Favorite NES Games Only Released in Japan?

That should do beautifully for getting even cuts. I have something like that at home, but it has no measurements on it.

http://www.amazon.com/EK-Success-Co...344923090&sr=8-1&keywords=round+corner+cutter

I found this. I'd have to measure the NES corner, but maybe one of these will do the trick, if the laminate isn't too thick.

After talking to my brother about NES reproductions, I asked him if there were any he was interested in, and he did mention Final Fantasy III. I poked around online, and I found that www.nesreproductions.com makes it, so I know it's possible. I think this would be an awesome Christmas/birthday present for him (he was born pretty close to Christmas). When I looked online, it seems like certain versions of SMB2 (US) are the only compatible donor cartridges. It looks like it has almost all of the same chips, except the battery.

I also noticed that SMB2 is TSROM, while Final Fantasy III is TNROM. After reading this: http://nesdev.com/NES EPROM Conversions.txt

I think the reason why SMB2 is preferred is because the tab doesn't need to be glued in. That sounds a lot better, as a printed tab is probably much more stable than a glued tab. However, the big thing is the battery. I'm guessing the +5V is the positive end of the battery, but what about the negative end of the battery? Anything else I should watch out for?
Thanks!

Edit: I stumbled upon a few more pages. I found a couple relating to the battery:
http://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?t=8374&sid=c3fb9bd080d37eecbb4edcab23a48de2
http://www.nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=34155

However, they both seem to completely contradict each other. More webpages mention that the second link is correct, so I'm assuming that one is right. I don't quite understand the way it's being wired though. I understand the EPROM conversion, but I'm not following the way the battery is wired. Would anyone happen to have a schematic for the battery with the resistors and the diodes and the capacitor please?

I also read that Final Fantasy III does not use PRG. Does that mean I can leave in the old PRG, or should I solder in a blank one?

Thanks!

 

If FF3 didn't use PRG, how would it ever do anything? PRG stands for PROGRAM.

Perhaps a cost saving measure, Nintendo stopped having full pin connectors on most MMC3 boards at some point in time. Also the PCB class that FF3 uses was never used in any game in the US. This is why people hack apart a board to make a rickety FF3 bootleg. There is someone on the nesdev forums (infiniteneslives) that is going to be producing new MMC3 clone boards that will support the configuration for Final Fantasy III. I highly recommend doing that, OR buy an actual FF3 Famicom cartridge and a NES cartridge that contains the Famicom to NES convertor inside it. I strongly discourage the route that requires heavily modifying boards and especially using glue to add a new contact pin. What will happen is it will work for awhile but after many insertions into the system the new pin will have problems. Again, it's a rickety solution. Certainly not something you'd want to give as a present. Use the original board from a Famicom cart (they are cheap, no one wants them) or wait for the new board to be available.

 

Ack, I mean CHR! It would indeed be impossible to have a game with no PRG.

SMB2 already has all of the pins, but no battery of course. Seems a little more stable, but still tricky, and a good point about it being a rickety solution.

Good advice though. The only reason why I would prefer the bootleg route is because I want the English version, which is a hacked ROM. Maybe when that guy comes out with that MMC3 board, I will buy that. Sounds like a better alternative, and SMB2 is an expensive donor cartridge (and I really don't want to tear up a Mario game).

 

mailed a couple repros out

 

Mottzilla can you link that thread for the new repro boards? i'm guessing they won't include any chips on board, which would probably mean more work for anyone not super proficient in desoldering/soldering

 

OMG. Keep up the quality. :applause:

 

I KNOW! Can't wait to put Thexder in its case.

Oh, and play it, I suppose. :triumphant:

 

really wish I had a better label solution still but they come out pretty good. atm I actually print and then use shipping tape as a pseudo gloss, then glue the labels in place. It works, and quality looks fine, I'd just like to have a real glossy sticker solution instead, but not sure it's worth it for me to invest a large print run of diecut ready to go stickers given the scale I operate at.

 

The thread. http://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8808

He will sell the populated PCB with $11 I believe. Populated I believe means, you just have to add PRG and CHR chips. The CPLD mapper chips will be programmed and soldered.

 

Thanks for posting the link!

Sounds like an awesome plan! I'm all in for one if it can support TNROM.

 

not a bad deal if it allows drop in CHR and PRG

 

I modified the existing Recca 'Pure' hack to restore the original style title screen, if someone wants it lmk

 

Yeah, if the board is populated with the other stuff, I'm definitely in for one.

I'm desoldering my first donor cartridge (I'm not going to throw out the old ROMs so I don't actually sacrifice the game), and with a solder sucker, it's going pretty smoothly, except the 1st, 14th, and 28th pins. The solder came out of all of the other joints pretty easily, but on both the CHR and PRG ROM, those three pins will not desolder. Did they use something special on those pins (by the way, these are ordinary 28-pin ROMs)?

 

BTW, derek is being really harsh on himself. The quality of the Thexder cart he made for me is FLAWLESS. I haven't played that game in over 20 years, so, he's on my cool list. I will definitely be buying again.

 

Being on the ends, maybe they used slightly more solder. Are you sure there is still solder there? The chip make be held in by tension. You can try gently pushing up on it to see if it isn't really still bonded in place by solder.

 

Yeah there's a lot of solder. I was able to get it to melt a little bit, but no dice. I brought it to my stepdad, and he was able to get it out. He applied a ton of desoldering braid, and eventually got it out. Those were some nasty pins!

I will probably try the RadioShack desoldering iron. Maybe just having something constantly on there might help.

 

I usually clip the end legs if my pump wont release them, then just braid it when the chips removed

 

couldnt find good hires art but think this came out decent enough, should look ok at label size

 

I'm really impressed with the RadioShack desoldering iron. It took some practice, but now I think I can get each chip out in less than 15 min. in one piece. No stuck pins or anything. I will keep cutting the pins in mind in case I run into anything that puts up a lot of resistance.

Thanks again guys for all the help and the game suggestions. I can't wait for the chip burner to come in the mail (I ordered the Top853 like you suggested).

 

the radioshack pump will probably need regular tip replacement just fyi, as the tip wears down the effectiveness of it's ability to suck solder is gonna drop