals and the address and data lines on the boot ROM. If you aren't familiar with what to expect it helps to have another board you can cross-check with.

 

I have checked all fuses which are OK. I don't have osciloscope to check signals.
Another PCB from SCPH-1002 is not complete, so I don't have another board to cross check.

 

Ok, I have an oscilloscope, but I don't know how and what mesure

 

Potential advice for later, not right now:

If the board seems completely dead and you're ready to give up, instead desolder the CD controller from it and the equivalent consumer PAL board. Such an equivalent PAL board may not exist, though; I think that the first European consumer release might've been newer hardware than the first DTL-H1002. However, I think that the first couple of PS1 generations had identical pinouts of CD controllers, so it may not matter as long as your replacement is an SCPH-1002.

Move the CD controller from the dead board to the consumer unit. Presto - good as new! The BIOS in PS1 debug systems is identical to the BIOS on the equivalent retail board.

I forget exactly which chip is the correct CD controller. There are two; one is the DSP, which is the same. The other is sometimes called the Mechacon. The mechacon is a smaller chip, and is the one you want to swap.

 

I have three dead psone's I got for £1 off ebay, someone killed them by plugging the same faulty controller in to each one. I originally bought them to steal the lasers but I am tempted to find out what is dead on them. But sitting in front of one all day probing voltages trying to find a dead fuse hasn't gotten on to my fun list.

 

On the PU-7 and the early PU-8 boards it's the 80 pin QFP on the back of the board. The chip marked "IC304" in this photo. Several of the DTL-H1000s I've seen used a OTP version of the chip (MC68HC705L16), and these only seem to work in boards that have exactly the same hardware as the one they were installed in. In particular, I couldn't get it to boot when installed on a board with the CXD2510Q CD DSP (I.E. any of the PU-8s).

http://wiki.assemblergames.com/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=wiki:sony:pcbphotos:pu-7_bottom.jpg

Depending on the revision, it might have a fuse (marked "PS600", IIRC) right next to the DC input jack - if so, check for volts on both sides of that. If it's not there (or not blown) then the rest of the fuses are on the left hand side of the board about 2cm behind the power switch. PS606 is one that kills everything if blown, but just testing both sides of all of them with a meter doesn't take very long.

Having said that, the PSone power supply circuitry is a lot more fragile than the old ones, and I have seen quite a few that had blown up regulator ICs. They also redesigned the power circuits seemingly with every board revision, which adds to the feeling that they weren't that reliable.

A good place to start are the address and data lines on the RAM and the boot ROM - look for things like stuck lines or strange looking intermediate signal levels. Also check the output of the oscillators for a reasonable looking signal. If you haven't done this before then another working board is practically a necessity, since it gives you some idea what "normal" looks like.

 

Does the OTP version have read-back of the firmware still enabled? =)

 

No, although I'm not quite sure how they disabled it. Those chips have a boot ROM that's used for programming and verify which you access by applying 2xVdd to one of the pins during reset. This worked as expected on the new chips I got, but didn't do anything on the ones I pulled from the DTL-H1000 (it just locked up). Maybe they overprogrammed the boot ROM with zeros after they programmed the chip. Pity, it would have made things a lot easier.

 

Ok, console almost working fine After using hot air gun, nearest memory chip (IC109) has desoldered 2 pins.
Almost, because PAL game is starting (have only orginal PAL game and CD-R with NTSC-J game) and working few minutes. After few minutes game is freezing or can't load (Crash Bandicoot can't load level). -J game don't want to start, screen iz freezing after Playstation logo shows up.
I need to check console on another PAL game. I think thah CD have too many scratches. When game is freezing, CD is still rotating.
I hope that You understand my language

 

Have you got another optical pickup assembly to try? That's pretty much the behavior you get when the CD pickup is worn out.

 

I tried with other laser units from SCPH-5502 and 7502 but both are dead or almost dead.
I checked also with clean game disc. It works fine, but I need to test it at home for few hours. Audio CD plays good, without noising.
I need advice - what and where buy a new laser unit?
Thanks for replays guys! I'm so happy

 

Best thing to do is to get a KSM-440BAM from a PSone - just change over the grey top with the black one from the existing laser.

If you don't have one of those, you can use the KSM-440AEM pickup from a SCPH-750x or 900x, but you need to modify some of the plastic parts or exchange them between the pickups.

 

I recived a new BAM laser unit.
Unfortunately a new unit is worse then the old one. It can't read CD with many scratches even almost new CD.
Maybe previous user tried to calibrate laser unit using bias and gain pots on the motherboard?
http://dogbreath.de/PS1/LaserAlignment/Laser.html