You can load from an image. Sounds like you have an old version. http://pcsxr.codeplex.com/releases/view/50048 Best bios is apparently 1001, not sure why.
Disjaukfia: you can search for a bios file, via a pretty known internet search machine. And you will find them pretty quickly.
Thank you so much for the link, I think the version I had download was for PPC Macs originally, and thanks for the info about the 1001 bios! I'm downloading it now and seeing if I can get it to work! Yeah I've foudn the bios files before, their not the difficult to find, it just finding one that works well with emus, but it looks like 1001 is the best. I'm assuming thats SCPH-1001 and not DTL-H1001 right? Thanks again! Disjaukifa
Yeah you want SCPH-1001. PCSX-R is pretty good, I've played FF7 and Alundra on it no problems. Well I used to, won't run on my Atom processor :-(
I have the new Mac Mini Server which is what I'm doing all my coding and compiling on, so I think the Core 2 Duo has enough power to run PCSX. I just didn't know a more recent build of PCSX existed for Mac. I'm working on compiling some code now and trying to run it. -Disjaukifa
Yeah will be fine on Core 2 Duo with Intel GFX. Running a hackbook these days so no dice for me. Good luck.
I think it will work fine, I tried just running the BIOS in PCSX and it seemed to work well. I'm currently remoting into my Mac so I can do everything fine but the video is a bit laggy over the internet. Working on building the PSXSDK on my Mac Mini, I had built it on my Macbook Air, but not on my Mac Mini yet. -Disjaukifa
PS1 CD-RW Update Well, i just burned an image of Descent NTSC-U for the Playstation to the same CD-RW i tried in all of my Playstation ones, and it does boot and play on my Debug TEST Playstation 2!!!, not a perfect answer i know, but at least another option. As for the lasers, yes i meant the entire laser/sled assembly. If you have a 1000 series Playstation Debugger, then as you know all of the 1000-3000 series lasers will fit with NO mods at all, but we don't want another one of those.. Next is the 5000 series, these may or may not have the plastic base plate, you must remove this and cut away the support piece too, if you want to fit this in your 1000/Debugger. There are two phillips screws to undo, and i use a pair of side cutters to snip the support plastic off. Notice how much longer the ribbon cable is on this laser assembly. Then you need to put your original 1000 series laser "top" on your 5000 series laser.. There are only two screws and one clip holding this on, but it can be a bit fiddly.. If you don't swap this your top case wont fit properly, as the molding was changed when Sony move the laser from the Ten o clock position to Three o clock. Next come the 7000-9000, they have essentially the same laser as each other, long ribbon, wrong laser top for the 1000's, but the don't appear to have the plastic base plate, i really cant remember, and i can't find any better pics. Sorry. But i am 99 percent sure they fit and work fine. Last, but not least is the little PSOne. These have the short ribbon and are perfect for the 1000-3000's, but will not be any good for a 5000-9000 as the ribbon is way to short. No base plastic, but the top cover is not only the wrong shape, but the wrong colour too. Just replace it with your 1000's cover and use the power cable if needed. If you do use a Laser assembly from a 5000 series in a 1000, as you know the ribbon is much longer than needed, it just so happens that it can all be tucked neatly under the RF shielding, and still plug in ok, with very little stress on the ribbon itself. When your finished, i follow this guide for the 1000-3000's to set up your laser, and find the sweet spot.. Happy hunting, and let us know about your programming efforts. http://dogbreath.de/PS1/LaserAlignment/Laser.html
The PlayStation can actually read CD-RWs if you rotate the cd reader's potentiometer with a small precision screw driver. I have not been able to use for general purpose use, though, and only managed to read the first fifty or sixty sectors (around 120-130 kilobytes) from the CD. This is enough for hardware testing stuff, but not for games. And you manage to make it boot the game half the times you try to. When the potentiometer is set to read CD-RWs you cannot read CD-Rs or original discs at all, trying to read them will get your laser stuck. You have to rotate the potentiometer back to its original position to do that. CD-RWs help me not waste many CD-Rs when I want to program the hardware I would recommend to do this if you at least two PS1s, as it can break your PS1 CD reader if you are too careless (never happened to me, though). It is not a big trouble if you do manage to break it... PS1s are cheap right now and will be likely be available at pawn markets for years to come, you can get a drive from one and keep one as a spare motherboard. It's much cheaper to get another entire PS1 than another cd drive. Look at how to rotate it here. It's in Polish (which I do not understand either ) but essentially is what I said above. Considering the potentiometer as a clock, don't rotate to more than "14"! A rotation to something between 12 and 13 is what worked for me. I keep my PSOne open when I have to use CD-RWs, just in case. Remember to press the tiny button to tell the PlayStation that the shell is closed, otherwise nothing will be read. Speaking of replacing cd drives I had to do this to my SCPH-102 PsOne. I use a drive from a "fat" playstation of which I don't know the model because I bought only the drive (probably a 9002). I had to break the plastic supports with strong pliers but otherwise it works like a charm. And about modchips, it feels to me really strange that you can't get a modchip because here in Italy, you cannot get an used PlayStation which was not modded.
Thank you so much, that is amazing information! I tested out my DTL-H1001 last night for several hours and didn't have a problem with it, but I plan on using it . . . alot, so this guide will definitely come in handy. From reading your post, I'm going to go with the PSOne laser and just change the top plastic, that seems to be the best choice for the best laser for the unit. You guys are amazing, I can't thank you enough for all this wonderful information! -Disjaukifa
Very interesting information to say the least! Getting mod-chips in the states is a pain, half the time custom gets them and confiscates them. Though I do know a few US sites sell them, they are becoming more difficult to find all the time. I have 2 Playstation 1s now, and ideally I would like to get a couple more. Some to keep stock like the SCPH-1000, SCPH-1001 and then maybe two with mod-chips so I don't have to use the DTL-H1001 so much! Preferably a modded PSX and PSOne. -Disjaukifa
You can get a PS1 modchip just by programming a common PIC chip. I have a bunch of them around here with some cheap little PIC programmer. The code I have doesn't do stealth so any games that use stealth would need patching or a cheat code but since you are interested in development that shouldn't be an issue. Here is a link about the hex that was ported to a more modern PIC chip. http://www.ps3news.com/PC-General/GaryOPA-graces-PSX-with-12F629-mod-chip-port/ So you can essentially make your own PS1 modchip from generic programmable parts. Well, just one part really. I modded a few consoles with it. Alternatively you can easily boot CD-Rs with a Spring and a PAR cheat cartridge or one of the many clones. Replacing the CD-ROM assembly is easy. The only thing you might need to consider is properly calibrating the new unit once you install it. I don't think i ever did for a few units I put in and they would work better than before where the old units were busted or barely working at all, but they didn't work as new because I didn't feel like looking into properly calibrating them.
Thank you so much MottZilla for the information. I have never done any hardware programing before and I don't have a PIC Programmer, but it might be worth looking into getting! How do I calibrate the new units? Also is it possible to make/convert a Playstation with an internal power supply so that it has an external power supply? The power supply on my DTL-H1001 seems to be going bad. I haven't tried cleaning the connectors yet but if that doesn't work I need to replace the power supply and I rather convert it to the external one if its not too difficult. -Disjaukifa
Check the link at the end of my post, for calibration of your new laser.. Also the power supply comes right out, four screws and one power cable. Make sure you get a donor of the same type, you know a 1000 to 3000, after that the power cable aint the same. I swapped out my 110v US supply for my native 240v UK.. Now i get NTSC output with multi voltage input.. You can buy some third party power supplies that have both power connectors, and will therefore fit all models but the litte PSOne.
I didn't even notice that link, I'm sorry for that, but you just posted so much wonderful information that I missed it :thumbsup: So I should just either find a donor 1000 ~ 3000 or get a replacement one. Wouldn't a replacement one be a better choice? Also the DTL-H1001 is comparable to the SCPH-1001 right? Just want to be sure! Thanks Disjaukifa
Yeh, The DTL-1000 models share almost all of the SCPH-1000 components, other than the motherboard, and the coloured case/memory card/joypad ports. I've never used a third party power supply, because there are so many old cheap playstations for sale.. Its just i think they are mostly made to lower standards that the originals. Your choice really..
No that makes sense. I just need to find an auction for a couple of playstations . . because I want a SCPH-1001 to just have, I need a 3000 model for the power supply, I want a 5000 model because I want to mod it for development and I would like another PSOne for parts/modding purposes. I think I'll just keep my eye out on ebay for some cheap PSX units. Hopeful I can find a selling a couple in one lot. -Disjaukifa
