Consolized MVS in AES

Repeat for G and B of course

I believe these points are the same as the Jamma connector. I followed the guide on jamma nation x, but I think I checked for continuity between these and the jamma port too. Sorry, but it's a little hard for me to check now

EDIT: That "5" next to the GND line on the IC is just to mark pin 5. That's not really clear in my drawing. Don't go connecting 5V and GND at the same time

 

@Bearking: Did you find doing the consolization difficult? The reason I ask is because all the people I see who offer these kinds of machines seem to ask for very high prices. Like a 300% premium or something, on top of what it costs to actually get the hardware. I assume it's for time and labor (a little is perfectly normal), but usually for neo stuff, it seems to be super inflated compared to other consoles which are offered mod services.

 

Nothing hard about it. It just takes a really long time, especially if you're trying to build it into an AES like I did, and are trying to make it look clean and have everything wired neatly inside.
I could probably have wired everything up in a few hours and have it function properly, but it would have looked like shit.
The bios wiring could have been avoided, or at least made much easier by using a NeoBiosMasta adapter, so that would have saved a lot of time.

For something like this I would at least charge three times the price of the hardware considering the amount of time I put into it. I'm probably not the right person to ask, because I would never do a custom console on commission as it would be far too expensive. Much more than any sane person should every pay, considering the time I usually spend working on these things.

 

What board revision is your AES ?

 

Not sure where to read this off the board, but the consoles serial number is 022377. So apparently one with good RGB, although I don't think this matters anymore as it should be fixable with a simple mod on any revision

I did notice some very small damage to the traces on a part of the board. Surely this was caused by whatever smashed a hole in the shell. I checked all connections with my multimeter, and they still check out just fine. But the bare copper traces should be sealed off somehow to ensure they don't corrode. What would be the best way to do this?

 

PCB lacquer (you might still be able to get a repair version) or clear nail polish.

Why did you mount the BIOS on a separate board with a crap ton of wires?

[EDIT]
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conformal-coatings/0495240/

 

Actually I think I already own something useful. Got it from a friend many years ago, but never really used it.
https://elektronik-lavpris.dk/p90736/k10-400-loumltlack-sk10-flux-protective-resin-400ml/ (description in English).

The BIOS had to be moved aside, because a NeoBiosMasta probably wouldn't have fit inside the case. I think it would have been too tall.

 

That's for printing your own PCBs. Not suitable for this purpose.

Is the board not pin compatible with the BIOS chip?

[EDIT]
I'm going off the English description, mind you. The elements on the page don't seem to match! The description sounds like two products, the photo is something completely different....

 

Different MVS boards have different BIOS chips, some will take a direct EPROM replacement and some will need either a NeoBiosMasta or do what Bearking has done

 

Is it just a different chip case style? Burn to the correct EPROM style, then.

What EPROM does the board used have originally?

 

Bearking,

Fancy coming over to http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/neo-geo-aes-jap-buzzing-static-sound.63491/ to see if you can give me a hand?

Cheers

 

Let's keep this on topic. Direct him to your repair thread and invite him to participate, by all means. You're way off the topic here, though.

 

stunning work, just beautiful.

 

I didn't burn the BIOS myself. I bought it from Razoola who makes these. I don't know if a suitable replacement is available for the MV-1C.

I agree. It's quite confusing
This is the part that's relevant for the product:

"Protects against corrosion" is what makes me think this might work for sealing the traces.

I don't know anything about AES. This thread is about a consolized MVS I build into the shell of an AES.
I have only borrowed an AES game once to check if the board was working, which it is. Sorry but I can't help you.

 

I don't know the specifics but if it was easy enough to find the correct EPROM style people wouldnt be making NeoBiosMasta's and would just buy the correct chips, also its a surface mount chip which might be why people dont want to remove and replace

 

Output should have 75ohm resistors. If it's too bight with 75 ohm, the voltage divider on the input needs the values changing.

There is no direct programmable replacement for the original chip. Its a smaller version of PSOP.

 

Yeah 75ohm is much too bright but 100ohm looks perfect to me. So just to understand, you suggest changing the 2.2K resistor to a slightly higher value?

 

Change the 6.8k resistor to something higher (or the 2.2k to something lower) and the 100ohm for 75ohm.

This way your impedance is correct for your TV and adjusting the 6.8k wont change that, but will still reduce brightness etc.

If you had a scope, you could make accurate measurements to compute the values. But trial and error and "it looks ok" will work.

Edit:

I have done some calculations and assuming what you get now looks correct with 100ohms, changing the 2.2k resistor for 1.8k and the 100ohm for 75 ohm should give the same result in brightness.

 

Thank you I'll try that

I should really get a scope though... :/

 

Are you using a television or monitor? Some broadcast monitors have the 75 ohm impedance switchable.