Sony PVM Power Switch replacement question

Discussion in 'Repair, Restoration, Conservation and Preservation' started by bahamutfan64, Jan 24, 2017.

  1. bahamutfan64

    bahamutfan64 Active Member

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    I've a PVM 20L5 with a broken power button. Right now I've pried open the power switch assembly and set the actual switch to the "on" position, and with an isobar I can turn the monitor on and off.

    If I wanted to wire a replacement toggle switch (very difficult to source an original replacement part for the power button), looking at the schematic below, how would I need to do it? I can solder and mount the toggle switch (or even a push button?) in lieu of the broken original button, but unfortunately I have no idea what the wiring should be like.

    Thanks!


    IMG_6093.jpg
     
  2. LeHaM

    LeHaM Site Soldier

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    so is the switch a plunger type?

    Lots of TV's used them back in the day, it might have a part number on it (I'm talking about the actual switch not the sony assembly).


    Also find out the current rating if you are going to patch a different one in, I'm assuming PVM's are like domestic CRT's and the main switch instantly powers on the unit (no soft standby). Obviously it'll have a surge or much higher warm up current draw..
     
  3. bahamutfan64

    bahamutfan64 Active Member

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    So the switch is very similar to a click pen, whereby you can push it in to turn it both on or off. There's a long plastic shaft that is attached to the switch found on the J board, and they're not detachable from each other. The shaft itself is broken into several pieces, and due to how it shattered it would be extremely difficult to glue it back together and have it last for any appreciable amount of time.

    How would I find the current rating that's appropriate? The unit has no standby; it's instant on or instant off.

    Thanks!
     
  4. TriMesh

    TriMesh Site Supporter 2013-2017

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    Sounds like you want something like this:

    http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/140/eswitch_P030113-540448.pdf

    The operating current of that monitor is going to be about 1A - maybe 1.something max. The biggest current draw is from the degauss coil, but that's only a few seconds - certainly the 7A switch I linked will be more than adequate.
     
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