Xbox PSU of 10,83A 135W on a Corona 135W 9,6A ?

My Xbox is a Corona which says "12V 135W 9,6A" but my power adapter is 10,83A (135W 12V) is it possible to use or should I look for the correct Ampere adapter?

 

You can always use an adapter that has a higher Amps rating than what your device requires.
So yea, you'll be fine.

 

Thanks! While we are on the subject, why do you think Microsoft made such subtle change in the power adaptor ? maybe because the 2010 CPU/GPU chip was made in a different factory than the Corona?

 

I'm not sure if that image is correct though. All Corona revisions are supposedly 120W (I have a power adaptor here says "100-127 AC 120W 9,6A)
Maybe using a 135W in a console designed to run 120W is not a great idea?

 

Reduced current draw means they can save a little on the PSU and more than likely reduced noise and heat.
Also energy efficiency is always a good selling point

 

I was using the 135W 10,86A on my Corona .. lucky I found out and switched to a proper 120W PSU

 

That makes no difference though.

 

The real basic thing here is that a power input decides how much current it wants to draw, and a power output can supply a maximum amount of current as what it's rated for.

In other words, if the 360 needs a 120 watt / 9.6 amp power supply, it will still only draw that much current on a larger supply. The 135 watt supply is actually only going to supply 120 watts max to the 360, because that's all it's pulling. Like others have said above, it *literally* makes no difference if you use a bigger-than-necessary supply, and that's why the keying on the power plugs is designed to prevent newer power supplies (that supply less current) to fit into older 360's, but a newer 360 will still fit an older power plug. It's by design.

 

I'm pretty sure the CPU/GPU are the same - it's the rest of the circuits that were redesigned. The rating would have changed because the engineers would work out how much power the new design used, add a suitable safety margin and then used that as the required spec for the power supply. The rating label on the PSU would simply show whatever spec the customer (MS in this case) had asked for. If it was a small enough change from the previous version, the PSU vendor might not even bother redesigning the electronics - they would just change the label.

An example of this from my own experience is that we ordered a power supply for a product that was being sold in the US - we specified an allowable power range of 100-140V 60Hz. This was what they printed on the rating label, since it was what we called for in our spec - but if you looked at the actual circuits, it was clearly a universal input supply that would also accept 220-240V - but they didn't put that on the label because we didn't have it in our spec.

 

When I worked at a power supply company I saw a lot of stuff like this. It's incredibly common. Most of the time when a company wants a custom part, the manufacturer bases it off something that is compatible, or close to it, and then just modifies it and adds labels, etc., to make it an OEM custom part.

Designing power supply circuits is not at all trivial, so why reinvent the wheel when you can just redesign the enclosure, solder a different plug to the end, and slap a label on it that says "Microsoft"?

 

That is pretty common.

I'm not expert but I've talked to some people who understand this stuff and they told me the drawback for using a 220-240v in 127v environment (they market as bivolt by the way) is that it may not work well in surges (it won't protect). Like an anti-surge for 110-127v equipment would stop working (preventing damage) if the current is above 170v but as the equipment is supposed to work in 220v it will let the current in

Modern PSU for destkop don't suffer from this issue from what I've read. On a side note I used a PS3 Slim 2 years in a 220v city (220v 60hz) and then moved to a 110v and it worked fine.

 

This is a PSU from Microsoft Xbox 360 S.





Do not connect a 110v in a 220v socket

 

In this specific case, it was clearly designed as a universal input supply - the varistor across the line input was rated for up to 270V, the X and Y caps in the input stage were all rated for 275VAC and the input filter caps were 400V. Incidentally, the PSU you just posted the photos of is clearly designed only for operation on 120 - the cap needs to be rated for at least the line voltage * sqrt(2) - so that 200V cap would be good for up to a line voltage of about 140V.

 

So the PSU should be fine if 270V but the anti-surge protection should be no more than 170V if used in 127V countries ?

It seems you understand better than me, allow me to ask a question please: I'm moving to a 220V city and my Xbox 360 is 110V, should I buy a transformer or a 220V psu?

 

You need to be careful with varistors, because there are two different ways of labeling them, and which one is used depends on the manufacturer. Some companies (generally European) mark them with the operating voltage they were designed for - so for example if the last digits of a Thompson part number were "131" (say in "13M00131K") then this would indicate a device designed to withstand a 130V supply voltage (13 + 1 zero) - but some other (mostly Japanese) companies use the varistor voltage (I.E. the voltage at which the device is fully conducting) - so the equivalent Panasonic part would be a C10DK201 - where the "201" indicates "200V" (I.E. the fully broken down voltage) - so if you replaced a "271" (I.E. 270V) part from a European maker with a Japanese part also marked "271" and then plugged it into a 240V supply it would probably blow the fuse very quickly.

As for your 360, if that's the only 120V product you have I would recommend getting a replacement power supply - the problem with stepdowns is forgetting to use them and blowing the PSU up.