A brief explanation of sync: Sync, which is short for synchronization, controls the timing (the scan rate) of the electron gun in a CRT. CRTs work by shooting electrons (using an electron gun) at a phosphor-coated plate of glass (the screen) which fluoresces when struck by the electrons. Unlike modern displays like LCDs, CRTs don't render the entire image at once. Instead, they "scan" the image one line at a time at such a rate that the human eye perceives it as one image. Sync, which actually has two components - horizontal and vertical sync - conveys to the CRT the rate at which it scans horizontally and vertically. In SCART, sync can be expressed in one of two ways: either as "composite sync", which is horizontal and vertical sync combined into one signal, or composite video as sync - which is no different from ordinary composite video, but the CRT may have the ability to "strip" the sync information from the composite video signal. In other systems, such as VGA (also known as RGBHV), horizontal and vertical sync are conveyed via separate leads. Apparently your display does not support composite video as sync; it requires composite sync (C-sync). So in order for it to display properly, you'll need a sync stripper, which it sounds like you already have. So I don't know what the issue could be, but there's a description of sync, anyway.
Thanks a lot la-li-lu-le-lo!! The difference between composite sync and sync over composite video was confusing me. I think now I get it. As it looks, all my RGB cables are wired to support sync over composite video only. That's where the sync stripper should come in and strip the sync signal from composite video and output it as composite sync, that my PVM should understand. What if a RGB cable sends composite sync through the SyncStrike? Does it just get passed through and everything works? I'm asking, because eg. retrogamingcables.co.uk is selling 2 different SCART>BNC cables for the PVM. One with built-in sync stripper and one without. Why would anyone get the cable without sync stripper? You'd always be on the safe side with a sync stripper!? Regarding my problem with the PVM, there's nothing I can do... Rewiring my RGB cables? Nope, not needed, that's why I have the SyncStrike. Buying a SCART>BNC cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk? Nope, because it will give me the same results as with my current cables. Anyone need a 50kg paperweight?
I think the SyncStrike ought to pass through composite sync, though I'm not sure, since I've never used one. You might want to buy a cable without a sync stripper if you already knew that your display supports composite video as sync. For example: my display, the PVM-20M2MDU, natively supports composite video as sync - so there's no need for a sync stripper. Most European TVs accept composite video as sync. Are you sure that the cable you're using has a sync stripper inside? Someone in a different thread had the same problem, and later discovered that their cable didn't have a sync stripper. To elaborate a little on composite video: composite is basically RGB and composite sync combined into one signal. Since this signal includes sync, it's possible to extract just the sync information from it. That's what TVs and sync strippers do with the composite video signal.
Two different markets. Composite sync is standard for arcade, professional, or other high-end use. Composite video is standard for consumer game consoles.
According to the table the PVM-2950QM doesn't support sync over composite video. That's why I have the SyncStrike as sync stripper in between. My 3 other consumer CRTs work just fine with the RGB cables I have, because they support sync over composite video. That's how everything is connected: SCART Input (RGB cables wired for sync over composite video) | v SyncStrike -> VGA>BNC cable -> PVM2950QM ^ | 5V 500mA power supply [EDIT] Finally got my MD2 working. The AV connector seems to have a problem. After wiggling the cable it works just fine. So the whole SyncStrike thingy works. But what about eg. the PAL SNES, NEO GEO MVS, etc... [EDIT2] Sony PVM-2950Q / 2950QM Service Manual (22,8 MB) [EDIT3] PAL SNES issue fixed. Bad contact apparently. (LINK with pics and video; GERMAN!)
I own the PVM 20l5, which is capable of displaying RGB/Component within the same input. You go to the monitor's menu and switch it from RGB to component (as far as I understand it) Would I be able to buy a BNC switch box so that I'd have one set of plugs for my SCART connection and another for my Component connections? I don't see why it wouldn't work-- I'd still have to switch the menu setting of course, but at least I wouldn't be putting wear and tear on the monitor's inputs, and I'd be saving a little bit of time and effort, but since I'm still new to all of this stuff, I thought I'd ask. Also, I think I know the answer to this, but I'd also be looking to display a Dreamcast via VGA. It sounds like I need to get the BNC-> VGA cable, but also a T splitter to combine the H and V lines? Thought since I'm making this post, I'd confirm that as well.
Yes, that ought to work, as long as the switch has enough leads. You'd need 4 for RGB and 3 for component, and 2 more if you want to include audio as well. You'd need a sync combiner; a circuit to convert the H and V sync into composite sync. A simple adapter won't work. I'm not even sure that a sync combiner would work; I've actually wondered about that myself, but I really don't know. In theory it ought to work.
Awesome, thank you! The retired Sony tech who sold me the set (awesome guy) confirmed with me it can display 31khz. Maybe I need to hammer away at him exactly how I can utilize that because his response back was a simple "Yes on 31khz" even though I was asking him about how I could go about it. Also, dumb question, but I've seen some people do this. I bought a couple of Hama switch boxes that I plan on daisy chaining. First off, is that fine? And secondly, I may get a third one to daisy chain. It seems fine to do, but is it? Even buying three of these to get 7 inputs is cheaper than buying the ones with 5 or 6. Also, as a possible option, could I do the expansion board that gives me another RGB input? As far as I understand, it wouldn't be self terminating, and possibly wouldn't be usable as far as trying to use it as a second input like I want? The Sony tech also poo poo'd over the idea of buying that module because it wouldn't help me, but I wasn't sure why.
Doesn't the 20L5 have 2 RGB/component inputs? Why not just connect a switch to each input? I can't help you there. I know certain PVMs had expansion ports, but I know nothing about the modules they used.
Nah, it has an input and an output (unless I'm completely wrong on that, it would be awesome if there was two inputs)
Ah, yeah I guess you're right. My bad. Some PVMs have 2 RGB/component inputs. That might be just the medical units.
I just got a Sony PVM-20L2MD unit (its being shipped now). Can anyone confirm that I can use CVBS as my external sync with this model? My cables are already built with this in mind, so if somebody can confirm this, that would be awesome. If not, I'll rewire for C-sync or order a sync stripper. If nobody knows, I'll post back here with my results once I get it.
Hmm, the spec sheet doesn't specifically say, but when you receive it, give it a go and let us know! You won't damage anything by trying, if it doesn't support CVBS-as-sync, you'll just get an unstable picture.
https://www.mediafire.com/?fbn1rn71244cgo7I added the Sony PVM20M7MDE in at the end: [hr][/hr] Model list: [TABLE="class: grid, width: 1100, align: left"] [TR] [TD]Model No[/TD] [TD]Size[/TD] [TD]CVBS Inputs[/TD] [TD]S-Video Inputs[/TD] [TD]RGB BNC[/TD] [TD]RGB Other*[/TD] [TD]Y/Pb/Pr Component Supported?[/TD] [TD]C-Sync Supported?[/TD] [TD]HV-Sync Supported?[/TD] [TD]CVBS as sync source?[/TD] [TD]480p/31kHz support?[/TD] [TD]Colour Systems Supported[/TD] [TD]Notes and/or Manual link.[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PVM-1271Q/ PVM-1371QM[/TD] [TD]13"[/TD] [TD]1[/TD] [TD]0[/TD] [TD]1[/TD] [TD]1 D/A CMPTR DB25[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]NTSC PAL SECAM[/TD] [TD]- 1371QM is European 220V model - Manual[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PVM-1442Q(M)[/TD] [TD]14"[/TD] [TD]3* (* one in VTR)[/TD] [TD]1[/TD] [TD]1[/TD] [TD]1 D CGA DE9[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]NTSC PAL SECAM[/TD] [TD]- M suffix denotes 220V model - Manual[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PVM-2030/ PVM-2530[/TD] [TD]20"/ 25"[/TD] [TD]3* (* one in VTR)[/TD] [TD]1[/TD] [TD]0[/TD] [TD]1 D/A CMPTR DB25[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]NTSC PAL SECAM[/TD] [TD]- Manual[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PVM-20M2MDU (Medical)[/TD] [TD]20"[/TD] [TD]1[/TD] [TD]1[/TD] [TD]2[/TD] [TD]0[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]NTSC PAL SECAM[/TD] [TD]- Brochure[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PVM-20M2U[/TD] [TD]20"[/TD] [TD]2[/TD] [TD]1[/TD] [TD]1[/TD] [TD]0[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]NTSC PAL SECAM[/TD] [TD]- Manual[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PVM-2950Q(M)[/TD] [TD]29"[/TD] [TD]2[/TD] [TD]2[/TD] [TD]1[/TD] [TD]0[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]Y[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]NTSC PAL SECAM[/TD] [TD]- M suffix denotes 220V model - Manual[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PVM-20M7MDE [/TD] [TD]20" [/TD] [TD]1 [/TD] [TD]1 [/TD] [TD]2 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD]Y [/TD] [TD]Y [/TD] [TD]N[/TD] [TD]N [/TD] [TD]Y [/TD] [TD]PAL [/TD] [TD]- Manual - Spec table [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [SUP] * D = Digital TTL RGBI | A = Analogue RGBS/RGBHV [/SUP]More models will be added as people post them in this thread. Q: I don't see an RGB SCART input on the back of this thing! How do I connect my consoles? A: Through the BNC connectors. If you already have RGB SCART cables for your consoles, you can buy a small adaptor with a female SCART connector on one end, and a handful of male BNC plugs on the other end. This is usually a passive adaptor, simply breaking out the Red, Green, Blue, CVBS, Left-Audio, and Right-Audio pins to separate BNC plugs. However, it can also contain a sync stripper circuit, to extract a pure C-sync signal from the CVBS signal. Q: WTF man!?!? Are you HIGH??? Why would I want to even TOUCH composhit video in my GLORIOUS RGB setup? Don't talk to me scrub! A: Settle petal! First, some background. The traditional way to connect a console to a TV in Europe was using the SCART connector. In this setup, the Red, Green, Blue, AND CVBS signals all travel down the cable into the TV, along with the audio and some sense voltages. The picture displayed on the TV is indeed the RGB-supplied picture, however the CVBS signal still has a part to play! The Red, Green, and Blue data alone is not enough to show a picture on your TV screen. The deflection coils in your TV need instructions on when to start steering the beam left-to-right for each line, and top-to-bottom for each field or frame. These instructions are the sync pulses. Because SCART has no dedicated pins for sync pulses to be carried, it makes use of the otherwise redundant CVBS signal, and extracts the sync pulses from there. [hr][/hr] I don’t think I am able to test for
I just bought a sony pvm 20m2e for 25 euros, how do you bring up the grids to setup the monitor correctly? Also should I buy the cable with the sync stripper or without? Thanks!
I don't think there is a grid pattern built in. What I've used to calibrate my PVM is 240p test suite, it's open source and on many consoles.
Alright, I'll check it out, I hope the 240p test suite works on a modded xbox original. So any ideas about the cable? I'll just be using a ps1 with the official sony rgb cable and probably a snes with a rgb cable.
