Any particular brand of CD-R to minimize laser damage?

Is there any particular brand of CD-Rs that is considered to cause less damage to the DC laser? Thanks

 

Personally I burn Taiyo Yuden CD-Rs with an older Plextor burner.

I've been curious if there was a way to actually quantify the damage being caused to a laser. I suppose probing it with a scope and seeing how much adjusting it does to read an individual disc might do it.

 

Taiyo Yuden and a burner that writes them well (dont just assume, actually do a scan of the CDR after burning it).

Edit:

I dont like my new 3000 post avatar, I liked the 2000 one better =/

 

Well, the lowest that I can burn is 600 kb/s (4x), will this be low enough?

Taiyo Yuden/JVC is fine, right? That's the only kind I can find in Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065DGYQ/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=

 

Slowest speed doesnt always mean best burn - like I said, you need to test media/burner/speed for the best combination and stick with it.

 

I for one have better results burning at around 22x withmy cheap laptop dvd drive. So do the test as bad_ad says. But fir what it matters, I always burnmy games at max speed and they work well, I've been doing this for over a decade and I only had to adjust the laser once, this month actaully.

 

Never understand why people keep pushing that "slower the better so lets get this thing to take 12 days to burn a disc!" propaganda.

 

Slow can be better, but so can faster.

It depends on the writer, the media and the firmware. Basically, do what works for you with the writer you own. If you have no luck, buy a writer people have already posted what media works best. Myce.com is a good place to start.

 

The first "high speed" affordable burners where highly unreliable, this is the reason IMO.

 

I use Musical Fidelity Gold CD-R's for games. They may be $5 each, but the results are the best I've ever had. The burner I use is a NEC burner. I use it to burn Gamecube back-ups and I haven't had a DRE yet..

 

I used to use Verbatim exclusively

 

What ever you do don't use cheap $1 3 pack of Phillip CD-Rs from the Dollar Store. I wasted 4$ and 9 discs and none of them worked, tried another brand and it worked perfectly. haha.

 

i used "noname" printable - burned at 8, 16, 24x. less speed was better, but it depends on quality of exact cd-burner (cd-rw, dwd-rw and etc)!

dreamcast can read cd-r disc, but it all depends on what "status of life" of exact optical head,
some of them adjustable to read cd-r better, another - is dead (bad laser, dirty lens and etc.).
there is capability use optical heads from old pc cd-rom, so i had way to repalce head.

i dont advice use noname disc, just wanna say such disc ccan work good, but has less "life time" than anther more expensive ones.

 

To minimize damage, I would avoid CD-R.

 

I use jvc branded Taiyo yuden cd-r on my optiarc 7280s burner and Ty dvd-r on my pioneer 215 and dvd+r on my samsung 203b and scan them with a benq dw1640

 

Personally, I've used Tesco (largest supermarket chain in UK) and Asda (owned by Wal-Mart) supermarket own branded, as well as a couple of dirt cheap "Mr Micro" ones from "PC World" (a bit like Best Buy.) All burnt at 16x. Not one has failed to boot so far. I think it's more about the source of the images and the app you burn them with. I use ImgBurn with the DiskJuggler CDi extensions. The only disk I ever had faile was one that was an NTSC that I'd mistakenly downloaded instead of PAL.

 

nah they will go bad in time them discs are all made by a chinese company called plasmon and just cos they boot doesn't mean their a good burn/quality. my dreamcast doesnt play well with cheap stuff but runs flawlessly with taiyo yudens/verbatims

 

My DC seems to be more sensitive to HOW the disc is written rather than the brand of disc. I use this in my makefiles

That makes the data portion as session1.iso, copies the first 17 blocks into session2.iso, then pads session2.iso out to 300 blocks with zeroes. The sessions are written one at a time in xa mode. I've never had a problem with discs written this way, while I have nothing but trouble with discs written differently, especially ones with audio sessions, and ESPECIALLY ones written in DAO mode. It's pretty rare that a DAO disc works on my DC at all. SAO seems to be the best mode for writing DC discs, homebrew or not.

 

Yeah, they are Plasmon (just checked) and they were also very cheap. I've got disks I burnt years back using these discs that still works (not DC, mainly PC/Mac software) so I'm in no way worried. Also, burning is so trivial, I'll jsut burn a new copy ;-)

 

My gamecube would only read discs burnt on my pioneer dvd writer at 4x speed (which I think might have been it's maximum), it wouldn't boot them at all if I selected 1x or 2x.

For the dreamcast I just used the cheapest and generally only used them once, they probably failed a week later but I don't care.