Star Ocean

Thanks so I should just buy the TC1262 and ditch the other vreg? Thanks for your help, amazing work
Just out of curiosity not having GND on the regulator connected means what exactly?

 

It means that it wanders to find a new reference ground (the output of the 1117 will be higher or lower than 1.7V).

 

Thanks rama,
So one of these?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-TC...741124?hash=item3d1ace6d84:g:FDsAAOSwf05XPBwA

 

No guarantees though! And use a recommended cap on Vout (forgot whether it was 10uF or more, check the datasheet!). They're somewhat pricey too but in small quantities it seems the same everywhere.

 

Sorry zzattack, thanks for helping me with this, when you say check the datasheet what do you mean?
I've followed this thread too and tried with a 100uF cap, no go
http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=137782
Kinda sad I never got it working while you had no problems >>

 

I mean check the TC1262 sheet: http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/21373C.pdf
It mentions requiring only 1µF on the Vout pin so that shoudl be pretty easy.
I've made a few more of these carts since last post and they've all worked well on 1-chip, 2-chip, super nintendo and super famicoms, and even on a retron 5 without issue.

 

Thanks for that zzattack
I was unsuccessful with the original one because I've already soldered the flash chip and couldn't do the (b) cut. I've tried doing the normal mmonkey method with the TC1262 and 1uF cap which was still freezing in the same spot.

I started preparing another Star Ocean board
It's not clear whether I need to (b) cut in the same spot on the back of the board ?
I assume I do as there's still continuity between the VIN and VOUT, the goal is to isolate the two?
This is the only type of tantalum cap I can get, I hope it will do
https://www.jaycar.com.au/1uf-25vdc-tantalum-capacitor/p/RZ6627

 

It's close to 2 AM here and I'm sorry to report the other repro is freezing as well.
I've followed the guide and didn't even lift the SDD-1 pin to convert it to PAL
Tested on the US Snes Mini
Can you confirm the checksum of your Star Ocean please?
Mine is
75519115d1a94528376771a6283f08f1 Star01.bin

The only difference I can see is the capacitor, yours looks like an SMD one, maybe I should try getting the exact same one, you wouldn't happen to have a link to where you bought yours, if it was ebay?

 

From my experience, the 29L3211 on a Star Ocean always makes the game crashes on a 1Chip SNES, and I've never found a solution. I supposed this is because the chip runs at 3.3V, but the voltage levels of the rest of the cart are at 5V and the 1Chip SNES don't like it.
Hopefully some can confirm that here.

I've stop using donor and now prefer to use the 96Mbits PCB from Retrostage for Star Ocean

For my old repro, I've removed the 29L3211, and made an small adapter for a clean installation 27C322 for SDD-1 so I'm sure everything runs at 5V.

 

Hi TheRealPhoenix
Thanks for sharing, do you still have the adapter files so I can order one from oshpark?
I have resoldered the capacitor this morning and I actually got it to go past the initial freeze however the video still crashes during the intro on the ship while the captain is moving, the audio just keeps playing
I've just uploaded a video of it:

I've already linked the nintendoage post of another user who seems to have had the same issue and he fixed it by using a 100 uF capacitor and two zener diodes in series
I'd love to get this going on the 1CHIP but it seems it's not meant to be

 

I've tried a lot of solution for the 29L3211, at the end I used two resistors as voltage divider (similar as diodes) and a cap to filter the Vout, but it was still crashing on the 1Chip Snes of my friend.

Here's the PCB, but I'll eventually reupload a newer version with some correction: it's a bit too wide and it fits realy tight in the cart.
I'll also make a video for a similar adapter for SA-1.
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/haQbJAFL

 

Thank you for that, appreciate the info too

 

Just to let everyone know, I've also tried the two zener diodes in series, with and without a cap and still freezes on the ship

 

You don't want zener diodes on this circuit, though. You want normal diodes. Zener diodes have special properties which actually are detrimental to this case of use.