Time to mod the ol' PS2! (installing a mod chip)

The problem with Dreamcast was different. It was about using a lower density media, making the sled motor move more often, not only yielding lower read speeds due to slower seek times, but also increased the wear/tear from the motors. On the most part, the difference on laser pickup at the Dreamcast was minimal as it did not have a laser power control circuit aggressive as the one present on the PS2. So the biggest issue with using copies on the Dreamcast is wear/tear of the motors on the drive. And both motors on the Dreamcast are of brush type, which have wear/tear even under normal usage conditions, mind you.

 

The laser eye trying to constantly focus is more sensitive then a motor pulling the assembly back and fourth or the disc spin motor. The fail is the eye which has far more continual adjustment, not the motor pulling the assembly around or the motor spinning the disc.

@ fireaza - Agree, a laser eye will work harder on burned discs over a pressed disc.

 

You clearly don't understand how the Dreamcast drive work. It uses a Optical Pickup (it's name is not laser eye, mind you) which is built and designed to read writable discs (not re-writable, writable) and that will not damage it.

So MOST DREAMCAST drives which fail do fail because the MOTORS wear out due to the sled moving too much.

And another explanation is due:


You know what is AD-X ? AD-X is the ADPCM format that most Dreamcast games used for encoding it's music. A perfect example is Crazy Taxi, which is a VERY SMALL game (150MB if I am not mistaken) and it plays AD-X compressed songs all the time while you play. Also it has to load textures for the buildings, cars, pedestrians and streets as you run through the city.

If you're playing a poorly burnt copy of the game you will have problems with textures not appearing in time due to the file seek algorithm on the Dreamcast give preference for keeping the song playing so it will aways go back to read the music, but will skimp reading the textures just to not need to stop the music playback.

Now my point is, that activity causes the laser to move back and forth during the game play. In a GD because the density is higher the drive will not need to move as many tracks to seek the files it need since they're closer to each other on the original disc. That is how the fake discs ruin the Dreamcast drive.


On a PS2 what you said do happen but not on a Dreamcast. The reasons they break are different, because they work different internally.

 

Well, judging from the discussion, damage to the PS2's laser when using a modchip is unavoidable Is my only option to also own an American PS2? This is a bit annoying, I'd really rather have just 1 console to play my PS2 and PS1 games.

 

In that case I'd suggest reducing whatever potential risk there is, by getting a flip top and hard drive along with the modchip. Less tray wear to use a flip top. Less laser wear for games that'll work from HDD (you don't even need to use PS2's laser if installing outside the console).

The HDD load time benefits are immense by all means.

 

Buy a slim (v13+) and mod it.

Mine has been modded for years and still going strong.

If the laser does break, you can replace it in about 2 minutes and like 8 screws. Hell of a lot easier than the phats.

 

Aw, but I like the design of the phat

 

You'd probably have to get a power converter depending where you live as well...

Take bad's advice and jump on a slim, just easier and less hassle also not expensive.

 

I've already got a step-down transformer for my other Japanese and American consoles, so I'm set for that side at least As much as I enjoy playing reto games, half of my hobby is also collecting the consoles themselves, so I also want the console to look a certain way too Now that I think about it, I don't really have very many PS2 and PS1 games. I could sell my collection and buy an American PS2... It would be nice to just mod my PAL PS2 Phat, but there doesn't seem to be a do it without eventually killing the laser.

 

Killing the laser could take ages and you can just replace the laser if/when it happens.

 

Best way is not import power bricks when avoidable. Up to an extra pound of weight for shipping cost, takes up valuable transformer inputs.

Maybe but an American PS2 still won't play Japanese games on its own...

 

Hmmmmm... That really doesn't sound too bad. I mean, when the SNES's fuse blows (I've had that happen to me three times) you have to open the whole thing up to fix it. And that would also mean I won't need to replace my PS2 or my, although small, PS2 collection either. That voltage rewiring you mentioned before, that will help make the laser last longer won't it?

Ok, yeah, let's go back to slappin' a mod chip in this sucka. I guess my biggest questions are the ones from my OP, specifically the installation issue (i.e is that USA diagram also suitable for a PAL console and if there's a downside to using the alternate solder locations)

Not importing the power bricks would be a good way to save shipping, but for a lot of consoles, it's hard to find local replacements since they often have unique plugs or are DC where our version was AC.

 

The only reason to go with a slim (availability of replacement parts) are about to vaporize soon. Sony may completely stop the production of PS2 consoles anytime now. I am almost sure they no longer produce USA units. They still make Japanese, Asian and Mexico/South America units though. I am not sure if they still make PAL (Europe, Australia, Russian) units anymore.

Once the production ceases, so will the production of laser pickups. And finally it will be like it is now for "phats" where only (poorly) refurbished lasers are available.

I refurb "phat" laser pickups here myself with a very high degree of success. The only part that is difficult to obtain is the "brown" SMD ceramic chip that has the laser diodes and photo diodes in a single die... So I honestly recommend you go to a drive emulator and leave your drive alone. Softmod solutions will give you access to playing the games since most of them work perfectly and for trouble titles, use the disc. If you keep using only originals the console is very likely to last a long while.

The SCPH-10000 I have for more than 10 years now had a modchip and fried it's laser a few times. Once I repaired the laser and removed the modchip it has never failed again. And I use it very often.

 

Last year I bought 2 black slims from Amazon at $99 each and installed modbo 4.0. Now a new black slim costs over $200!!!

 

Hey you should arrange a trip to Brazil, we have newer slim models still being sold (I don't even need to mention the Sega Genesis, right?) at cheap...

 

What softmod are you talking about here? I've already looked into Free MC Boot, but it's not suitable since it won't let me run imports.

Also, what modchip were you using? If you had it 10 years ago, it would be an older one, which might not have the laser protection features that ModBo 4.0 has (check a few posts back, I posted the features of the chip, and it made mention of a laser protection feature, which a early generation modchip would probably have lacked). I'm only assuming this of course

Pretty sure I've seen new PS2 Slims here in Australia too

 

Sony US claims they'll get more stock in. Still even if that's true, they don't ship international...

 

Modbo protects nothing. It's a piece of sh*t rip off which uses MATRIX Infinity firmware. Pure trash. >.>

All it do is stop sending MechaCon hack signals when you open/close the tray. All it achieves is force you to reset the PS2 if you open the tray or lid.

Don't trust what Chinese write. They're out to fool you and take your money. Worse than Chinese pirates there's only Nigerian scammers.

Use FMCB and Open PS2 Loader. Because of the work of people like SilverBull and SP193 (both on this forum) you can enjoy it even on the old SCPH-10000 with a external harddrive.

Use your PS2 vanilla with original discs to play own region discs. Get a Japanese or US console if you must.

But if you chip them now, you will regret in a few years when you're left totally without replacement parts...

Modchips are trash. But clones of modchips are worse than trash !


Edit: Oh and I USED TO BE a modchip installer. Now I take them out from the systems I repair and I convince the users to use softmod solutions. Not a single one came back to complain. Only sometimes one come back to have the softmod re-installed due to "MC erasure incidents"...

 

Why would a modchip itself do anything with the laser? Wear from reading burned and scratched games I can understand. Or the perfect scam of modchip makers intentionally sabotaging their work to drive replacements.

After all it does not make sense how interaction with the laser could achieve breaking region code. That feels like one very absurd concept to implement.

 

Modchips achieve "patching" through latching the data bus lines from the MECHACON to DSP communication bus to GND. That's why you need "thick GND wires" when you install the modchip.

That "shorting" cause instability on the MECHACON, which in turn cause software errors. It's coded to "zap" the tracking coil when it crashes. And that's how frying coils happen. I'm just repeating myself here.

The same "latching" happens on the IOP BUS (ROM chip pins) and SONY added some wonky resistor packs into the address lines. When a modchip patches the ROM, the said resistors may overheat and melt internally causing the address lines to short out.

That's the famous "V9/V10 black screen syndrome". Which I also discussed here at a earlier post. Back then it was "WAR" and SONY never enter wars to lose, it seems. Look their instance with the PS3 hacking.

They can't fight software modding with hardware tricks so they are now suing everyone and their pants.